There is no risk to brick something when downgrading properly.
So no problem, go ahead and downgrade back to driver 455 and manually flash the base Firmware to reduce the wheel freezes until the full fix is coming with driver 457 in 1-2 weeks.
Thanks Maurice, just want to understand clearly...uninstall 456 via Windows uninstaller, install 455 via the MSI package, open the firmware manager and update as normal, or is it a manual update that warns it's for advanced users...that's the confusing part.
Thanks again for your help and patience with this. It's scary when a statement says "at your own risk" or "Advanced Users only"
Once 456 is uninstalled and 455 installed again you need to check the checkbox to do a manual firmware update, then select base, accept warning, click flash, done.
Its simple, I am doing this a dozen times every week.
CS DD+, steering wheel formula V2.5, steering wheel from GT DD pro. PS5. GT7. Controller 455. When I change the steering wheel while driving, it stops responding. I have to turn the base off and back on! It happens regularly. The steering wheel must not be changed in the game!
The roll back to 455 driver pack and wheel base firmware worked perfectly for my DD Extreme, no disconnects from FFB or buttons...I drove for two hours on PS5 GT7 with no issues, big thanks to Maurice!
@Maurice Ok, I'll give 456 a shot and keep you posted. Pretty sure it's not a hardware issue as the freezes only occurred on the 455 firmware and the DD1 base firmware that shipped with that driver. Since reverting back to 454 and the base firmware included in that driver, I've not had any freezes and have put significant mileage on since downgrading.
This happens in combination with steering wheels that have more LEDs or displays. The CS RS Wheel was also better for me because it doesn't have LEDs for friction, so the buffer couldn't be overloaded. With an F1 Wheel or PBME Wheels, driver 456 is more likely to freeze. The Drive base firmware 455 is recommended until the release of 457.
I keep seeing people downgrade from 456 to 455 and it fixing their wheel issues short term. Any process or special way to do the downgrade process because when I downgrade I cant get my wheel to connect at all, but with 456 I'm able to get it to work for 15-20 minutes.
I bought the bundle DD+ with the F1 wheel last week and I have experienced since the very beginning the following issue,
It comes randomly during the game and what happens is that all the buttons on the wheel stop working, the display and leds freezes, FFB dissappear and so does the back paddles, basically the wheel dies and the only input registered is the steering, the only way for me to get the wheel back to work is to turn off the base, unplug the cable and then turn on again. It happens consisently with a non specific time frame (from 10 to 40 minutes into the game). I only play F123 on the Ps5 so I can only relate to that game and console. I'm running the 456 driver.
Is it only me experiencing this kind of issue or it is a known one?
Everything you said has been brought up as a known issue. It's the subject of many of these discussions, including the most recent one here. It's a known issue. Some have found temporary relief reverting to 455 and the firmware that came with it. The next driver, 457, and its associated firmware are supposed to fix it.
Notice that you're running 456. That's a release candidate, and not an official driver package. RCs tend to have bugs. Unless you enjoy testing, or have a specific issue you're trying to fix, stay away from them in the future.
Read my conversation above with Maurice (thread 15) and follow the directions he gave me and that should give you a temp fix until driver package 457 becomes available.
ID like to share my experience, after reading here since the released of 456. Issue cause LED porn if you have led on steering wheel. also i noticve when vibration is on.. i might be wrong but that's what i noticed. \
Bought a CS DD+ played coupled of days on PS5 with no issues, over the weekend I updated firmware to 455. Haven't touched firmware 456 yet.
I got a problem with tuning menu after updating firmware. First of all in advanced tuning menu on the wheel there is no option to change NDP, NFR, NIN and INT. The only values I can change are SEN, FFB, FF, FEI, FOR, SPR, DPR, BLI, SHO, BRF.
So I opened the Fanatec Panel on PC again to change it from the app directly. I was able to change NFR, NIN and INT, however everytime I move NDP it always defaults to 50 doesn't matter which Setup 1-5 I try to change. It's like every other tuning option saves but NDP does not.
Before updating the firmware I was able to change NDP from the wheel directly.
Bonjour je ne comprend pas. mon volant ne se met pas a jour que ca soit avec la 4.55 ou 456 c'est pareil, la mise a jours tourne en boucle et affiche firmeware 0 pour le volant. es que ce probleme est pris en compte?
Please post in English according to the forum rules.
As you can read in the first post, it is a known Firmware issue that steering wheels get reported as v0 on CSL DD and GT DD Pro. It is just a visual glitch, just ignore it.
SHO is only available on steering wheels which have vibration motors, the McLaren does not have those, so this setting is not available.
BLI and BRF are only available on Load Cell Pedals when they are connected to the Base directly. I assume you have them connected via USB, therefore the settings are not available for you as well.
BRF is necessary when pedal calibration is not possible or when it's difficult to do. On the PC, you can calibrate the pedals in the Fanatec Control Panel when they're hooked up through USB. If you do that, you won't need BRF. Just calibrate for the amount of force you'll be using in-game.
BRF is helpful, however, if you want different brake force for different games or cars. If that's what you're going for, definitely hook it up to the wheelbase and use it that way.
Is there a way I can find out the latest driver version that had an update to the FW of the CSL Elite V2 pedals? Without hooking my pedals up to PC? It's a hassle and I don't want to do it right now if there's no updates for those pedals.
My load cell seems very very stiff. Anything over 40% is basically impossible to get full travel, and I end up leaving it at 15 to 20. Sometimes 20% is too stiff and 15% too weak. But every once in while I noticed that those setting were too weak and I had to bump it up to 50% or more to get same resistance. That was with GT DD Pro and GT DD Extreme with pedals hooked up to wheelbases.
Comments
There is no risk to brick something when downgrading properly.
So no problem, go ahead and downgrade back to driver 455 and manually flash the base Firmware to reduce the wheel freezes until the full fix is coming with driver 457 in 1-2 weeks.
Thanks Maurice, just want to understand clearly...uninstall 456 via Windows uninstaller, install 455 via the MSI package, open the firmware manager and update as normal, or is it a manual update that warns it's for advanced users...that's the confusing part.
Thanks again for your help and patience with this. It's scary when a statement says "at your own risk" or "Advanced Users only"
-TonyBee
Once 456 is uninstalled and 455 installed again you need to check the checkbox to do a manual firmware update, then select base, accept warning, click flash, done.
Its simple, I am doing this a dozen times every week.
Just do the manual firmware update on the wheel base only or include the WQR and Wheel?
Wheel Base is enough.
All done! Again many thanks
CS DD+, steering wheel formula V2.5, steering wheel from GT DD pro. PS5. GT7. Controller 455. When I change the steering wheel while driving, it stops responding. I have to turn the base off and back on! It happens regularly. The steering wheel must not be changed in the game!
The roll back to 455 driver pack and wheel base firmware worked perfectly for my DD Extreme, no disconnects from FFB or buttons...I drove for two hours on PS5 GT7 with no issues, big thanks to Maurice!
Now I will wait on 457 😉
@Maurice Ok, I'll give 456 a shot and keep you posted. Pretty sure it's not a hardware issue as the freezes only occurred on the 455 firmware and the DD1 base firmware that shipped with that driver. Since reverting back to 454 and the base firmware included in that driver, I've not had any freezes and have put significant mileage on since downgrading.
No issues so far with 456 and CS DD+/ CS RS Wheel/GT7.
Can only play on weekends but during 3-4 hour sessions I had no freezes or disconnects.
@sc
This happens in combination with steering wheels that have more LEDs or displays. The CS RS Wheel was also better for me because it doesn't have LEDs for friction, so the buffer couldn't be overloaded. With an F1 Wheel or PBME Wheels, driver 456 is more likely to freeze. The Drive base firmware 455 is recommended until the release of 457.
I keep seeing people downgrade from 456 to 455 and it fixing their wheel issues short term. Any process or special way to do the downgrade process because when I downgrade I cant get my wheel to connect at all, but with 456 I'm able to get it to work for 15-20 minutes.
Good evening everyone,
I bought the bundle DD+ with the F1 wheel last week and I have experienced since the very beginning the following issue,
It comes randomly during the game and what happens is that all the buttons on the wheel stop working, the display and leds freezes, FFB dissappear and so does the back paddles, basically the wheel dies and the only input registered is the steering, the only way for me to get the wheel back to work is to turn off the base, unplug the cable and then turn on again. It happens consisently with a non specific time frame (from 10 to 40 minutes into the game). I only play F123 on the Ps5 so I can only relate to that game and console. I'm running the 456 driver.
Is it only me experiencing this kind of issue or it is a known one?
How can fix this issue?
Any help will be much appreciated,
Umberto
@Umberto
Everything you said has been brought up as a known issue. It's the subject of many of these discussions, including the most recent one here. It's a known issue. Some have found temporary relief reverting to 455 and the firmware that came with it. The next driver, 457, and its associated firmware are supposed to fix it.
Notice that you're running 456. That's a release candidate, and not an official driver package. RCs tend to have bugs. Unless you enjoy testing, or have a specific issue you're trying to fix, stay away from them in the future.
Cooper Sieb,
Read my conversation above with Maurice (thread 15) and follow the directions he gave me and that should give you a temp fix until driver package 457 becomes available.
ID like to share my experience, after reading here since the released of 456. Issue cause LED porn if you have led on steering wheel. also i noticve when vibration is on.. i might be wrong but that's what i noticed. \
Hi all
Bought a CS DD+ played coupled of days on PS5 with no issues, over the weekend I updated firmware to 455. Haven't touched firmware 456 yet.
I got a problem with tuning menu after updating firmware. First of all in advanced tuning menu on the wheel there is no option to change NDP, NFR, NIN and INT. The only values I can change are SEN, FFB, FF, FEI, FOR, SPR, DPR, BLI, SHO, BRF.
So I opened the Fanatec Panel on PC again to change it from the app directly. I was able to change NFR, NIN and INT, however everytime I move NDP it always defaults to 50 doesn't matter which Setup 1-5 I try to change. It's like every other tuning option saves but NDP does not.
Before updating the firmware I was able to change NDP from the wheel directly.
Anyone have similar issue?
Just restart the base and all settings are available again.
It's normal that after a QR update those settings are missing and only come back again after a base restart.
Bonjour je ne comprend pas. mon volant ne se met pas a jour que ca soit avec la 4.55 ou 456 c'est pareil, la mise a jours tourne en boucle et affiche firmeware 0 pour le volant. es que ce probleme est pris en compte?
Volant ClubSport Steering Wheel RS
ce qui est ecrit:
Volant ClubSport Steering Wheel RS
Firmware V4 is available!
et a coté en vert UPDATE.
et ca tourne en rond tout le temps.
je n'arrive pas a mettre une image
Please post in English according to the forum rules.
As you can read in the first post, it is a known Firmware issue that steering wheels get reported as v0 on CSL DD and GT DD Pro. It is just a visual glitch, just ignore it.
How I can find BLI, SHO, BRF in the wheel settings? I play on PC, I'm 455 drivers DD+, V3's and Mclaren wheel
SHO is only available on steering wheels which have vibration motors, the McLaren does not have those, so this setting is not available.
BLI and BRF are only available on Load Cell Pedals when they are connected to the Base directly. I assume you have them connected via USB, therefore the settings are not available for you as well.
Thank You for Your response, correct V3's are connected to the PC, I need to try connect them to the base then :)
BRF is necessary when pedal calibration is not possible or when it's difficult to do. On the PC, you can calibrate the pedals in the Fanatec Control Panel when they're hooked up through USB. If you do that, you won't need BRF. Just calibrate for the amount of force you'll be using in-game.
BRF is helpful, however, if you want different brake force for different games or cars. If that's what you're going for, definitely hook it up to the wheelbase and use it that way.
BRF is useful for a lot of more things like different Brake force levels depending on the used car, eg if the car uses ABS or not etc.
It's an essential setting imo and therefore the preferred way to connect the pedals is always directly to the base to get the BRF setting.
hank you for your reply. But it's disturbing to see this. I suppose the new firmware will solve this problem? THANKS.
Not the one included in 457 as it will most likely be the same firmware as in 456 as 457 only should implement new CS DD FW with the freeze fix.
Maybe the one included in 458.
Is there a way I can find out the latest driver version that had an update to the FW of the CSL Elite V2 pedals? Without hooking my pedals up to PC? It's a hassle and I don't want to do it right now if there's no updates for those pedals.
My load cell seems very very stiff. Anything over 40% is basically impossible to get full travel, and I end up leaving it at 15 to 20. Sometimes 20% is too stiff and 15% too weak. But every once in while I noticed that those setting were too weak and I had to bump it up to 50% or more to get same resistance. That was with GT DD Pro and GT DD Extreme with pedals hooked up to wheelbases.