Aaah man… I noticed yesterday that one pin was just a little lower then the rest of the other 8 pins on the wheel side… so both my wheels have a shorter pin… which means that like you said, poor connection. I was not sure of the shorter pin was normal or not but saw that both wheels had 1 shorter pin… so all pins must be the same length then, correct?
But would that one pin cause the base to completely disconnect from the PC and not be discovered by FanaLab?? It sounds like more than just a poor pin connection to only 1 pin, no?
Thanks again for all your help, it’s greatly appreciated!!
So I tried 455 and I'm still having the same problem with missing shifts. I did not have any problems before updating on the 29th, I've only had my Formula V2.5 for a couple of months. The base is a 8nm CSL DD if that matters.
edit:
I think I got it solved for now, I'm still using 455 but I updated the wheel firmware back to 0.3.5.0. and it seems to have gone away, so I think that was the culprit. It would happen once every few laps, usually on upshifts. This was in iRacing btw, I haven't tried any other games yet.
The purpose of the shorter pin is to connect last or after all other pins are already connected. This is called a lagging electrical circuit. It means the steering wheel is only supplied with electricity after the circuit is closed.
i'm speaking about the manual firmware update checkbox at the top of the Fanatec Firmware Manager. In the previous drivers installation like 455/456/457 i didn't check that, but the button on the right side was saying just "firmware update".
I would like just a confirm about the procedure, as i'm trying to understand if i'm having problems whit my device
You never have to use the manual firmware update, only when a separate firmware file is available for explicit testing. Which is not the case here. Just press the green update button in the Firmware Manager to update the firmwares fully automatically.
Ich verstehe das gerade nicht habe die Version 462 drauf die wurde auch als Update durchgeführt. Jetzt sehe ich gerade das es eine Version 463 gibt sind die Versionen identisch? Da ich seit dem letzten Update schalt Aussetzer habe würde ich gern wissen was ich jetzt tun soll
First, please post in English according to the forum rules.
Second, you can see the Changelog in the first post where you see that only a new CS DD Base Firmware is included in 463 which is only important for the Bentley GT3 wheel. Nothing else is fixed.
If you have shift issues since 462 then you should downgrade the firmware back to the ones of 455.
That error message can happen from time to time for an unknown reason. Just restart the base and it should be fine again. If it's still happening multiple times in a row and your base refuses to start properly ever again then your WQR Module is dead and you need to contact the support
OK, thanks since I don't know what version i had before, i downloaded the 452 Version ( not installed yet) i found it on the fanatec website. If you have a 455 Version would you send it to me?FYI it would be the first update I made after purchasing it September
You have to install driver 455 with old firmware then you can do manual install of old firmware, with driver 462 the only thing you can do is reinstall the last firmware so you have to install also old driver
Tim, sorry for introducing some misunderstanding. I confused things. Pins are on the wheel side (not inside the shaft). And yes, one pin is always a little shorter but even visually it is clear it would connect with its corresponding socket in the shaft. Below are pics of what my two hubs look like. Notice the shorter pin on the 4th hour.
I always thought it is some kind of a anti-static protection but what Stephen Gilbert wrote actually makes more sense to me :)
If a wheel starts playing (dis)connection problems it is a good idea to inspect the pins. Maybe something got bet or pushed when the wheel was misfitted somehow. But this is not your case.
What I should have written correctly is to inspect the metal sockets that you can see right beneath the plastic cover with holes inside the shaft. This is what mine looks like and what someone posted on the forum in a different topic:
Btw, notice the somewhat empty hole on 8th hour. This is where the shorter pin goes into I think, but it seems this is what it is supposed to look like. More important, however are the metal tubular sockets. They should be fairly well aligned with the plastic holes and the tubes (they are cut and therefore can stretch open a tiny bit making the pins connect easier) should look fairly tight. Inspect them closely.
Also the video Hristo Goshev posted is another thing you should look into.
I just tested and with version 455 I have the same switching failures. I'm now switching to 452, which is probably the delivery state. What surprises me is that I still see the same thing in the wheel display as in version 462
Comments
Aaah man… I noticed yesterday that one pin was just a little lower then the rest of the other 8 pins on the wheel side… so both my wheels have a shorter pin… which means that like you said, poor connection. I was not sure of the shorter pin was normal or not but saw that both wheels had 1 shorter pin… so all pins must be the same length then, correct?
But would that one pin cause the base to completely disconnect from the PC and not be discovered by FanaLab?? It sounds like more than just a poor pin connection to only 1 pin, no?
Thanks again for all your help, it’s greatly appreciated!!
So I tried 455 and I'm still having the same problem with missing shifts.I did not have any problems before updating on the 29th, I've only had my Formula V2.5 for a couple of months. The base is a 8nm CSL DD if that matters.edit:
I think I got it solved for now, I'm still using 455 but I updated the wheel firmware back to 0.3.5.0. and it seems to have gone away, so I think that was the culprit. It would happen once every few laps, usually on upshifts. This was in iRacing btw, I haven't tried any other games yet.
Hallo würdest du bitte genau beschreiben wie du vorgegängee
Hallo ,can you exactly explain what yuo are doing to repair your Wheel base .Thanks in Advance
The purpose of the shorter pin is to connect last or after all other pins are already connected. This is called a lagging electrical circuit. It means the steering wheel is only supplied with electricity after the circuit is closed.
Have you tried this?
Hello, i've downloaded the driver 463 but i need to manually install it, i would like to know if this procedure is the correct one.
Thanks in advance
You always have to manually install a driver, it can not install itself...
i'm speaking about the manual firmware update checkbox at the top of the Fanatec Firmware Manager. In the previous drivers installation like 455/456/457 i didn't check that, but the button on the right side was saying just "firmware update".
I would like just a confirm about the procedure, as i'm trying to understand if i'm having problems whit my device
You never have to use the manual firmware update, only when a separate firmware file is available for explicit testing. Which is not the case here. Just press the green update button in the Firmware Manager to update the firmwares fully automatically.
Hello, I too have been having problems since the last update, how can I go back to the previous version? clubsport v2.5x
Since I don't know which version was on it before, it would be helpful to let me know. The wheel was bought at the beginning of September
Ich verstehe das gerade nicht habe die Version 462 drauf die wurde auch als Update durchgeführt. Jetzt sehe ich gerade das es eine Version 463 gibt sind die Versionen identisch? Da ich seit dem letzten Update schalt Aussetzer habe würde ich gern wissen was ich jetzt tun soll
First, please post in English according to the forum rules.
Second, you can see the Changelog in the first post where you see that only a new CS DD Base Firmware is included in 463 which is only important for the Bentley GT3 wheel. Nothing else is fixed.
If you have shift issues since 462 then you should downgrade the firmware back to the ones of 455.
What means that
That error message can happen from time to time for an unknown reason. Just restart the base and it should be fine again. If it's still happening multiple times in a row and your base refuses to start properly ever again then your WQR Module is dead and you need to contact the support
So i think is dead ,Support not response .It was in August 2024 in Repair and i must pay160€ for it and now always broken .My last Fanatec product
OK, thanks since I don't know what version i had before, i downloaded the 452 Version ( not installed yet) i found it on the fanatec website. If you have a 455 Version would you send it to me?FYI it would be the first update I made after purchasing it September
You can download driver 455 from here:
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/29180/fanatec-driver-455-prev-release-for-csl-cs-and-podium-all-wheels/p1
Ok thx How do I downgrade? via manual and then flash to 455?
sorry for all the questions, I don't want to do it right🫣
Downgrade over manual it's not working i have no Downgrade Button
You have to install driver 455 with old firmware then you can do manual install of old firmware, with driver 462 the only thing you can do is reinstall the last firmware so you have to install also old driver
Ok and how can I do it ? Delete the fanatec Firmware Manager? And install the 455 driver?
When i go to the manual Firmware Update it com's this
Also how can i do it?
Just by the way, I think it's great that I'm being helped, but it's not exactly user-friendly and very complicadet for the end customer
Tim, sorry for introducing some misunderstanding. I confused things. Pins are on the wheel side (not inside the shaft). And yes, one pin is always a little shorter but even visually it is clear it would connect with its corresponding socket in the shaft. Below are pics of what my two hubs look like. Notice the shorter pin on the 4th hour.
I always thought it is some kind of a anti-static protection but what Stephen Gilbert wrote actually makes more sense to me :)
If a wheel starts playing (dis)connection problems it is a good idea to inspect the pins. Maybe something got bet or pushed when the wheel was misfitted somehow. But this is not your case.
What I should have written correctly is to inspect the metal sockets that you can see right beneath the plastic cover with holes inside the shaft. This is what mine looks like and what someone posted on the forum in a different topic:
Btw, notice the somewhat empty hole on 8th hour. This is where the shorter pin goes into I think, but it seems this is what it is supposed to look like. More important, however are the metal tubular sockets. They should be fairly well aligned with the plastic holes and the tubes (they are cut and therefore can stretch open a tiny bit making the pins connect easier) should look fairly tight. Inspect them closely.
Also the video Hristo Goshev posted is another thing you should look into.
I have It thx
I just tested and with version 455 I have the same switching failures. I'm now switching to 452, which is probably the delivery state. What surprises me is that I still see the same thing in the wheel display as in version 462