If you pull on one pedal and keep it pulled to the end, you can set a specific bite point with D-Pad down. The number on the display will show the percantage which will be hold when you release one pedal completely. You can have the driver open at the same time to see the clutch input live, then its easier to understand.
Here is the section from the manual:
What I usually do to calibrate it for a car is I keep one paddle pressed so the clutch is 100%, then I put in first gear and give it full throttle. Then I reduce the value with d-pad down until the car starts rolling. After that I re-test if the car starts properly with the set bite point, if there is wheel spin I increase, if it stalls or I don't get power down I decrease the value.
I now understand your issue and could reproduce it, we'll fix it in a future version.
Normally right now it should work this way
Pull first paddle fully (clutch is completely engaged)
Pull second paddle in addtion to the value shown on the display you want
Release first paddle completely, clutch input will stay on the value oft he second paddle
However right now the Formula V2 doesn't show this on the display, the P DD display and BME however do. So this is an issue of the Formula V2 wheel firmware.
Did all the usual stuff ( customer for 6 years now)
Firmware update started flached it....got message remove wheel....... bang
Fan started running lIke a airconditioning (Dd 2 Secound batch). Turned off my wheel and restarted my pc ( screen resolution had changed) could not even use my mouse anymore.
Disconnect my wheel from pc and restarted, all normal again.
Tried several software updates , 339 seamed to work fan stopped and i was able to flash motor and firmware update wheels and so on.
So gave it another try for 442 an d yes it worked updated all.
Only the strange thing was the settings of my screen changed again, mouse not working either.
Tried a few times......when i start my pc with base turned on screen resolution changes.
I use W10 , nvidia 2080ti.
Fanalab ( new one does not work, used the hot fix replaced xml but not working i use the older one again.
Tested for half hour and like the software like the sand is dusted out of my dd2 it is more responsive.
Have to test some more ( updating used my whole day off).
May I ask.. Why are you using this old "simplified" mode for the Clutch Bite Point (CBP) instead of the new "Advanced" mode?
In the Advanced mode you can directly save the CBP value to the Setup you currently use and you can even adjust the CBP value in the Driver UI and in FanaLab and even save that value to a FanaLab profile so you could save a specific CBP value fine-tuned for the specific car you are actually driving.
In the old "simplified" mode you have to be very precise to get the exact CBP value you want and it can easily happen that at a race start you wanted to have a CBP of for example 33 but you end up at 38 and then you lose the start...
All this can be fixed by using the "Advanced" mode which Marcel explained earlier and the Advanced Mode is working fine without any issue.
So my advise is: give the Advanced mode a try and never look back at this old simplified mode. IMHO the simplified mode should even be completely removed as that mode doesnt make much sense as its so unprecise in my eyes anyway...
Can you consistently update the firmware in a certain driver version?
What I mean is: let's say the driver version that works is 434. If you update to 439, 440 or 442 it won't work. Are you able to update your wheel every time you come back to driver 434?
PS DD1 F1 & CSP V3 here. Upgraded drivers (and fanalab) from 440 to these, 442. Did no removing of drivers, just inplace driver upgrade, reboot, after which firmware upgraded just fine for everything. Needed linked hotfix for new fanalab version to start.
Feedback in some ways seemed interesting/better. Unfortunately, even if better, it was different then i was used to.. it was bad idea to upgrade prior race event :). But i'll try to get used to, new ffb seemed more detailed/informative.
Things to note - this is beta, or official drivers? If later, then i don't see these listed in latest driver page on website where latest - still 439.
Major annoyance in these drivers - in ACC i frequently had like for half a minute "stuck" wheel vibration. Ended up switching off SHO/Wheel Vibration Motor, to not mess feedback info during race. No clue if this is issue of fanalab (that supposedly is one that passes effects for this wheel rumble?), or steering wheel's firmware.
Minor - seemed weird, that even with enabled CSP V3 manual mode, no calibratable maximum of brake maximum, just BRF instead, like if disabled manual mode.
The stucking wheel vibrations are a FanaLab related issue.
So far this got reproduced but only for the Rev Limiter Vibrations and only for the Steering Wheel, on the pedals it's fine. The issue is under investigation.
The other minor issue is not an issue but an intended change. Load Cell Brakes should only be controlled by the BRF value when they are connected to the Wheel Base. A manual calibration of a Max value is redundant for those Pedals as the Max pressure should only be adjusted with BRF.
Replacated, under investigation .. sounds hopeful. I kind of liked/was used to that overrev feedback, if it gets fixed, nice thing to have.
BTW, any gains on not having minimum-maximum for throttle (and clutch) and minimum for brakes with disabled CSP V3 manual mode? Imho they should be very useful there aswell. Or at least disabled manual mode imho should honor those limits set in enabled manual mode, as such calibration will be always more precise then any autocalibration can be.
Non related suggestion - as in many cases new drivers need also newer fanalab version .. will it be bad idea to include in one driver package also fanalab? Just checkbox on installer, if user wants or not to upgrade with included fanalab aswell? Imho it should simplify a bit things, when compatible version always comes together. And adding in installer UI checkbox for fanalab will do for those, that prefer not to install fanalab at all, or keep some specific version already installed.
Such a checkbox for an optional FanaLab installation within the driver installer is actually considered and might come at some point in the future, yes.
Auto calibration cant be changed to get the calibrated data from the manual mode, no. So yes, it's always best to use the manual mode, however the Auto calibration is also improved with the latest firmware and will be further improved in the next firmware to not cause ghost Inputs anymore so it's a solid baseline.
It's really annoying that Fanatec always turns firmware flushing into a test of courage. Fortunately, I've never had any problems yet, but I'm always uncomfortable when flushing firmware. I had hoped that this dare would be a thing of the past with the newly written firmware.
Flashing firmware always is slightly risky endevour, in many other products but fanatec's and even outside simracing gear, and can "brick" other stuff aswell, like smartphones, cars and so on. I guess mostly due various makers reusing various controllers/chips whose makers didn't care much to make process of upgrading fimware in them safe/with safeguards/redundancy.
Unfortunately firmware on fanatec simracing gear attributes a lot to user experience (i.e. how feedback works) and thus despite risks to gain those new improvements/new features/bugfixes, one needs to upgrade FW frequently enough.
My guess, only things that can be done for current products, is to analyze all possible scenarios, when flashing new firmware went wrong, and try to improve process to lessen possibility of such. For example - if there weren't local FW images but downloaded off the internet, it may fail due network issues during upgrade. As there can be some interruptions due heavy load by other apps, installer might request some higher RT priority or closing other apps first or running on boot. There might be some corruptions, in images, so some checksumming might be needed. There is little Fanatec can do on quality of usb cables/connections (unless there is some test that can be performed prior flashing to ensure reliable transfer for following flashing?)
In ideal scenario there probably would be something with bits like first upload new firmware onto product, check it's validity (checksum) and then burn it within product (wheelbase/steering wheel/pedals) by internal code, with no external dependancies except initial upload of new image. That should strike out possibility of something going wrong during flashing on PC side (though no .. there might still be external dependancy. - power to product. so maybe some small battery, like in RAID cards or motherboards, just enough to last through flashing and powering only what's needed for flashing?). Second bit that may help - something like "dual bios" for motherboards, that allows to revert to old image via some switch, instead of current "set hardware in specific flashing mode;erase old image;flash new image". But both "localized flashing", or "dual bios", probably will require complete circuitry redesign and possible only in some potential future products, so imho not implementable in current products, due not being software only change.
Marcel, what do you know about the grindy scratchy feeling that occurs in the gt dd pro wheelbase? I have replaced 3 wheelbases now and they all have a different version of the same problem. The vibrations and scratchy feel can be felt through the wheel. My first base started smooth Then vibrations started after a few minutes lasted about 20 minutes then finally subsided. Second base had an immediate scratchy feel which was kind of resolved with test motor firmware 1.0.2.3 that I was sent by fanatec support team but was still intermittent. Now my third wheel is perfect on original motor firmware 1.0.2.2 for the first hour before getting the grindy scratchy feel. I replicated this twice and in both cases the wheelbase was warm to the touch. I haven’t tried Motor Firmware 1.0.2.3 yet so don’t know the effect of this firmware on the new wheel.
my question is since 1.0.2.3 motor firmware seems to do „something“ with this scratchy, vibration feel, is this something you are lookinginto? Since it seems quite a few people have this issue with their dd pro wheelbases.
Hello Maurice / Marcel and all Fanatec base owners, this is my first Post. My name is Marcos, and I live in Argentina. After a lot of effort I was able to finish my rig with a DD1 and I am very satisfied, I had to bring it from the USA because it is not possible to buy it here. I have had the DD1 base for about 1 year and a half and I always wanted to have my DD1 updated with this long-awaited driver and firmware for all of us. I tell you that I never update my drivers and firmware for fear of errors, if you live in the USA or Europe and have a problem, it is cumbersome to send these bases, but imagine from Argentina, it will be enormous suffering and expense. I am clear that when doing this type of update one always runs some risk, I am willing to take it because I want to get the most out of my base. For this, I would like you to tell me the appropriate procedure and recommended by fanatec as of today, please. I believe that many things have changed recently and I would like to minimize the risks in this process. I have read some recommendations from users, (some uninstall drivers, others do not), but I would like to have the step by step and know the correct order of all these processes please. If this was already reported in another post I sincerely apologize. A hug to all the members of the forum. Thank you!
Just tried to update to 442 on my Podium F1 and Inverted V3 pedals. After the update my podium button module doesn't turn on anymore. Also even though it says that I have updated my v3 pedals, every time I plug it back in to check it says it needs to be updated to 1.34. Any idea what's going on?
This growth rate of this thread clearly shows the importance of alpha/beta testing on a wide variety of hardware/software combinations before releasing to avoid a ton of headaches for customers and Fanatec.
I’m having the same exact issue but while playing GT7 on the ps5. Did not have the problem with driver 439. I’m not sure how to downgrade as I’ve updated all my wheel, button module and v3 pedals. I have to restart the base in order to get it to work again.
Fanatec support sent it to me as a test firmware to resolve the rough feedback and vibration issue that plagues the GT DD PRO wheelbases. This firmware works to some degree in calming the wheelbase but I still found an intermittent behavior with this firmware installed.
Comments
If you pull on one pedal and keep it pulled to the end, you can set a specific bite point with D-Pad down. The number on the display will show the percantage which will be hold when you release one pedal completely. You can have the driver open at the same time to see the clutch input live, then its easier to understand.
Here is the section from the manual:
What I usually do to calibrate it for a car is I keep one paddle pressed so the clutch is 100%, then I put in first gear and give it full throttle. Then I reduce the value with d-pad down until the car starts rolling. After that I re-test if the car starts properly with the set bite point, if there is wheel spin I increase, if it stalls or I don't get power down I decrease the value.
I now understand your issue and could reproduce it, we'll fix it in a future version.
Normally right now it should work this way
However right now the Formula V2 doesn't show this on the display, the P DD display and BME however do. So this is an issue of the Formula V2 wheel firmware.
Could you put the FWPedalsUpdater.exe here again individually.
This doesn't work for me...
So today was a rollercoaster......
I tried to install the new drivers 442
I had 440.
Did all the usual stuff ( customer for 6 years now)
Firmware update started flached it....got message remove wheel....... bang
Fan started running lIke a airconditioning (Dd 2 Secound batch). Turned off my wheel and restarted my pc ( screen resolution had changed) could not even use my mouse anymore.
Disconnect my wheel from pc and restarted, all normal again.
Tried several software updates , 339 seamed to work fan stopped and i was able to flash motor and firmware update wheels and so on.
So gave it another try for 442 an d yes it worked updated all.
Only the strange thing was the settings of my screen changed again, mouse not working either.
Tried a few times......when i start my pc with base turned on screen resolution changes.
I use W10 , nvidia 2080ti.
Fanalab ( new one does not work, used the hot fix replaced xml but not working i use the older one again.
Tested for half hour and like the software like the sand is dusted out of my dd2 it is more responsive.
Have to test some more ( updating used my whole day off).
I hope there comes a solution for fanalab,.
Next time i concider updating.
Yes affirm, thats exactly my issue. I cannot see the preset value BEFORE releasing the fully pressed pedal
May I ask.. Why are you using this old "simplified" mode for the Clutch Bite Point (CBP) instead of the new "Advanced" mode?
In the Advanced mode you can directly save the CBP value to the Setup you currently use and you can even adjust the CBP value in the Driver UI and in FanaLab and even save that value to a FanaLab profile so you could save a specific CBP value fine-tuned for the specific car you are actually driving.
In the old "simplified" mode you have to be very precise to get the exact CBP value you want and it can easily happen that at a race start you wanted to have a CBP of for example 33 but you end up at 38 and then you lose the start...
All this can be fixed by using the "Advanced" mode which Marcel explained earlier and the Advanced Mode is working fine without any issue.
So my advise is: give the Advanced mode a try and never look back at this old simplified mode. IMHO the simplified mode should even be completely removed as that mode doesnt make much sense as its so unprecise in my eyes anyway...
Thank you very much Marcel !
I always have the problem with different driver versions that the Formula V2 steering wheel cannot be updated.
With version 442 it doesn't work again! If some drivers work, is it really a hardware issue?
Can you consistently update the firmware in a certain driver version?
What I mean is: let's say the driver version that works is 434. If you update to 439, 440 or 442 it won't work. Are you able to update your wheel every time you come back to driver 434?
I honestly didnt know about advanced mode for the last 3 years :D I may give it a try though
PS DD1 F1 & CSP V3 here. Upgraded drivers (and fanalab) from 440 to these, 442. Did no removing of drivers, just inplace driver upgrade, reboot, after which firmware upgraded just fine for everything. Needed linked hotfix for new fanalab version to start.
Feedback in some ways seemed interesting/better. Unfortunately, even if better, it was different then i was used to.. it was bad idea to upgrade prior race event :). But i'll try to get used to, new ffb seemed more detailed/informative.
Things to note - this is beta, or official drivers? If later, then i don't see these listed in latest driver page on website where latest - still 439.
Major annoyance in these drivers - in ACC i frequently had like for half a minute "stuck" wheel vibration. Ended up switching off SHO/Wheel Vibration Motor, to not mess feedback info during race. No clue if this is issue of fanalab (that supposedly is one that passes effects for this wheel rumble?), or steering wheel's firmware.
Minor - seemed weird, that even with enabled CSP V3 manual mode, no calibratable maximum of brake maximum, just BRF instead, like if disabled manual mode.
The stucking wheel vibrations are a FanaLab related issue.
So far this got reproduced but only for the Rev Limiter Vibrations and only for the Steering Wheel, on the pedals it's fine. The issue is under investigation.
The other minor issue is not an issue but an intended change. Load Cell Brakes should only be controlled by the BRF value when they are connected to the Wheel Base. A manual calibration of a Max value is redundant for those Pedals as the Max pressure should only be adjusted with BRF.
Since it seems to be confirmed that the dd1/dd2 changes are working well, .... when will we have a beta with the csldd changes? 😁
Thanks!
Replacated, under investigation .. sounds hopeful. I kind of liked/was used to that overrev feedback, if it gets fixed, nice thing to have.
BTW, any gains on not having minimum-maximum for throttle (and clutch) and minimum for brakes with disabled CSP V3 manual mode? Imho they should be very useful there aswell. Or at least disabled manual mode imho should honor those limits set in enabled manual mode, as such calibration will be always more precise then any autocalibration can be.
Non related suggestion - as in many cases new drivers need also newer fanalab version .. will it be bad idea to include in one driver package also fanalab? Just checkbox on installer, if user wants or not to upgrade with included fanalab aswell? Imho it should simplify a bit things, when compatible version always comes together. And adding in installer UI checkbox for fanalab will do for those, that prefer not to install fanalab at all, or keep some specific version already installed.
Such a checkbox for an optional FanaLab installation within the driver installer is actually considered and might come at some point in the future, yes.
Auto calibration cant be changed to get the calibrated data from the manual mode, no. So yes, it's always best to use the manual mode, however the Auto calibration is also improved with the latest firmware and will be further improved in the next firmware to not cause ghost Inputs anymore so it's a solid baseline.
It's really annoying that Fanatec always turns firmware flushing into a test of courage. Fortunately, I've never had any problems yet, but I'm always uncomfortable when flushing firmware. I had hoped that this dare would be a thing of the past with the newly written firmware.
Flashing firmware always is slightly risky endevour, in many other products but fanatec's and even outside simracing gear, and can "brick" other stuff aswell, like smartphones, cars and so on. I guess mostly due various makers reusing various controllers/chips whose makers didn't care much to make process of upgrading fimware in them safe/with safeguards/redundancy.
Unfortunately firmware on fanatec simracing gear attributes a lot to user experience (i.e. how feedback works) and thus despite risks to gain those new improvements/new features/bugfixes, one needs to upgrade FW frequently enough.
My guess, only things that can be done for current products, is to analyze all possible scenarios, when flashing new firmware went wrong, and try to improve process to lessen possibility of such. For example - if there weren't local FW images but downloaded off the internet, it may fail due network issues during upgrade. As there can be some interruptions due heavy load by other apps, installer might request some higher RT priority or closing other apps first or running on boot. There might be some corruptions, in images, so some checksumming might be needed. There is little Fanatec can do on quality of usb cables/connections (unless there is some test that can be performed prior flashing to ensure reliable transfer for following flashing?)
In ideal scenario there probably would be something with bits like first upload new firmware onto product, check it's validity (checksum) and then burn it within product (wheelbase/steering wheel/pedals) by internal code, with no external dependancies except initial upload of new image. That should strike out possibility of something going wrong during flashing on PC side (though no .. there might still be external dependancy. - power to product. so maybe some small battery, like in RAID cards or motherboards, just enough to last through flashing and powering only what's needed for flashing?). Second bit that may help - something like "dual bios" for motherboards, that allows to revert to old image via some switch, instead of current "set hardware in specific flashing mode;erase old image;flash new image". But both "localized flashing", or "dual bios", probably will require complete circuitry redesign and possible only in some potential future products, so imho not implementable in current products, due not being software only change.
Marcel, what do you know about the grindy scratchy feeling that occurs in the gt dd pro wheelbase? I have replaced 3 wheelbases now and they all have a different version of the same problem. The vibrations and scratchy feel can be felt through the wheel. My first base started smooth Then vibrations started after a few minutes lasted about 20 minutes then finally subsided. Second base had an immediate scratchy feel which was kind of resolved with test motor firmware 1.0.2.3 that I was sent by fanatec support team but was still intermittent. Now my third wheel is perfect on original motor firmware 1.0.2.2 for the first hour before getting the grindy scratchy feel. I replicated this twice and in both cases the wheelbase was warm to the touch. I haven’t tried Motor Firmware 1.0.2.3 yet so don’t know the effect of this firmware on the new wheel.
my question is since 1.0.2.3 motor firmware seems to do „something“ with this scratchy, vibration feel, is this something you are lookinginto? Since it seems quite a few people have this issue with their dd pro wheelbases.
Hi Marcel
tried all but Fimware updater.exe doesnt work too .Can be the PCB defective ?
One Question, are the recommended settings for ACC still recommended?
yes.
Hello Maurice / Marcel and all Fanatec base owners, this is my first Post. My name is Marcos, and I live in Argentina. After a lot of effort I was able to finish my rig with a DD1 and I am very satisfied, I had to bring it from the USA because it is not possible to buy it here. I have had the DD1 base for about 1 year and a half and I always wanted to have my DD1 updated with this long-awaited driver and firmware for all of us. I tell you that I never update my drivers and firmware for fear of errors, if you live in the USA or Europe and have a problem, it is cumbersome to send these bases, but imagine from Argentina, it will be enormous suffering and expense. I am clear that when doing this type of update one always runs some risk, I am willing to take it because I want to get the most out of my base. For this, I would like you to tell me the appropriate procedure and recommended by fanatec as of today, please. I believe that many things have changed recently and I would like to minimize the risks in this process. I have read some recommendations from users, (some uninstall drivers, others do not), but I would like to have the step by step and know the correct order of all these processes please. If this was already reported in another post I sincerely apologize. A hug to all the members of the forum. Thank you!
Just tried to update to 442 on my Podium F1 and Inverted V3 pedals. After the update my podium button module doesn't turn on anymore. Also even though it says that I have updated my v3 pedals, every time I plug it back in to check it says it needs to be updated to 1.34. Any idea what's going on?
Wow. I'm still on 1.57.4.0, how do I update to a later version of Fanalab?
Going to uninstall 1.57 and then install 1.63. I assume I'll have to recreate my settings for my sims and point the software at my games again?
This growth rate of this thread clearly shows the importance of alpha/beta testing on a wide variety of hardware/software combinations before releasing to avoid a ton of headaches for customers and Fanatec.
How to get another engine firmware? Got 10.2.2 on it and you have 10.2.3 where do you get it?
I’m having the same exact issue but while playing GT7 on the ps5. Did not have the problem with driver 439. I’m not sure how to downgrade as I’ve updated all my wheel, button module and v3 pedals. I have to restart the base in order to get it to work again.
You even need 1.64.5 for this new driver.
But yes, just uninstall old version and install new version.
Fanatec support sent it to me as a test firmware to resolve the rough feedback and vibration issue that plagues the GT DD PRO wheelbases. This firmware works to some degree in calming the wheelbase but I still found an intermittent behavior with this firmware installed.
Yes, can confirm. No other device gives these chills.