with fw334 there is also a glitch that your pedals can go off while racing with throttle working as a brake or clutch etc all 3 pedals swap functionalities
I haven't had that problem... I flashed My pedals FW and they have been working flawless 4+ hours a day minimum since April 29th.
with fw334 there is also a glitch that your pedals can go off while racing with throttle working as a brake or clutch etc all 3 pedals swap functionalities
I haven't had that problem... I flashed My pedals FW and they have been working flawless 4+ hours a day minimum since April 29th.
What you mean you flashed your pedals FW ? when i go into the update sections pedals drivers doesnt show at all , it only says update wheelbase fw , wheelbase motor fw and steering wheel fw
V3, v3i Pedals can be updated when plugged directly in to PC via USB...The Quick guide has all the info how to do it...
Pedal flash It may Fix the issue for some but hasn't been a permanent woking solution for every 1... I guess its a silicone Lottery but its worth a shot... its Been working for Me with No Pedal inverting issues.
V3, v3i Pedals can be updated when plugged directly i to PC via USB...The Quick guide has all the info how to do it...
Pedal flash It may Fix the issue for some but hasn't been a permanent woking solution for every 1... I guess its a silicone Lottery but its worth a shot... its Been working for Me with No Pedal inverting issues.
Oh ok yes i know about that when you plug them through the pc via usb ( had them like this before dd1 arrived) , but i opt to keep them connected with the rj12 to the base since thats the recomendation from fanatec , thanks for the tip thought
Just had a thought. Wouldn't BrF of 50 be linear, with the new way the settings are presented?
Bearing in mind, 50 is also default.
Off to try it.
Please report back your findings... I didn't think it was Linear... But always good to have Multiple Confirmations something could have been missed.
It didn't seem to be the case. Think I'm gonna go the USB route instead of plugging in to the wheel base for now.
There's definitely a sensitivity issue going on. I press my pedals as hard as possible and set max, to calibrate.. as I have always done, but now, none of the BrF settings, min - 50 - max etc require the same amount of force to reach 100% braking, much less is required. I used to be able to set it so I could consistently reach ~80%, with an stronger / extra press to get to 100%. I knew by feel where it was. Now, no matter how hard I try, I can't achieve the same result.
I would say its similar to previously calibrating the pedals with Brf: off and then setting Brf to 5 or 10 for use.
Hey Steven do you use the BPK for your V3? Do you race in iRacing? If so on both, are you saying connecting your pedals to your PC so how fixes the over sensitive issue on 335? Was it a update o the V3's you did that fixed them?
Hey Steven do you use the BPK for your V3? Do you race in iRacing? If so on both, are you saying connecting your pedals to your PC so how fixes the over sensitive issue on 335? Was it a update o the V3's you did that fixed them?
Thanks!
Hey warfalcon ,he switched it to usb connection and not in the base i did the same and it works fine like this , you wont have to do anything else just plug them no need to download something , it will show up as a different device in the control panel
Hey Steven do you use the BPK for your V3? Do you race in iRacing? If so on both, are you saying connecting your pedals to your PC so how fixes the over sensitive issue on 335? Was it a update o the V3's you did that fixed them?
Thanks!
Hey warfalcon ,he switched it to usb connection and not in the base i did the same and it works fine like this , you wont have to do anything else just plug them no need to download something , it will show up as a different device in the control panel
This
I wanted to avoid using USB, but kinda had no choice. The latest firmware fixed an issue with my vibrating wheel motors activating (and pedals swapping) so didn't want to roll it back, but couldn't deal with the sensitivity issue of having them connected to the base. Connected via USB and everything is back to normal.
Any word officially from Fanatec on this? My muscle memory just cant deal with it. Why do they have change this sort of thing? So we wait a year, then just as I start enjoying my DD they ruin the feel of the pedals. Well done.
Really not covering themselves in glory ATM when it comes to software....
Just Go back to FW 334 and Enjoy your Equipment until a New FW is released... I'm sure Fanatec is working to address the Issue... That's what I did and All is well.
I have done now. I'd deIeted the install package for 334 was having a hard time finding a download of it. I got it from a 3rd party french site in the end. Is there somewhere on the Fanatec site you can download older drivers?
can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?
The brackets for these button boxes were specifically shaped for the much wider ClubSport base, I guess you would need to create new brackets. The front holes for accessories on the Podium bases are M6.
Thanks Dominic.
What's the maximum depth a screw can go in these holes please - I tested with an M6 and it went in about 4-5mm before seeming to go no further, so I don't want to risk tightening it more and damaging anything inside. Thanks as always for your excellent support.
The front holes have a maximum depth of 10mm.
For those wondering about the front holes, please note that these holes are not designed for hard mounting the wheel base to a bracket and should only be used for mounting accessories to the base.
Any word officially from Fanatec on this? My muscle memory just cant deal with it. Why do they have change this sort of thing? So we wait a year, then just as I start enjoying my DD they ruin the feel of the pedals. Well done.
Really not covering themselves in glory ATM when it comes to software....
We are aware of the issue, and I apologise for the inconvenience. It will be resolved in the next driver update, which should be available by the end of the month. It is possible that a firmware fix can be rolled out sooner, but I don't have an ETA at this time. For now, we suggest either rolling back to the previous firmware (if it wasn't causing a specific problem for you), or to connect the pedals via USB (if you are on PC).
"We are aware of the issue, and I apologise for the inconvenience. It will be resolved in the next driver update, which should be available by the end of the month. It is possible that a firmware fix can be rolled out sooner, but I don't have an ETA at this time. For now, we suggest either rolling back to the previous firmware (if it wasn't causing a specific problem for you), or to connect the pedals via USB (if you are on PC).
"
Hi Dominic Brennan can you answer what is supposed to be the Linear setting in the New FW... My best Guess its supposed to be 50%... I plan to try it again when I get home from work if this is the case.... I think a problem is that it was changed without explanation and when we test and when it doesn't work like it used to we get frustrated because it doesn't work as expected or same as last version.... Win 10/64bit, DD2, v3i pedals... FW/DR 335 In My case after a bit of testing and right away noticing Brake was Hyper sensitive I reverted back to DR/FW 334 because I do Not get the Brake pedal Swapping issue... I have been on DR/FW 334 since April 29th and have had No issue with the Pedals Swapping thus far... Not even Once.... I will be willing to test DR/FW 335 again or any FW you Need tested to help resolve this issue.
"We are aware of the issue, and I apologise for the inconvenience. It will be resolved in the next driver update, which should be available by the end of the month. It is possible that a firmware fix can be rolled out sooner, but I don't have an ETA at this time. For now, we suggest either rolling back to the previous firmware (if it wasn't causing a specific problem for you), or to connect the pedals via USB (if you are on PC).
What I would like in the future if it isn't done already is to know what is being changed or updated, and what effect. It could cause. Or improve on., what been taken away or added. And this to found quite easily. It seems like that one has to hear from the grapevine that new drivers have even been Implemented.... Sorry I had done this on my phone :-$
can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?
The brackets for these button boxes were specifically shaped for the much wider ClubSport base, I guess you would need to create new brackets. The front holes for accessories on the Podium bases are M6.
Thanks Dominic.
What's the maximum depth a screw can go in these holes please - I tested with an M6 and it went in about 4-5mm before seeming to go no further, so I don't want to risk tightening it more and damaging anything inside. Thanks as always for your excellent support.
The front holes have a maximum depth of 10mm.
For those wondering about the front holes, please note that these holes are not designed for hard mounting the wheel base to a bracket and should only be used for mounting accessories to the base.
Any word officially from Fanatec on this? My muscle memory just cant deal with it. Why do they have change this sort of thing? So we wait a year, then just as I start enjoying my DD they ruin the feel of the pedals. Well done.
Really not covering themselves in glory ATM when it comes to software....
We are aware of the issue, and I apologise for the inconvenience. It will be resolved in the next driver update, which should be available by the end of the month. It is possible that a firmware fix can be rolled out sooner, but I don't have an ETA at this time. For now, we suggest either rolling back to the previous firmware (if it wasn't causing a specific problem for you), or to connect the pedals via USB (if you are on PC).
Thanks. Always nice to hear an official answer. Top job
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base
Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it".
In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority.
However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base
Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it".
In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority.
However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base
Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it".
In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority.
However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
Thomas said over in the peripherals thread that they will be updating the functionality of the kill switch to offer a toggle if you want it to just kill the torque or power it off.
It obviously does not carry the electricity through the cable. Look at the size of the power cable vs the RJ12. It's just remote buttons, that doesn't mean it can't do its job correctly.
If you really want a hard kill powerswitch I believe there are options for power strips that have easy off buttons that you could plug the base into and mount to your rig.
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base
Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
That's really not what a kill switch does. It's supposed to cut power in the event of serious injury, like "I need to pull what's left of my thumb out of the wheel and drive to the emergency room to see if they can reattach it".
In the event that you need the kill switch, what's going on in the sim is no longer a priority.
However, a "kill switch" that can't physically break the circuit carrying inbound current... isn't actually a kill switch at all.
It will do what it says on the tin
Sure, as long as there are no bugs in the code that polls the kill switch. The whole point of a kill switch is that you rely on the simplest mechanism possible to break the circuit.
I notice a strange motor action sometimes in my dd1.. in normal driving it happened to me only a couple of times until now, but in the linear test of iRacing wheel check it is possible to notice it clearly (3\4 times in one test): the engine sometimes offers an imperfect delivery of force, causing a short-intense braking\notch during rotation and this causes an audible "TOC" noise similar to the rattling noise. QR is firmly mounted, it is the motor. While driving it feels like a real notch when it happens. Is it normal? Is it a cogging flaw?
oh when will we get to turn of the warning everytime we fire up our DD2 ( assume same for DD1 )
It actually causes a problem because sometimes the wheel is just locked when I press the button to ackowledge the message and you cant turn it off by pressing the on/off but the emergency stop does do that.
Come on, give us a way to get rid of this annoying message
Also keeping this in mind, what is best for the base, turning it on/ff everytime you use it or just turning it on and leaving it in that state?
btw: got my silicone grease delivered from ebay and it makes a big difference
Comments
I press my pedals as hard as possible and set max, to calibrate.. as I have always done, but now, none of the BrF settings, min - 50 - max etc require the same amount of force to reach 100% braking, much less is required. I used to be able to set it so I could consistently reach ~80%, with an stronger / extra press to get to 100%. I knew by feel where it was. Now, no matter how hard I try, I can't achieve the same result.
I would say its similar to previously calibrating the pedals with Brf: off and then setting Brf to 5 or 10 for use.
:-$