1. Is it recommended to connect CSW pedals into the base? I always have used the pedals connected directly into the PC? With CSW bases it always have been better. Is this the same for the DD?
2. When you turn the base on a message appear "CAUTION! Torque key Inserted!" blablabla. How to turn it off? I know i inserted the key.
3. The powerbrick (connected to a wall socket) does make some noice. sort of a electrical buzzing sound. Not really a issue in daytime, but when its in a room were you try to sleep, you think you have tinnitus.
1. Yes, it's better to connect them to the Base because you get Brf setting available. It's the same resolution as when you connect them via USB. 2. Press any key or hold die wheel. 90° (if you are on at least driver 336 with newest firmware). 3. Contact support and you will get a new one as it's a known issue of the PSU.
Soo maurice, as regards to his last issue, the PSU noise. Has Fanatec, fixed the problem.
And there would be a newer version of the PSU sent out to him.
Or it's just the same version PSU but in a hope that he wont get the problem again ?
Ok, so I asked this question nearly a week ago, Stiil no answer, Maurice, and its either Fanatec are using a new PSU with having fixed that original issue. Or they just gonna give you another PSU hoping that its gonna work fine,
Well that's 50/50 as no one knows weather it will work fine or not.
If the latter is the case. Then at least say so.
In fact gives us some factual information . So even if you do or dont know the answer at least say so.
I dont get why you guys are meant to help with queries and question. You guys seemingly just pick n choose which questions to answer, such frustration
I dont know the answer, but it is not going to be 50:50. If it were 50:50, then every second post would be complaining about it.
Unfortunately yours was faulty.
This happens with every product. 1 in 1XXXX units does not mean they need to change the model. I got a faulty Samsung Galaxy Phone out of the box. Doesnt mean they had to change the phone model. I just got a new one.
My DD2 had a faulty screen. My 2nd unit was fine. I didnt consider it a 50:50 draw if the next unit will have a faulty screen.
It is highly unlikely your next one will be faulty, considering I have rarely heard of the issue on these forums & it may have been a small batch problem. Your new one will be from a completely newer batch. Don't get frustrated about the lack of response. It is an unrealistic question.
So if i understand correctly the Podium PS4 comes out of the factory with 334? which does not contain these 2 modes right? Updating it to 335 would be the deal to get these parameters?
no. 334 and 335 are driver versions which can not be pre-installed because its PC software. What you talk about is Firmware which is installed on the Wheel Base. Dont know factory Firmware versions but you should have these two options with EVERY Firmware, also with the factory one FOR SURE. If those are missing you need to contact the support as something with the motor communication could be damaged.
Maurice,
Do you maybe know if it has something to do with in which mode the device is? since it is in PS4 mode now could that maybe be the reason i dont see them?
So if i understand correctly the Podium PS4 comes out of the factory with 334? which does not contain these 2 modes right? Updating it to 335 would be the deal to get these parameters?
no. 334 and 335 are driver versions which can not be pre-installed because its PC software. What you talk about is Firmware which is installed on the Wheel Base. Dont know factory Firmware versions but you should have these two options with EVERY Firmware, also with the factory one FOR SURE. If those are missing you need to contact the support as something with the motor communication could be damaged.
Maurice,
Do you maybe know if it has something to do with in which mode the device is? since it is in PS4 mode now could that maybe be the reason i dont see them?
PS4 mode should also have FEI and NFR as those are motor settings. I would contact the support.
it's not me that has the problem, mine is fine as of now, it was the other dude that had the problem. That no-one of Fanatec's team could give an answer to. I was merely asking the question again on his behalf, (not that he asked me to)
1. Is it recommended to connect CSW pedals into the base? I always have used the pedals connected directly into the PC? With CSW bases it always have been better. Is this the same for the DD?
2. When you turn the base on a message appear "CAUTION! Torque key Inserted!" blablabla. How to turn it off? I know i inserted the key.
3. The powerbrick (connected to a wall socket) does make some noice. sort of a electrical buzzing sound. Not really a issue in daytime, but when its in a room were you try to sleep, you think you have tinnitus.
1. Yes, it's better to connect them to the Base because you get Brf setting available. It's the same resolution as when you connect them via USB. 2. Press any key or hold die wheel. 90° (if you are on at least driver 336 with newest firmware). 3. Contact support and you will get a new one as it's a known issue of the PSU.
Soo maurice, as regards to his last issue, the PSU noise. Has Fanatec, fixed the problem.
And there would be a newer version of the PSU sent out to him.
Or it's just the same version PSU but in a hope that he wont get the problem again ?
Ok, so I asked this question nearly a week ago, Stiil no answer, Maurice, and its either Fanatec are using a new PSU with having fixed that original issue. Or they just gonna give you another PSU hoping that its gonna work fine,
Well that's 50/50 as no one knows weather it will work fine or not.
If the latter is the case. Then at least say so.
In fact gives us some factual information . So even if you do or dont know the answer at least say so.
I dont get why you guys are meant to help with queries and question. You guys seemingly just pick n choose which questions to answer, such frustration
You need to ask the Technical Support, not me. I am NOT working in the technical support team of Fanatec so I can not answer this.
@other DD users? Does the fan of the power supply keep running even if you turn off your wheel? does it supposed to be running...?
Mine too, which seems senseless and is a bit annoying. Never before I had a product with running fan when not in use. Any thoughts from Fanatec on this subject or did I again misread/overlook some old statement? I couldn't find old postings on this topic because searching for "FAN" in a FANatec-forum isn't really productive... :-B
Yesterday I was playing Iracing when suddenly the base stopped and I received a message stating that the base was started in update mode without me doing anything except driving. Is this normal behavior?
How to avoid this happening because when it happens, we lose control of the car in the game, it was really frustrating.
I was sure to be in the last update because I play since Saturday with and I updated it directly before that.
Yesterday I was playing Iracing when suddenly the base stopped and I received a message stating that the base was started in update mode without me doing anything except driving. Is this normal behavior?
How to avoid this happening because when it happens, we lose control of the car in the game, it was really frustrating.
I was sure to be in the last update because I play since Saturday with and I updated it directly before that.
If you were on driver version 340, please describe this once again in the corresponding thread:
Hi i was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the following with there DD1 or DD2.
My DD1 wheel base when under load going round corners, i am getting the odd clicking sound as it something has moved a notch, (difficult to explain), only happens under load, I have pushed and pulled my rig and i cant make it make that sound so don't believe it is that, I also cant replicated this sound by pushing and pulling the drive shaft on the wheel base it is solid and in place, So there must be something else inside the base, i don't this there is a loss or fluctuation in FFB when this happens but i cant be 100% sure of this as it is so quick.
Hi i was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the following with there DD1 or DD2.
My DD1 wheel base when under load going round corners, i am getting the odd clicking sound as it something has moved a notch, (difficult to explain), only happens under load, I have pushed and pulled my rig and i cant make it make that sound so don't believe it is that, I also cant replicated this sound by pushing and pulling the drive shaft on the wheel base it is solid and in place, So there must be something else inside the base, i don't this there is a loss or fluctuation in FFB when this happens but i cant be 100% sure of this as it is so quick.
Can you try it with a different rim? My BMW rim makes clicking noises (I'll re-tighten all screws of the rim one day...), my Formula is silent.
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
need some advice, I've got the CSL elite f1 set on order should i just cancel it and put the extra money to and get a DD wheelbase?
That would be a wise discussion my friend, technology only getting more advanced. Doesn't make sense buying that old wheel base when a better one wheel is available.
need some advice, I've got the CSL elite f1 set on order should i just cancel it and put the extra money to and get a DD wheelbase?
That would be a wise discussion my friend, technology only getting more advanced. Doesn't make sense buying that old wheel base when a better one wheel is available.
If you can find the e tra cash, it's a no brainer really
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
Cronomus DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter (to use HE pedals on Xbox One X; until i build my PC)
2X RSeat S1 Shifter/Handbrake Upgrade
Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ V 1.5
Fanatec Clubsport Handbrake V 1.5
RSeat 65" TV Stand
Gaming PC
Personally I would lose the RSeat and a 80/20 alloy rig, Sim-Lab have got rave reviews everything else on the list is sweet, excluding the RSeat peripherals. Just my opinion fella
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
Cronomus DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter (to use HE pedals on Xbox One X; until i build my PC)
2X RSeat S1 Shifter/Handbrake Upgrade
Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ V 1.5
Fanatec Clubsport Handbrake V 1.5
RSeat 65" TV Stand
Gaming PC
The Only thing I would Change would be the Pedals from Heusinkveld to the V3i pedals... v3i Pedals are Really Really Good!!! and Plug right into your wheel base... I had the RSeat RS1 its a very Well built Rig... It has a Tad bit of pedal plate Flex and you Need to Add the Pro pedal deck to get the Pedals rock Solid With No pedal tray flex only problem if your over 6ft tall it can feel kinda small the pro pedal deck kills alotta Leg room space.... I sold the RS1 and bought a RSeat N1 and IMO its the Cadillac of Rigs... Much more space than I Need and Super Solid....Many Like the 80/20 Rigs... I like them too but don't want to have to order custom 80/20 when I want to make changes.... RSeat has the Pieces that's that order what I want and its delivered in 1 week or Less!!! I'm In NY I can't figure out how shipping is sooo cheap and Fast from Bulgaria.
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
Cronomus DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter (to use HE pedals on Xbox One X; until i build my PC)
2X RSeat S1 Shifter/Handbrake Upgrade
Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ V 1.5
Fanatec Clubsport Handbrake V 1.5
RSeat 65" TV Stand
Gaming PC
Personally I would lose the RSeat and a 80/20 alloy rig, Sim-Lab have got rave reviews everything else on the list is sweet, excluding the RSeat peripherals. Just my opinion fella
is it just me but i don't like the look of sim lab rigs, the rseat is so much more appealing.........after looking on how it"s build it looks super soild......if i don't like the rseat i will definitely consider the sim lab p1
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
Cronomus DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter (to use HE pedals on Xbox One X; until i build my PC)
2X RSeat S1 Shifter/Handbrake Upgrade
Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ V 1.5
Fanatec Clubsport Handbrake V 1.5
RSeat 65" TV Stand
Gaming PC
The Only thing I would Change would be the Pedals from Heusinkveld to the V3i pedals... v3i Pedals are Really Really Good!!! and Plug right into your wheel base... I had the RSeat S1 its a very Well built Rig... It has a Tad bit of pedal plate Flex and you Need to Add the Pro pedal deck to get the Pedals rock Solid With No pedal tray flex only problem if your over 6ft tall it can feel kinda small the pro pedal deck kills alotta Leg room space.... I sold the RS1 and bought a RSeat N1 and IMO its the Cadillac of Rigs... Much more space than I Need and Super Solid....Many Like the 80/20 Rigs... I like them too but don't want to have to order custom 80/20 when I want to make changes.... RSeat has the Pieces that's that order what I want and its delivered in 1 week or Less!!! I'm In NY I can't figure out how shipping is sooo cheap and Fast from Bulgaria.
So the Pro Pedal deck is compatible to the S1, thanks didn't know that.
Just getting back in to sim racing after being out of it since the old Porsche 911 Turbo S wheel days. I have been dying to make a return and now i'm finally reaching to the finish line. Here is a component list of the racing rig i am currently building. And feel free to give me your honest opinion.
Cronomus DriveHub Racing Wheel Converter (to use HE pedals on Xbox One X; until i build my PC)
2X RSeat S1 Shifter/Handbrake Upgrade
Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ V 1.5
Fanatec Clubsport Handbrake V 1.5
RSeat 65" TV Stand
Gaming PC
The Only thing I would Change would be the Pedals from Heusinkveld to the V3i pedals... v3i Pedals are Really Really Good!!! and Plug right into your wheel base... I had the RSeat S1 its a very Well built Rig... It has a Tad bit of pedal plate Flex and you Need to Add the Pro pedal deck to get the Pedals rock Solid With No pedal tray flex only problem if your over 6ft tall it can feel kinda small the pro pedal deck kills alotta Leg room space.... I sold the RS1 and bought a RSeat N1 and IMO its the Cadillac of Rigs... Much more space than I Need and Super Solid....Many Like the 80/20 Rigs... I like them too but don't want to have to order custom 80/20 when I want to make changes.... RSeat has the Pieces that's that order what I want and its delivered in 1 week or Less!!! I'm In NY I can't figure out how shipping is sooo cheap and Fast from Bulgaria.
So the Pro Pedal deck is compatible to the S1, thanks didn't know that.
Sorry Cell phone Typo...I thought you were talking about the RSeat RS1 and I meant to type RS1... The S1 Looks Really Good too almost same build as the N1 but I dunno if it has the same amount of space though... Shaun Cole " The Sim Pit" has a Good Build video and Review on it on his youtube channel..... As the Owner of a RS1 and Now the N1 they are both Rock Solid Rigs... IMO you will be Very Happy with the S1 build Quality and sturdiness... The N1 has Zero Flex with the DD2 even at FFB 100%.
No. Soon, according to a post from Thomas in the iRacing forums at the end of June 2-3 weeks from that post, so should be this coming week or 1 week after. But really, it's worthless to ask the same question day by day. Just be a bit more patient, it will be with us very soon I am sure.
No. Soon, according to a post from Thomas in the iRacing forums at the end of June 2-3 weeks from that post, so should be this coming week or 1 week after. But really, it's worthless to ask the same question day by day. Just be a bit more patient, it will be with us very soon I am sure.
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