Will it be possible to order additional ferrite-equipped accessory cables? My DD2 came with 2, enough to hook up the pedals, shifter, or kill switch, but not all 3 at once.
Also, upgraded USB cables (color-coded fabric jackets) might be a nice touch, and an opportunity for add-on sales.
Out of curiosity, I aligned the wheel and ran the motor alignment tests. The zero on it looks perfect within the driver software, but when I turn the wheel base on, it proceeds to rotate 30 or so degrees to the right and then rotates back towards zero and slowly stops at like +6 degrees. Anyone else have this issue? Not sure it's really affecting anything but it doesn't go back to zero. I can manually rotate it back to zero and the driver software shows it at zero when I do so.
i noticed that also last night. i saw the solution with increasing spr setting but its already at 100 to begin with. I am not worried about it thou, i am in vr and i did not notice anything until I was not wearing the headset. Im sure that will get fixed if there is an issue.
I have the same effect. But to be honest, I didn't realise it until you wrote it. For me it's just an effect but no issue, as my DD2 works perfectly.
Hello I have 2 Questions...1) when using the DD2/DD1 in CSW v2.5 Compatibility mode other than the buttons working and DD wheels being Much more powerful is there a difference in FFB Feel and Fidelity vs a Game that is patched support the DD2/DD1 Natively.... 2) Also with Next DD FW is it possible to include a CSW v2 and CSW v2.5 compatibility mode so that the DD2/DD1 will work with older games like Dirt Rally Sport that are Not getting updated any more.
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
The kill switch is connected to the base with a RJ12 cable. There is no other connection. That should answer your question
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
The kill switch is connected to the base with a RJ12 cable. There is no other connection. That should answer your question
So is power supply whining normal when DD is turned on and idling? I'm not sure anymore... Some people say it is while others say they have no whining sound...
I'm kinda new in Fanatec Ecosystem, it is hard to understand HOW to change between the PC and Compatibility mode, when reading the Podium manual Fanatec just briefly says in a note "Each steering wheel has a different button press combination in
order to change modes. "Please see your wheel’s quick guide in order to
see which button press combination is required". When checking my Quick guide for Porsche 918 RSR rim it only refers a button press and hold for PS3 mode and when I trying that nothing changes in the OLED display.
How hard could it be for Fanatec to put up a either a FW setting in Podium Wheel base to change mode in the menu system on the wheelbase?
Or is there are some kind of involvement in the wheels FW then please just explain HOW to change the Compatibility mode setting on each wheel.
Anyone out there with a Porsche RSR 918 wheel willing to share which buttons to press to change mode from PC to Compv2.5?
I'm kinda new in Fanatec Ecosystem, it is hard to understand HOW to change between the PC and Compatibility mode, when reading the Podium manual Fanatec just briefly says in a note "Each steering wheel has a different button press combination in
order to change modes. "Please see your wheel’s quick guide in order to
see which button press combination is required". When checking my Quick guide for Porsche 918 RSR rim it only refers a button press and hold for PS3 mode and when I trying that nothing changes in the OLED display.
How hard could it be for Fanatec to put up a either a FW setting in Podium Wheel base to change mode in the menu system on the wheelbase?
Or is there are some kind of involvement in the wheels FW then please just explain HOW to change the Compatibility mode setting on each wheel.
Anyone out there with a Porsche RSR 918 wheel willing to share which buttons to press to change mode from PC to Compv2.5?
I ran into the same problem with that wheels documentation. I found it by guessing. Press the bottom left button in the triangle of buttons plus the one with the cone around it on the upper right.
I ran into the same problem with that wheels documentation. I found it by guessing. Press the bottom left button in the triangle of buttons plus the one with the cone around it on the upper right.
Thx a lot Michael, I tried a lot of combos but that one i didnt try! Now it's time for Fanatec to either update the firmware or update the documentation
Was just sat here, with podium powered up, but no game... anyway its been idle for about 10 minutes, then all of a sudden, the Porsche rim started vibrating and the only way to stop them is turn off the wheel base... the motors inside, not FFB related.
Anybody else getting this?
Also, had a few probs with pedals working ok, then being reversed or clutch becoming handbrake (don't have a hb), brake becoming clutch etc. I updated the pedal firmware manually, its not re-occured yet, but still.. strange. Pedals, Shifter, kill switch all connected to base.
Was just sat here, with podium powered up, but no game... anyway its been idle for about 10 minutes, then all of a sudden, the Porsche rim started vibrating and the only way to stop them is turn off the wheel base... the motors inside, not FFB related.
Anybody else getting this?
Also, had a few probs with pedals working ok, then being reversed or clutch becoming handbrake (don't have a hb), brake becoming clutch etc. I updated the pedal firmware manually, its not re-occured yet, but still.. strange. Pedals, Shifter, kill switch all connected to base.
Steven
I have the same thing. It seems like each time I launch a game, the pedals have reversed and also inverted the axis in some cases. Frustrating to say the least - especially when you forget to re-assign before entering a race!
The only thing I couldn't figure out, is the Comp-V2.5 Mode. I have the BMW GT2 rim and the Formula Black rim. Neither do the two Playstation-mode buttons described in the respective manuals work nor do the buttons work which are shown here in the video (3:37 / 4:09)
Anyone out there who already switched modes with one of these rims? :-S
So nobody (incl. Fanatec staff) out there who knows the buttons to change the mode?
It's the bottom left black buttom and the top right green button.
It's the same buttons on every wheel, they are just physically in different places.
That's funny. These buttons don't work either. But bottom left black + top right RED do work with my BMW rim! Is it possible that there are several different combos working for the same rim type? Maybe I should have checked the printed manual which came with my rim. It's safely stored in the origninal box somewhere in the cellar because I wasn't expecting any differences from the manual on Fanatec's website. Next time when I'll see the box, I'll have a look into the "real life" manual. :-B
Hi, this is my first fanatec product and I am stumbling around a bit trying to get it to work . When I don't have the wheel rim attached the fanatec property page shows the dd1 as a controller but when I attach the rim then nothing shows up in the controllers section so I cannot go to the properties page, anyone have any ideas?
Just a quick question, have you downloaded the firmware it's on the product's page of the item, think there's one for the rim too. I'll edit after I check
Hi, this is my first fanatec product and I am stumbling around a bit trying to get it to work . When I don't have the wheel rim attached the fanatec property page shows the dd1 as a controller but when I attach the rim then nothing shows up in the controllers section so I cannot go to the properties page, anyone have any ideas?
You need you go to the download section of the dd1 product page and downlaoad the drivers for it. I don't see fanatec wheel app on your desktop so I am guessing you mssed this step.
Hi, this is my first fanatec product and I am stumbling around a bit trying to get it to work . When I don't have the wheel rim attached the fanatec property page shows the dd1 as a controller but when I attach the rim then nothing shows up in the controllers section so I cannot go to the properties page, anyone have any ideas?
You need you go to the download section of the dd1 product page and downlaoad the drivers for it. I don't see fanatec wheel app on your desktop so I am guessing you mssed this step.
I was looking for this icon too, and didn't see it on his desktop
Thanks for the prompt replies guys, I sorted it out. I had the USB plugged into a USB hub and for some reason when just the wheelbase going it was detected but when I added the rim it wasn't. I plugged directly into PC and updated all firmware then plugged back into hub and now all is good. Cheers
Does all DC current from the power supply pass through the kill switch ("hard" kill) or can current still flow to the wheel base after the kill switch is activated?
I was kinda hoping that the killswitch would just kill the ffb but still be able to drive the car to safety, without having to completely turn off the base
Hopefully there's gonna be a fix for that in the very near future.
Similar to some other Podium user comments, I just wanted to register my dissatisfaction of the "play" of the QR on the DD2. Causes constant creaking with my xbox hub. Imo this is a major issue. Going to contact support about it as I feel a major flaw like this is unacceptable considering the huge delay. Fyi everything else is amazing just that annoying creaking that I dont expect or accept from such a high cost product.
...Ok, so after reading some of the comments about the QR "play", I've inserted the pin and that's sorted it, to an acceptable level. However, this obviously renders the QR system ineffective... but at least theres no creaking anymore.
For anyone setting up their new wheel. This is a method of how I approach a new wheelbase setup. Never had any issues with this technique. Maybe bit of an ocd method, though I like to do it clean.
1. Uninstall previous driver and restart
2. Download latest firmware from wheelbase page (I test other beta firmwares once it’s all set up)
3. Flash wheelbase firmware (no wheel attached)
4. Flash motor firmware ( no wheel attached, if fw available)
5. Direct connect Pedals ( flash firmware, if available)
Comments
Anybody else getting this?
Also, had a few probs with pedals working ok, then being reversed or clutch becoming handbrake (don't have a hb), brake becoming clutch etc. I updated the pedal firmware manually, its not re-occured yet, but still.. strange. Pedals, Shifter, kill switch all connected to base.