I received my DDR1 and got it all connected last night and ran into a small issue with my Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ during setup.
I connected the ClubSport Shifter, using the original RJ11, to the port labelled "Shifter 1". The quickguide states that Shifter 1 is for shifters in "H-pattern mode
or SQ mode" (moving it to Shifter 2 to see if that would fix the issue was worse).
However, in the Fanatec Properties page, it only recognizes the contacts when the Shifter is in sequential mode (up and down).
It does not recognize ANY positions when the Shifter is in Manual mode (R-7).
If all else fails, I have an RJ11 to USB adapter but I wanted to report this on the forum in case it's a bug. Has anyone else ran into this issue?
I received my DDR1 and got it all connected last night and ran into a small issue with my Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ during setup.
I connected the ClubSport Shifter, using the original RJ11, to the port labelled "Shifter 1". The quickguide states that Shifter 1 is for shifters in "H-pattern mode
or SQ mode" (moving it to Shifter 2 to see if that would fix the issue was worse).
However, in the Fanatec Properties page, it only recognizes the contacts when the Shifter is in sequential mode (up and down).
It does not recognize ANY positions when the Shifter is in Manual mode (R-7).
If all else fails, I have an RJ11 to USB adapter but I wanted to report this on the forum in case it's a bug. Has anyone else ran into this issue?
Did you follow the instructons on page 36 of the downloaded manual? You have to calibrate each gear. Only once I did this could I see it show the shifts within their wheel software.
I did but when I shift into gears (oddly, it just says n-6 on the display), it doesn't register that I have moved the shifter into any of the positions.
I've done this often with my CSW after each firmware update but the DD1 doesn't yield the same results. I am probably just missing a simple step somewhere but if I am, it's possible that others are as well and this might help them.
I received my DDR1 and got it all connected last night and ran into a small issue with my Fanatec Clubsport Shifter SQ during setup.
I connected the ClubSport Shifter, using the original RJ11, to the port labelled "Shifter 1". The quickguide states that Shifter 1 is for shifters in "H-pattern mode
or SQ mode" (moving it to Shifter 2 to see if that would fix the issue was worse).
However, in the Fanatec Properties page, it only recognizes the contacts when the Shifter is in sequential mode (up and down).
It does not recognize ANY positions when the Shifter is in Manual mode (R-7).
If all else fails, I have an RJ11 to USB adapter but I wanted to report this on the forum in case it's a bug. Has anyone else ran into this issue?
Yeah shifter 2 is really only for the static paddles. It's sequential only.
Port 1 is the correct one.
I have DD1 and I connected my v3i with the new cable but I encounter some problems ... every now and then I run the brake at 100% and the steering wheel motors vibrate ... I looked in the control panel and saw the brake pressed at 100% but it is totally released in more vibrates abs sensor and the steering wheel. I have to turn off and on again and for a while it goes ... I tried now to unplug the cable from the pedals to the base and connect it via usb and it seems to work everything .. has anyone already happened?
I noticed that on the trunks and wheel alignment the pedals are inverted from 100% to 0 and I have to select inverted ...
I am satisfied with the product and I think it is a problem of young drivers or firmware ... I have a f1 2018 limited as a steering wheel
Pedal board V3I driver 334 firmware 1.30
DD1 Driver 334
Wheel base firmware 651
wheel base motor firmware 29
stering wheel firmware 27
before it arrived podium I had formatted and the new drivers I had installed them as soon as I arrived.
I tried to uninstall the drivers and reinstall them but the problem of the pedals remains connected to the base
I continue to test it without connection to the base
Any people experience problems with the v334 firmware in combination with the Clubsport V3 pedals and Podium base?
Currently setting up all the settings for the different games and already had a few times the below problems:
In the wheel base menu no more Brf (brake force) setting. The setting was just gone it went from nFr strait to the FEI setting. Resulting in a very sensitive brake pedal. Only need to touch the brake pedal a bit for full brake and locking wheels.
For some reason the base switches arround the pedals? It starts normal but after some tweaking of setting etc the brake pedal is my throttle, clutch is the brake and the throttle is the clutch pedal. Already had it within Raceroom and iRacing.
Before beginning with the Podium base replaced my RJ12 cable with the supplied cable of the Podium base. Also did all the firmware updates of the base, motor calibration etc. Have no reproduce to get the problem. But today already had both problems 2 times in a few hours of setting up and test driving.
After a reboot of the Podium base it's back to normal again.
Hey,
Did you have this issue with iRacing or where you in a different sim?
After reading about your experiences und using today's official holiday to mount and try my DD1, i'd like to share my own experiences:
I don't have any flex in the system. In contrast, I have to use my full force to install the rims. No matter if the nut is loose or just as much tightened that the rubber stays in place but is not compressed... I have to press very strongly to make the QR snap in. Switching rims isn't fun this way but on the other hand, no flex at all...
PSU noise is noticeable but doesn't bother me right now as the PSU lies behind the LCD and the game sound is louder.
I also sense the slight vibration in the base while holding the rim but I don't see a problem there because game effects are much more intense.
Turning off with power button works.
It took me so long to get my shifter pedals working in PCars2. But this seems to be a general Fanatec problem as far as I could read in other forums. I could solve it by not using the V2.5-preset but just a custom setup.
The only thing I couldn't figure out, is the Comp-V2.5 Mode. I have the BMW GT2 rim and the Formula Black rim. Neither do the two Playstation-mode buttons described in the respective manuals work nor do the buttons work which are shown here in the video (3:37 / 4:09)
Anyone out there who already switched modes with one of these rims? :-S
Overall, I'm very happy with my DD1 so far! Good bye Logitech G27! :-h
TO ALL HAVING V3i & V3 PEDAL ISSUES AFTER UPDATING DD2/DD1/PS4 WHEEL BASES... RE-FLASH YOUR PEDAL FW.
My pedals are Hard mounted and hard to get to and I use My pedals through the wheel base...I suggest leaving a USB cord in you pedals for future pedal FW update purposes...Just make sure that your wheel base is OFF before plugging your pedals into PC to update/Flash them Pedals can Not be Plugged into your wheel when its On and PC at the same time.
TO ALL HAVING V3i & V3 PEDAL ISSUES AFTER UPDATING DD2/DD1/PS4 WHEEL BASES... RE-FLASH YOUR PEDAL FW.
My pedals are Hard mounted and hard to get to and I use My pedals through the wheel base...I suggest leaving a USB cord in you pedals for future pedal FW update purposes...Just make sure that your wheel base is OFF before plugging your pedals into PC to update/Flash them Pedals can Not be Plugged into your wheel when its On and PC at the same time.
Dunno what you're talking about, I've got V3i pedals and they were on firmware 1.3, tried to update and they were still 1.3.
Are you suggesting that the DD firmware update corrupts the pedal firmware?
Stupid question that nobody will be thinking about right now, but... the base it's fan pulls air through the base from the front around the motor shaft. There's a carbon filter around it. Can this filter be cleaned and/or replaced in say 1 or 2 years when it's been sucking a fair bit of dust?
Another question about the fan. It blows the hot air from the motor out of the base but the electronics are in the base. Won't this generate heat around the electronics that could potentially damage them?
I would have thought it does exactly the opposite to what you say Paul: It takes heat generated by the electronics and removes much of it by blowing the warm air out of the base. After all, it's an exhaust system, not an intake.
I don't know Josh, hence my question, I am not exactly sure where the fan is situated so I don't know if it is pulling hot air from the motor over the electronics on the way through. I am sure that fanatec have it nutted out so it does what it is meant to though.
Does someone got the shift lights and display working in games (assetto corsa) ? My 918 wheel leds where working fine ingame with CSW2.5 but now with the DD1 they are not working. Also reinstalled fanaleds and mijn firmware is up to date (when testing in the fanatec driver software they work).
And Forza Horizon 4 doesn't recognize my DD1, other games (assetto corsa) are fine. Anyone already tried a Forza game ?
hi, yes horizon4 works great with dd1. be sure you are in v2 comp mode. pc mode didnt work yet.
I'm a bit disappointed... I thought DD quick release would have zero flex. Anyone know if it's possible to get a longer safety screw? Originals that come with the wheels are to short. And yes i have tighten the rubber damper. No matter how much i tighten it, it still have some flex. Tried with 6 different wheels.
thats weird, i have zero flex with universal hub and dd1. you need a lot of pressure for the last few centimeters, if the quikrelease snaps into his position your wheel sit right. then just tight the golden ring, here you also need lot of force. zero flex. first time i did, i did it wrong, not strong enough pressure. hold end of base with left hand, and press with right hand. like if you want to squeeze someones head. with this method you can build up enough force.
I'm a bit disappointed... I thought DD quick release would have zero flex. Anyone know if it's possible to get a longer safety screw? Originals that come with the wheels are to short. And yes i have tighten the rubber damper. No matter how much i tighten it, it still have some flex. Tried with 6 different wheels.
thats weird, i have zero flex with universal hub and dd1. you need a lot of pressure for the last few centimeters, if the quikrelease snaps into his position your wheel sit right. then just tight the golden ring, here you also need lot of force. zero flex. first time i did, i did it wrong, not strong enough pressure. hold end of base with left hand, and press with right hand. like if you want to squeeze someones head. with this method you can build up enough force.
It's like Ingo Paulowicz wrote on first page. It always has a little flex. Hold it with both hands and than push one side then the other. You will feel it. I saw a lot of people now reporting this also. That's why you will hear rattling with intense vibrations. I need saftey screw so i can fix wheel to the shaft like on csw 2.5.
im riding the dd1 with universal hub + 30∅ rim. driving at 10nm since 3 days now, i have no rattling or vibrations or flex on the wheel. the dd1 performs super strong, butter smooth and silent.
maybe i just have luck? remember the first video from shawn cole, he was wondering why the wheel dont work...... he just forget to plug in the usb cable to the computer...... i think there are lot more people out there^^ so probably its not ALWAYS the fault of the hardware.
here is my problem, the PSU make nasty sounds. it start noising when plug in the power cable.
when i turn on the base the noise gets louder and change frequency. if i start turning the wheel the noise becomes louder and rise frquency till a point where the psu becomes silent without any noise. the psu stop screaming when a force of ca 7nm is reached.
under 7nm nasty noises, over 7nm absolute silence.
if it would be the other way i would dont care because when driving i hear the game sound.
TO ALL HAVING V3i & V3 PEDAL ISSUES AFTER UPDATING DD2/DD1/PS4 WHEEL BASES... RE-FLASH YOUR PEDAL FW.
My pedals are Hard mounted and hard to get to and I use My pedals through the wheel base...I suggest leaving a USB cord in you pedals for future pedal FW update purposes...Just make sure that your wheel base is OFF before plugging your pedals into PC to update/Flash them Pedals can Not be Plugged into your wheel when its On and PC at the same time.
Dunno what you're talking about, I've got V3i pedals and they were on firmware 1.3, tried to update and they were still 1.3.
Are you suggesting that the DD firmware update corrupts the pedal firmware?
I don't know what happens... But many times even though I have the latest FW when I unplug My pedals or even when I just recently I added the v1.5 HB the HB Nor the pedals would read correctly... I simply re-flashed the pedal FW and all is working well again... Also A few other people on a different forum the reported the pedals acting weird with pedal inputs reversed... Once they did a pedal Re-Flash all is working well again.... What's Going on don't know but a Pedal FW Flash gets things straight again.... Simple Solutions are best.
After reading about your experiences und using today's official holiday to mount and try my DD1, i'd like to share my own experiences:
I don't have any flex in the system. In contrast, I have to use my full force to install the rims. No matter if the nut is loose or just as much tightened that the rubber stays in place but is not compressed... I have to press very strongly to make the QR snap in. Switching rims isn't fun this way but on the other hand, no flex at all...
PSU noise is noticeable but doesn't bother me right now as the PSU lies behind the LCD and the game sound is louder.
I also sense the slight vibration in the base while holding the rim but I don't see a problem there because game effects are much more intense.
Turning off with power button works.
It took me so long to get my shifter pedals working in PCars2. But this seems to be a general Fanatec problem as far as I could read in other forums. I could solve it by not using the V2.5-preset but just a custom setup.
The only thing I couldn't figure out, is the Comp-V2.5 Mode. I have the BMW GT2 rim and the Formula Black rim. Neither do the two Playstation-mode buttons described in the respective manuals work nor do the buttons work which are shown here in the video (3:37 / 4:09)
Anyone out there who already switched modes with one of these rims? :-S
Overall, I'm very happy with my DD1 so far! Good bye Logitech G27! :-h
I can mirror your experiences 100%.
I have to push the Wheel on with substantial force. No Flex in the Rim at all. I tried flexing it in all directions. It just sits extreemly tight even without the rubber ring quenched.
I am even thinking of applying somekind of grease to it, because it fits so tight. But i will wait till someone or fanatec will give a Statement regarding potential rubber Damage in combination with certain types of grease/lube. I know that some rubber/lube/grease combination can be quiet destructive.
Out of curiosity, I aligned the wheel and ran the motor alignment tests. The zero on it looks perfect within the driver software, but when I turn the wheel base on, it proceeds to rotate 30 or so degrees to the right and then rotates back towards zero and slowly stops at like +6 degrees. Anyone else have this issue? Not sure it's really affecting anything but it doesn't go back to zero. I can manually rotate it back to zero and the driver software shows it at zero when I do so.
i noticed that also last night. i saw the solution with increasing spr setting but its already at 100 to begin with. I am not worried about it thou, i am in vr and i did not notice anything until I was not wearing the headset. Im sure that will get fixed if there is an issue.
Out of curiosity, I aligned the wheel and ran the motor alignment tests. The zero on it looks perfect within the driver software, but when I turn the wheel base on, it proceeds to rotate 30 or so degrees to the right and then rotates back towards zero and slowly stops at like +6 degrees. Anyone else have this issue? Not sure it's really affecting anything but it doesn't go back to zero. I can manually rotate it back to zero and the driver software shows it at zero when I do so.
i noticed that also last night. i saw the solution with increasing spr setting but its already at 100 to begin with. I am not worried about it thou, i am in vr and i did not notice anything until I was not wearing the headset. Im sure that will get fixed if there is an issue.
I have the same effect. But to be honest, I didn't realise it until you wrote it. For me it's just an effect but no issue, as my DD2 works perfectly.
here is my problem, the PSU make nasty sounds. it start noising when plug in the power cable.
when i turn on the base the noise gets louder and change frequency. if i start turning the wheel the noise becomes louder and rise frquency till a point where the psu becomes silent without any noise. the psu stop screaming when a force of ca 7nm is reached.
under 7nm nasty noises, over 7nm absolute silence.
if it would be the other way i would dont care because when driving i hear the game sound.
i think this is not normal.
short video of the psu noise problem.
Hi Mario,
Just curious are you plugged into a power bar or directly into the wall?
Comments
I connected the ClubSport Shifter, using the original RJ11, to the port labelled "Shifter 1".
The quickguide states that Shifter 1 is for shifters in "H-pattern mode or SQ mode" (moving it to Shifter 2 to see if that would fix the issue was worse).
Has anyone else ran into this issue?
I've done this often with my CSW after each firmware update but the DD1 doesn't yield the same results. I am probably just missing a simple step somewhere but if I am, it's possible that others are as well and this might help them.
Yeah shifter 2 is really only for the static paddles. It's sequential only. Port 1 is the correct one.
I have DD1 and I connected my v3i with the new cable but I encounter some problems ... every now and then I run the brake at 100% and the steering wheel motors vibrate ... I looked in the control panel and saw the brake pressed at 100% but it is totally released in more vibrates abs sensor and the steering wheel. I have to turn off and on again and for a while it goes ... I tried now to unplug the cable from the pedals to the base and connect it via usb and it seems to work everything .. has anyone already happened? I noticed that on the trunks and wheel alignment the pedals are inverted from 100% to 0 and I have to select inverted ... I am satisfied with the product and I think it is a problem of young drivers or firmware ... I have a f1 2018 limited as a steering wheel Pedal board V3I driver 334 firmware 1.30 DD1 Driver 334 Wheel base firmware 651 wheel base motor firmware 29 stering wheel firmware 27 before it arrived podium I had formatted and the new drivers I had installed them as soon as I arrived. I tried to uninstall the drivers and reinstall them but the problem of the pedals remains connected to the base I continue to test it without connection to the baseTurning off with power button works.