Has anyone else who had the issue where the wheel pulls to one side tried 457 and the hotfix? I’ve done about 30 hours and not had a single issue. I haven’t had the disconnect for a few seconds issue that most people had but I know at least one other person had the same as me going on.
@Maurice Böschen if the RMA responded to support tickets in a reasonable time frame my base might have been back already to investigate. If the coil whine I submitted 13 days ago is a valid reason for an exchange then mine can be exchanged and used as the test case as mine reboots regularly on all firmware versions.
Normal when connected via RJ12 to the base, its like this since forever as pedal firmware can only be read when pedals are connected via USB to the PC, as also explained in the firmware manager.
I’m wondering if there is batch of power supply issues? Coil whine is a PS symptom, correct? Maybe the PS can’t fully supply the demand and that’s part of the disconnect issue? Or poor dc filtering is causing some interference. Is anyone seeing fewer/no disconnects w FF or FOR turned way down? Otherwise a PS swap would be the only way to tell. Got a friend w a working unit?
This is also the case with my v3 pedals, when I installed 457 they started showing firmware 0 and are connected with usb. I have been trying to reproduce the issue I had yesterday but haven't been able to. I'd also like to say my issue was more of the wheel freezing on a number with the 3 yellow LEDs on, and when I opened the fanatec configuration software it seemed like the wheel kept connecting and disconnecting but never successfully stayed connected, it just kept connecting,disconnecting,connecting, etc. until I turned the base off completely.
@Maurice Boschen, I have sent Marcel a video of my base not de-energising when I enter the pits in GT 7. The result is something similar to the issue I was having where I got disconnects and the wheel pulled to one side. As soon as I loose control of the car the wheel will pull to which ever side I was turning at the time of entry.
Just a side note on the issue of disconnect and the wheel pulling to one side, I have been running 457 with the hotfix and I’m around 35 hours playtime in without any issue. Although this issue of what happens in the pits is still there and was there on 455 and 456 too.
Thats the known firmware issue which is listed for some years in the known issue list:
When entering a game menu while driving it can happen in some games that the FFB effect doesn't get canceled which results in the wheel turning to one side. (this got now fixed for the Podium DD but can still happen on the CSL DD. We will now apply the fix for the CSL DD as well).
This issue is also happening on CS DD and the same fix of the P DD is going to be applied to the CS DD as well at some point in the future.
Not all those with disconnect issues have coil whine. My DD+ is dead silent, no coil whine even if I place my ear right on the base. But I have disconnect issues with 456 and 457 as well as the hotfix. Not a single disconnect on 455. So in my case, I really do think it’s a firmware problem and not a hardware problem.
I have exactly the same problem with my DD+. I upgraded my PC and install new OS and because the Fanatec driver was also needed I wanted to have the latest one. Installed 456 and the firmware successfully. Today after some time not playing, I started ACC and in my first race near the end of it, the wheel died, Formula v2.5X. No FFB, no response at pressing buttons and the LCD stuck at 265km/h and RPM LEDs full enable. Never happen this event with 455 driver and this was first race with driver 456.
In the Fanatec Control Panel all was connected but not the wheel. I accessed the Firmware Update tab and the Quick Release Firmware was in red and labeled as firmware update required. Pressed the Open Firmware Manager button and there was all OK. No firmware update requested. I switched off and on the base and all was back to normal. All connected and all the software up-to-date.
So I also believe is a software issue. I installed now 457 but from the topic comments I realize the problem is still present. Hope they will find the solution.
@Howard Heisler: 457 fixed the connection problems on the CS DD/+. This is not the same connection problem as before! 455 and 456 have a connection problem withWQR modul (shut-off), you had to restart the base. 457 fixed this with the new WQR & Base firmware, but the base firmware seems to have a new bug where the USB connection lost for a short time and then automatically reconnects, but only on some CS DD Devices. This is not the same bug!! For me it works fine with 457 Base firmware and WQR Firmware. No one USB disconnection on PC and Xbox X.
Best solution at the moment: Installing the WQR Firmware from 457 and Base Firmware from 455.
@Gokhan Whether it is the same problem or a variation of it or different, it is still a bad problem. Most people seem to have it with the PS5 which is why you are satisfied with it.
I think there are several groupings of issues, maybe due to production lot variations or quality issues.
I have a recently purchased DD+ and with either 455 or 457 totally fine on PS5. No disconnects or other issues mentioned. No problems flashing the FW. Using the provided cable and a 1m USB 3 extender to the back ports. Podium hub, PBME, CSPV3 inverted, SQ shifter and HB
But 457 did reduce and numb the feedback noticeably. For me Base from 455 and WQR from 457 is the best so far. But having read the entire thread I still wonder if power issues could possibly be contributing based on the feedback in some of the cases
I had a couple of the freezing issues with all 457 FW on GT7 PS5, like in the the vid I posted on second page of this thread, that recovered itself. But I was using sleep mode on PS5 at the time and I had also changed over to using rear USB port which I had never done before.
I also had one "disconnect" with 457 FW like I with 456 and 455 FW (with 1.0.0.7 WQR FW), but that was in between single player races in the menus. Jumped in race and wheel was disconnected, nothing worked. Had to reboot the wheel twice to get it to work again.
Then after that I started shutting down PS5 completely when I saw that could be an issue, and also went back to using front USB port (no extensions), and raced one day for several hours with zero issues.
Haven't been able to play a lot or test lately. So I just hooked GT DD X back up to PC and installed the "CS_DD_v2.1.0.4_hotfix_disconnection_issue_test_release.eff" FW and hopefully going to be able to test that out soon.
Is that test FW just the 455 driver wheelbase 2.1.0.4 FW or is it different in some way? Just wondering.
For me so far it seems not using sleep on PS5 and using front USB port gives most stability so far.
Hopefully the next time I can play it goes as well as the last time which was perfect, and I was using high FFB in GT7 and on wheel that day.
With 455 FW and 1.0.0.7 WQR FW it was ok for several weeks until I started using 10 on bottom slider (Sensitivity) in GT7 and then I started getting lots of disconnects.
Not sure if that is related or just a coincidence but for me it made disconnects a lot more frequent. It does feel like more information is being put through the FFB with that setting on 10 than say 5 or below which is what I was using on 455 FW (and 1.0.0.7 WQR FW) when I had the least disconnects.. Again who knows if that has anything to do with it.
I'm also curious about the wireless QR. What band of radio frequency is it using? How much power? Is it digital or analog? Could there be interference from someone's radio frequency environment in their homes? Could the wheel used make a difference if it is carbon or has a lot of metal in it? I'm not an expert in that stuff but I learned a lot about radio studying for HAM license (never took test). And also learned a lot about it flying RC planes with custom FPV setups. I'm just wondering if radio interference could be an issue for the Wireless QR. Sometimes frequencies can bounce off metal surfaces (reflectors) and double or cancel each other out or otherwise scramble a signal. Or if the signal is too strong it can overload the receiver. I'm just curious about that.
@Alan - I RMA'd mine due to Coil Whine, took 21 days until I had a response and given an RMA. I sent them a few weeks ago, waiting for an outcome on what is happening about them either fixing or replacing
As long as it comes back quieter than what it was after 20-30 minutes of use I'll be happy
In case it helps, I've had all kinds of trouble with my 2 DD+ Extreme wheels when using long(er) USB extension cables connected to the PS5 rear. I solved most of my problems by switching to the following USB hardware:
1) 2 meter 20Gbps USB-C cable connected to the PS5 front
2) StarTech.com 4-Port USB C Hub - USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) - 3x USB-A & 1x USB-C - Powered
Since switching to this, I've had just 1 wheel crash in 1 month, doing split screen racing with 2 DD+ Extreme wheels in Gran Turismo.
Running on 455 atm. Since it's running fine now I'm not going to upgrade until all issues seem to be fully resolved.
The important thing to take away from this is (as is well known) that USB extension cables and also low(er) quality USB hubs can cause serious problems. So anyone who has problems, please try to get rid of USB extension cables and hubs as much as possible, and if it can't be avoided switch to the best quality and shortest length cables/hubs possible.
I leave my PS5 in rest mode, so it will get updates, but after each session, I close the game, disconnect base USB and power supply AC power cord as I have to move the rig. So game gets a fresh start and so does the base.
how did you guys release a product this bad? like how do you even do that? people seem to "trust the professionals at fanatec" to fix this problem, but the same "professionals" released this product in the first place. ridiculous
ok, you did not yet manage to reproduce this issue internally yet, which we understand.
in the meantime, us affected users, what shall we do?
relax and wait? do you think this is acceptable?
It's like buying a new car, drive a couple of meters and randomly it stops. I call agent and they tell me 'sorry, we don't know what's wrong with your car, as our cars are working fine, sorry.'
obviously this is not the way it should be or should have been.
Of course it is not the way it should be but unfortunately it is like this atm and all we can do is to apologize (which we did several times already) and ask for your patience as further investigations, including analyzing bases of affected customers, are ongoing, which just takes time and cant be done over night.
Comments
Has anyone else who had the issue where the wheel pulls to one side tried 457 and the hotfix? I’ve done about 30 hours and not had a single issue. I haven’t had the disconnect for a few seconds issue that most people had but I know at least one other person had the same as me going on.
@Maurice Böschen if the RMA responded to support tickets in a reasonable time frame my base might have been back already to investigate. If the coil whine I submitted 13 days ago is a valid reason for an exchange then mine can be exchanged and used as the test case as mine reboots regularly on all firmware versions.
@Alan I here you man, its insane how something like this can be still going on. At its almost sounding like its actually ae fault!!
My v3 pedal are showing has having no firmware
Normal when connected via RJ12 to the base, its like this since forever as pedal firmware can only be read when pedals are connected via USB to the PC, as also explained in the firmware manager.
they connected via usb and showing 0 firmware
Then idk.
It's only since I've installed these drivers pedal work ok ish maybe I'll try and reinstall the drivers
I’m wondering if there is batch of power supply issues? Coil whine is a PS symptom, correct? Maybe the PS can’t fully supply the demand and that’s part of the disconnect issue? Or poor dc filtering is causing some interference. Is anyone seeing fewer/no disconnects w FF or FOR turned way down? Otherwise a PS swap would be the only way to tell. Got a friend w a working unit?
This is also the case with my v3 pedals, when I installed 457 they started showing firmware 0 and are connected with usb. I have been trying to reproduce the issue I had yesterday but haven't been able to. I'd also like to say my issue was more of the wheel freezing on a number with the 3 yellow LEDs on, and when I opened the fanatec configuration software it seemed like the wheel kept connecting and disconnecting but never successfully stayed connected, it just kept connecting,disconnecting,connecting, etc. until I turned the base off completely.
@Maurice Boschen, I have sent Marcel a video of my base not de-energising when I enter the pits in GT 7. The result is something similar to the issue I was having where I got disconnects and the wheel pulled to one side. As soon as I loose control of the car the wheel will pull to which ever side I was turning at the time of entry.
This is a link to the video,
https://share.icloud.com/photos/081EaatEW8GVMGlH3MG2H8Ugw
Just a side note on the issue of disconnect and the wheel pulling to one side, I have been running 457 with the hotfix and I’m around 35 hours playtime in without any issue. Although this issue of what happens in the pits is still there and was there on 455 and 456 too.
Thats the known firmware issue which is listed for some years in the known issue list:
When entering a game menu while driving it can happen in some games that the FFB effect doesn't get canceled which results in the wheel turning to one side. (this got now fixed for the Podium DD but can still happen on the CSL DD. We will now apply the fix for the CSL DD as well).
This issue is also happening on CS DD and the same fix of the P DD is going to be applied to the CS DD as well at some point in the future.
@Neil Reuben
Not all those with disconnect issues have coil whine. My DD+ is dead silent, no coil whine even if I place my ear right on the base. But I have disconnect issues with 456 and 457 as well as the hotfix. Not a single disconnect on 455. So in my case, I really do think it’s a firmware problem and not a hardware problem.
Cool. I wasn’t aware of that.
I have exactly the same problem with my DD+. I upgraded my PC and install new OS and because the Fanatec driver was also needed I wanted to have the latest one. Installed 456 and the firmware successfully. Today after some time not playing, I started ACC and in my first race near the end of it, the wheel died, Formula v2.5X. No FFB, no response at pressing buttons and the LCD stuck at 265km/h and RPM LEDs full enable. Never happen this event with 455 driver and this was first race with driver 456.
In the Fanatec Control Panel all was connected but not the wheel. I accessed the Firmware Update tab and the Quick Release Firmware was in red and labeled as firmware update required. Pressed the Open Firmware Manager button and there was all OK. No firmware update requested. I switched off and on the base and all was back to normal. All connected and all the software up-to-date.
So I also believe is a software issue. I installed now 457 but from the topic comments I realize the problem is still present. Hope they will find the solution.
@Howard Heisler: 457 fixed the connection problems on the CS DD/+. This is not the same connection problem as before! 455 and 456 have a connection problem withWQR modul (shut-off), you had to restart the base. 457 fixed this with the new WQR & Base firmware, but the base firmware seems to have a new bug where the USB connection lost for a short time and then automatically reconnects, but only on some CS DD Devices. This is not the same bug!! For me it works fine with 457 Base firmware and WQR Firmware. No one USB disconnection on PC and Xbox X.
Best solution at the moment: Installing the WQR Firmware from 457 and Base Firmware from 455.
@Gokhan Ogul
Thanks for the good news. I will try it and I will come back with a feedback over USB connection.
@Gokhan Whether it is the same problem or a variation of it or different, it is still a bad problem. Most people seem to have it with the PS5 which is why you are satisfied with it.
I think there are several groupings of issues, maybe due to production lot variations or quality issues.
I have a recently purchased DD+ and with either 455 or 457 totally fine on PS5. No disconnects or other issues mentioned. No problems flashing the FW. Using the provided cable and a 1m USB 3 extender to the back ports. Podium hub, PBME, CSPV3 inverted, SQ shifter and HB
But 457 did reduce and numb the feedback noticeably. For me Base from 455 and WQR from 457 is the best so far. But having read the entire thread I still wonder if power issues could possibly be contributing based on the feedback in some of the cases
GT DD X, PS5, GT7
I had a couple of the freezing issues with all 457 FW on GT7 PS5, like in the the vid I posted on second page of this thread, that recovered itself. But I was using sleep mode on PS5 at the time and I had also changed over to using rear USB port which I had never done before.
I also had one "disconnect" with 457 FW like I with 456 and 455 FW (with 1.0.0.7 WQR FW), but that was in between single player races in the menus. Jumped in race and wheel was disconnected, nothing worked. Had to reboot the wheel twice to get it to work again.
Then after that I started shutting down PS5 completely when I saw that could be an issue, and also went back to using front USB port (no extensions), and raced one day for several hours with zero issues.
Haven't been able to play a lot or test lately. So I just hooked GT DD X back up to PC and installed the "CS_DD_v2.1.0.4_hotfix_disconnection_issue_test_release.eff" FW and hopefully going to be able to test that out soon.
Is that test FW just the 455 driver wheelbase 2.1.0.4 FW or is it different in some way? Just wondering.
For me so far it seems not using sleep on PS5 and using front USB port gives most stability so far.
Hopefully the next time I can play it goes as well as the last time which was perfect, and I was using high FFB in GT7 and on wheel that day.
With 455 FW and 1.0.0.7 WQR FW it was ok for several weeks until I started using 10 on bottom slider (Sensitivity) in GT7 and then I started getting lots of disconnects.
Not sure if that is related or just a coincidence but for me it made disconnects a lot more frequent. It does feel like more information is being put through the FFB with that setting on 10 than say 5 or below which is what I was using on 455 FW (and 1.0.0.7 WQR FW) when I had the least disconnects.. Again who knows if that has anything to do with it.
I'm also curious about the wireless QR. What band of radio frequency is it using? How much power? Is it digital or analog? Could there be interference from someone's radio frequency environment in their homes? Could the wheel used make a difference if it is carbon or has a lot of metal in it? I'm not an expert in that stuff but I learned a lot about radio studying for HAM license (never took test). And also learned a lot about it flying RC planes with custom FPV setups. I'm just wondering if radio interference could be an issue for the Wireless QR. Sometimes frequencies can bounce off metal surfaces (reflectors) and double or cancel each other out or otherwise scramble a signal. Or if the signal is too strong it can overload the receiver. I'm just curious about that.
@Alan - I RMA'd mine due to Coil Whine, took 21 days until I had a response and given an RMA. I sent them a few weeks ago, waiting for an outcome on what is happening about them either fixing or replacing
As long as it comes back quieter than what it was after 20-30 minutes of use I'll be happy
Update on above, looks like a replacement unit is being sent to me
In case it helps, I've had all kinds of trouble with my 2 DD+ Extreme wheels when using long(er) USB extension cables connected to the PS5 rear. I solved most of my problems by switching to the following USB hardware:
1) 2 meter 20Gbps USB-C cable connected to the PS5 front
2) StarTech.com 4-Port USB C Hub - USB 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) - 3x USB-A & 1x USB-C - Powered
Since switching to this, I've had just 1 wheel crash in 1 month, doing split screen racing with 2 DD+ Extreme wheels in Gran Turismo.
Running on 455 atm. Since it's running fine now I'm not going to upgrade until all issues seem to be fully resolved.
The important thing to take away from this is (as is well known) that USB extension cables and also low(er) quality USB hubs can cause serious problems. So anyone who has problems, please try to get rid of USB extension cables and hubs as much as possible, and if it can't be avoided switch to the best quality and shortest length cables/hubs possible.
I leave my PS5 in rest mode, so it will get updates, but after each session, I close the game, disconnect base USB and power supply AC power cord as I have to move the rig. So game gets a fresh start and so does the base.
@Brett it’s called a WQR chip but ironically it isn’t wireless.
how did you guys release a product this bad? like how do you even do that? people seem to "trust the professionals at fanatec" to fix this problem, but the same "professionals" released this product in the first place. ridiculous
Because the issue STILL can not be reproduced on now several dozens of internal units.
So when the issue does not happen internally, then stuff gets released.
ok, you did not yet manage to reproduce this issue internally yet, which we understand.
in the meantime, us affected users, what shall we do?
relax and wait? do you think this is acceptable?
It's like buying a new car, drive a couple of meters and randomly it stops. I call agent and they tell me 'sorry, we don't know what's wrong with your car, as our cars are working fine, sorry.'
obviously this is not the way it should be or should have been.
@ Howard
I was wondering, thanks for info. I was picturing some kind of custom high speed, low latency transmitter/ receiver setup internally.
Of course it is not the way it should be but unfortunately it is like this atm and all we can do is to apologize (which we did several times already) and ask for your patience as further investigations, including analyzing bases of affected customers, are ongoing, which just takes time and cant be done over night.