I’m getting my DD2 Wheel base hopefully by Friday and was wondering which driver is currently the best one to use. Is there anything I should know when setting up the base/wheel to avoid any problems? I’m going to use my Porsche 918 RSR Wheel, ClubSport pedal V3 and the shifter SQ 1.5. Has there been a problem with flexing of the quick connection in regards to the pins in the hub plug ? Thanks
I have been using my DD2 base for about two months now. I have noticed that twice the base has completely shut off in the middle of a race. Also after a 30 minute race the outside of my base is 110 degrees fahrenheit. Is this normal?
110 fahrenheit is not an issue, did you measure it by yourself? important is the motor temp and so on offered by the base info screen but this is shown in °C usually being significantly lower than 100°C. A temperature of 110°Celcius would be relatively high but would not lead to damage, shut down or reduce of power.
I measure the temp with an infrared thermometer . I live in the United States so that is why I used fahrenheit. I just wanted to make sure there is not something wrong with my base.
Hi have the same problem with my DD1 Base like other users....
Last two days, while I was driving in Iracing inthe middle of a race, The base stopped working, equally the pedals, the OLED display was ON but I couldn´t turn the base off becasue It didn´t answer...
the fanalab softwer didn´t answer either so I had to disconnect the plug from the wall to respond.
Please gice me a solution, this hardware worth a lot of money for these issues.
Thanks for the report, I'm currently gathering as much information as I can about this issue as it started to pop up just a couple of days ago even though the driver is out for much longer. If you are noticing any patterns which could help with finding the root cause let me know.
I have the same problem. Last Saturday while driving the Porsche Cayman GT4 on the Nordschleife in iRacing the wheel (DD1 PS4 with Porsche Rim BME) pulled very strong to the left. Inputs stopped working, power button at the back neither. So I unplugged USB + Power and plugged it back in. Then I could finish the race. I also noticed (don't know if it was present before or just started then) that the wheel (while under power) always appears to have a center spring, even when I'm not running a game, in Windows. The big problem now is that the base and wheel don't show up in my devices anymore. They briefly showed up when I switched the USB-ports but Windows came up with a message that it couldn't finish installing the device and I should restart Windows. After that the entry in my device list is gone again. I tried different drivers, I uninstalled recent Windows updates but nothing's changed.
When this is happening, the shifters doesn't work.
Maybe there is a way to save the wheel log from the race and using the replay(I can tell you the exactly moment when happens) you could figure out the reason.
The permanent center spring is happening because the wheel isn't communicating with the driver, leave the base on and plugged in while running the repair function of the driver installer, this should help.
That sounds to me that the Wheelbase is limitated if I use the official Driver.
Thanks to your Answer Maurice!
Than I would like to hear some words from an official Fanatec Representive: At which time do you think that the Drivers that are necessary to use the Wheelbase without any disatvantages are officially licenced?
Because the money I´ve paid for it was definitly not a Beta Version, it was the lastest stable Version!
I did not plan to get a Beta Tester when I ordered a €1199.- Wheelbase!
It has nothing to do with buying into a beta test, we've recognized there are some improvements we can make to the FFB and add some features people where asking for since the release. So we did that, but sadly it came with some issues like the jolts, now we want to solve them. I don't know exactly when those issues are solved, I can't foresee the future. Most of the current issues are happening only for some of the user base and random without an easy way to reproduce them which makes them hard to solve and is the reason why it takes us longer to solve them as for other issues in the past.
Well, when the DD1 arrives at my place i will compare the usability of the licended v.335 with the latest beta driver.
When i feel that there is a big difference between those, i think i am gonna send the wheelbase back, as i am not willing to use a beta driver in daily usage.
I read your words Marcel about this is not a beta test, but to be honest when i look at the thing that v.335 is the official driver nearly since the release and none of the beta drivers which were released meanwhile has made it to an official one....
When i see a bird that looks like a duck, sounds like a duck and swims like a duck, i call it a duck!
When using DD2 wheel in iracing with recommended settings (90%ffb) when i hit something or do test in driver for ffb it makes really noisy sound like something metallic inside is it normal? thanks in advance for help.
My wheel keeps going dead on me mid race. It's happened 4 times now in about 10 hours of racing. The power stays on but it simply disconnects from my PC. No buttons work and of course I crash and lose a ton on IR in iRacing. I'm ready to sell it because I see this is happeneing to a lot of people with no resolve.
I'm using a DD1, Podium Porsche Gt3 wheel, and driver 353. Wheel base firmware:670 Motor: 38, Steering Wheel: 1
This happens to me also, when using the Universal XBox Hub. Doesnt do it with my F1 2019 LE rim.
Both are done up correctly (taking up the rubber slack before putting the wheel on) and even using 3D printed wrench to get the clamp tight.
Typically happens in AC, especially on Spa, when a wheel might go over these steps on the side of a ripple strip shown below at Raidillon Eau Rouge, and especially on Turn 8 Les Comb (couldn't find a photo quickly - but there is a large edge if you slightly cut the corner)
I have a DD1 mounted with porsche 991GT3 R and run driver 356
I have the same problem in iRacing. It start with some times it feels like hit something invisible on track. For a millisecond the wheel is gone and then come back.
It starts like this for about a week and then first the podium bottun module freezes. Some minuts later the wheel pulled very strong to the left. After about 10 sec the wheel base come back and I could drive again. But the was smash though, so I quit.
In Fanalab i can only see the DD1 and and the podium hub.
I then reinstall drivers, restart pc, install drives again and all work again for about a month..........
Both are done up correctly ( even taking outp the rubber slack before putting the wheel on)
This have happen 3 times for me this year. It first started with driver 356
Shall i go back to driver 346 and will the podium bottun module work with that?
bo, it wont work with driver 346, you need at least driver 352 for that. Your issue is reported and currently under heavy investigation. You should contact @Marcel Pfister to report him details.
Comments
Everyone can use Beta 1.23 or 1.24
Thank you so much Maurice.
I’m getting my DD2 Wheel base hopefully by Friday and was wondering which driver is currently the best one to use. Is there anything I should know when setting up the base/wheel to avoid any problems? I’m going to use my Porsche 918 RSR Wheel, ClubSport pedal V3 and the shifter SQ 1.5. Has there been a problem with flexing of the quick connection in regards to the pins in the hub plug ? Thanks
I have been using my DD2 base for about two months now. I have noticed that twice the base has completely shut off in the middle of a race. Also after a 30 minute race the outside of my base is 110 degrees fahrenheit. Is this normal?
Is this the new QR:
110 fahrenheit is not an issue, did you measure it by yourself? important is the motor temp and so on offered by the base info screen but this is shown in °C usually being significantly lower than 100°C. A temperature of 110°Celcius would be relatively high but would not lead to damage, shut down or reduce of power.
I measure the temp with an infrared thermometer . I live in the United States so that is why I used fahrenheit. I just wanted to make sure there is not something wrong with my base.
perfectly fine
Did you ever get this resolved? I am having the same issue with my DD2.
Hi Robert, I read in other post in here at the fanatec forum "https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-podium-direct-drive-wheel-bases-thread.358875/page-118#post-13021609". you can try to leave unplug the Power supply for 24 hours and plug again, Maybe your case is the same of others who posted the problem.
Thank you for the reply. I have tried that and it didn't resolve the issue.
Hi have the same problem with my DD1 Base like other users....
Last two days, while I was driving in Iracing inthe middle of a race, The base stopped working, equally the pedals, the OLED display was ON but I couldn´t turn the base off becasue It didn´t answer...
the fanalab softwer didn´t answer either so I had to disconnect the plug from the wall to respond.
Please gice me a solution, this hardware worth a lot of money for these issues.
Since I updated my base to the PBME I'm facing some issues.
It's no constant, I can't replicated it when I want.
But, during the races the steering wheels turns to a different side or even in a straight, the steering wheels moves to a direction.
Sometimes, is like no force is being applied. Everything happens in 1 or 2 seconds and then, return to normal.
I'm using all the latest drivers and firmware.
My base is plugged in to the outlet only during the racing sessions.
I don't play more than 1:30h daily.
My ffb is set like the settings provided by Fanatec for IRacing( 6 and 20nm). 40% at the Base.
Regards
Marcelo
Thanks for the report, I'm currently gathering as much information as I can about this issue as it started to pop up just a couple of days ago even though the driver is out for much longer. If you are noticing any patterns which could help with finding the root cause let me know.
I have the same problem. Last Saturday while driving the Porsche Cayman GT4 on the Nordschleife in iRacing the wheel (DD1 PS4 with Porsche Rim BME) pulled very strong to the left. Inputs stopped working, power button at the back neither. So I unplugged USB + Power and plugged it back in. Then I could finish the race. I also noticed (don't know if it was present before or just started then) that the wheel (while under power) always appears to have a center spring, even when I'm not running a game, in Windows. The big problem now is that the base and wheel don't show up in my devices anymore. They briefly showed up when I switched the USB-ports but Windows came up with a message that it couldn't finish installing the device and I should restart Windows. After that the entry in my device list is gone again. I tried different drivers, I uninstalled recent Windows updates but nothing's changed.
Yes I will.
Until now, is happened every race.
When this is happening, the shifters doesn't work.
Maybe there is a way to save the wheel log from the race and using the replay(I can tell you the exactly moment when happens) you could figure out the reason.
But is very annoying.
The permanent center spring is happening because the wheel isn't communicating with the driver, leave the base on and plugged in while running the repair function of the driver installer, this should help.
Hallo,
I´ve ordered a DD1 Wheelbase and before setting it up I have got some questions:
What is the Reason that I should use a Beta Driver instead of the latest licenced one?
Is there any limitation in the usability of the wheelbase when not using a Beta Driver?
The newest beta drivers are just waaaaaaaaay more advanced and give you a much better FFB overall and faster response time.
That sounds to me that the Wheelbase is limitated if I use the official Driver.
Thanks to your Answer Maurice!
Than I would like to hear some words from an official Fanatec Representive: At which time do you think that the Drivers that are necessary to use the Wheelbase without any disatvantages are officially licenced?
Because the money I´ve paid for it was definitly not a Beta Version, it was the lastest stable Version!
I did not plan to get a Beta Tester when I ordered a €1199.- Wheelbase!
It has nothing to do with buying into a beta test, we've recognized there are some improvements we can make to the FFB and add some features people where asking for since the release. So we did that, but sadly it came with some issues like the jolts, now we want to solve them. I don't know exactly when those issues are solved, I can't foresee the future. Most of the current issues are happening only for some of the user base and random without an easy way to reproduce them which makes them hard to solve and is the reason why it takes us longer to solve them as for other issues in the past.
Well, when the DD1 arrives at my place i will compare the usability of the licended v.335 with the latest beta driver.
When i feel that there is a big difference between those, i think i am gonna send the wheelbase back, as i am not willing to use a beta driver in daily usage.
I read your words Marcel about this is not a beta test, but to be honest when i look at the thing that v.335 is the official driver nearly since the release and none of the beta drivers which were released meanwhile has made it to an official one....
When i see a bird that looks like a duck, sounds like a duck and swims like a duck, i call it a duck!
driver 346 can be considered as a stable non beta driver as well, so its not like there is nothing in between.
What ever how about you get and try the product before we continue.
Hello,
When using DD2 wheel in iracing with recommended settings (90%ffb) when i hit something or do test in driver for ffb it makes really noisy sound like something metallic inside is it normal? thanks in advance for help.
Is the Quick Release ring tightened properly?
Can you record the noise?
My wheel keeps going dead on me mid race. It's happened 4 times now in about 10 hours of racing. The power stays on but it simply disconnects from my PC. No buttons work and of course I crash and lose a ton on IR in iRacing. I'm ready to sell it because I see this is happeneing to a lot of people with no resolve.
I'm using a DD1, Podium Porsche Gt3 wheel, and driver 353. Wheel base firmware:670 Motor: 38, Steering Wheel: 1
The same issue than me.
Please give us a soluiton, It´s an expensive hardware
This happens to me also, when using the Universal XBox Hub. Doesnt do it with my F1 2019 LE rim.
Both are done up correctly (taking up the rubber slack before putting the wheel on) and even using 3D printed wrench to get the clamp tight.
Typically happens in AC, especially on Spa, when a wheel might go over these steps on the side of a ripple strip shown below at Raidillon Eau Rouge, and especially on Turn 8 Les Comb (couldn't find a photo quickly - but there is a large edge if you slightly cut the corner)
Feels like the wheel jolts when it its this.
Hi
I have a DD1 mounted with porsche 991GT3 R and run driver 356
I have the same problem in iRacing. It start with some times it feels like hit something invisible on track. For a millisecond the wheel is gone and then come back.
It starts like this for about a week and then first the podium bottun module freezes. Some minuts later the wheel pulled very strong to the left. After about 10 sec the wheel base come back and I could drive again. But the was smash though, so I quit.
In Fanalab i can only see the DD1 and and the podium hub.
I then reinstall drivers, restart pc, install drives again and all work again for about a month..........
Both are done up correctly ( even taking outp the rubber slack before putting the wheel on)
This have happen 3 times for me this year. It first started with driver 356
Shall i go back to driver 346 and will the podium bottun module work with that?
bo, it wont work with driver 346, you need at least driver 352 for that. Your issue is reported and currently under heavy investigation. You should contact @Marcel Pfister to report him details.