I'm assuming it's Windows 10 update of some description that's caused the issue but the PC is using MS created drivers for both the pedals and the wheel. Clubsport Wheelbase 2.5. Originally on V312 drivers and then rolled back to V310.
I can't convince the PC to accept the Fanatec drivers. They install but when you go to properties it's showing a default joystick calibration screen. So X,Y,Z and the buttons, and that's it. At the top it's saying Joystick Properties. Same for the pedals.
I've downloaded some of the older drivers and firmware from here and I'm going to try with an older release and see if that works. I also have a Windows 7 laptop that I'm going to test on. Just to make sure it's not the wheel.
Otherwise can anyone recommend the best way to completely remove the MS controller drivers? Un-installing the Fanatec software doesn't do it. Neither does removing the HID drivers via device manager. The MS Windows drivers still remain on the system. I think MS Windows is deciding itself that the installed drivers are better than the Fanatec ones and refuses to use them.
The whole thing is very bizzare and I've been battling away for a week now trying to sort this.
Sorry there's not too much information on here at the moment, typing this up on my lunch break and not on my PC at home.
Oddly I had an F1 Thrustmaster wheel from many years ago and I had a similar issue, Windows 7 replaced the Thrustmaster drivers with it's own and stubbornly refused to accept the "official" ones.
I'm assuming it's Windows 10 update of some description that's caused the issue but the PC is using MS created drivers for both the pedals and the wheel. Clubsport Wheelbase 2.5. Originally on V312 drivers and then rolled back to V310.
I can't convince the PC to accept the Fanatec drivers. They install but when you go to properties it's showing a default joystick calibration screen. So X,Y,Z and the buttons, and that's it. At the top it's saying Joystick Properties. Same for the pedals.
I've downloaded some of the older drivers and firmware from here and I'm going to try with an older release and see if that works. I also have a Windows 7 laptop that I'm going to test on. Just to make sure it's not the wheel.
Otherwise can anyone recommend the best way to completely remove the MS controller drivers? Un-installing the Fanatec software doesn't do it. Neither does removing the HID drivers via device manager. The MS Windows drivers still remain on the system. I think MS Windows is deciding itself that the installed drivers are better than the Fanatec ones and refuses to use them.
The whole thing is very bizzare and I've been battling away for a week now trying to sort this.
Sorry there's not too much information on here at the moment, typing this up on my lunch break and not on my PC at home.
Oddly I had an F1 Thrustmaster wheel from many years ago and I had a similar issue, Windows 7 replaced the Thrustmaster drivers with it's own and stubbornly refused to accept the "official" ones.
You could try a few things:
In device manager, there is a section that says "show hidden devices" this can sometimes cause issues where drivers are kept and stored for devices that are not currently connected. You can clear these out manually or you can run a script or even use ccleaner (it has a section to remove disconnected devices) to remove stored/installed drivers for hidden devices.
Depending on the the device you can also use the devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1" command if you find that easier.
I would recommend uninstalling the Fanatec drivers, removing all the "hidden" Fanatec devices (non present) from device manager (and any game controller devices etc that you are no longer using or no longer have).
Also make sure that once all the drivers are removed, restart the PC and POWER ON AND CONNECT ALL FANATEC EQUIPTMENT AND ENABLE PC MODE (red) "BEFORE" installing the drivers.
If that doesn't work, you can then try removing all the drivers again, and this time installing the driver manually by using the device manager, update/install driver section and selecting "browse my computer for driver software" and then pointing it at the extracted driver location or selecting "let me pick from a list of known drivers" and manually install, the Fanatec driver from the extracted location.
Hopefully that may help resolve your issue, or at least assist in tracking down the issue at hand.
I just bought the CSL Eite and GT3 wheel two weeks ago and experiencing the same random wheel communication drop outs. I thought maybe the wheel was loose, but it has zero play in it. I use the optional upgraded metal quick release with the fixing screw.
Disconnect happens at random times but seem to be at mid corner, curb strikes, and after tow to the pits. (only use iracing) I have to power off and back on the base and it becomes functional again. Doesn't really matter though since each race is ruined by sudden loss of control.
Tried all the suggestions to this point. No luck.
One other oddity I have seen is, once while assigning buttons, the key bind was ("Dev1 button14, Dev1 button63, Dev1 button 56....")**
I tried assigning the button once more and it worked as a single Dev1 Button1**. (** for descriptive purposes only)
Have a ticket open with Florian, and was offered an RMA for the wheel and base, but I am hesitant since so many people are reporting the issues are being resolved upon return. I said I would continue to try and narrow down possible causes.
Fellow racer has the same new wheel base but uses his old BMW rim. He has had zero issues. The issue seems to be with the wheel.
Interesting Note:
Today Sept 7th, I come to the site to check for driver updates etc and the McLaren wheel isn't' even showing up in the drop down menus for products, updates, or configuration tool. Is there something to this? Has the product been pulled?
Hey Scott,
Curious to know if you are using the brake performance kit? Sounds odd but I am also trying to narrow down the issue after my replacement is having the same problems.
I have a GT3 wheel with the V3 pedals and the PS4 CSL base. My right shift paddle stopped working completely and I have only had the wheel for 3 days now. I don't have the brake performance kit.
Just when I thought I was narrowing in on the problem it happened again. P button stopped responding but I can make it work by pressing P and N simultaneously.
No, the only peripheral I use in is the h pattern shifter.
Scott
Scott, check my post scrolling up a little. H pattern shifter has to be unplugged when u install GT3 rim on the base. After that u can plug shifter back on, something to do with drivers.
I will give that a shot, but I never really had any issues with shifting. My issue was the wheel losing all communication with the base. I did try the 312 beta driver posted on the original post, and have not had the drop out since. Here is the process I followed as it didn't fix it first go around.
deleted 311 driver
restarted comp
ran the 312 software
turned on wheel base (no wheel attached)
flashed the base
restarted computer
connected the wheel
flashed the wheel
restarted computer
Drove for a few hours without the fixing screw and no issues. Installed fixing screw and drove another few hours. Knock on wood, the 312 beta seems to have resolved my issue.
Of course this was all after I re-requested an RMA be created. (Bang head against wall) I am really hoping this was just a driver/FW issue as I don't want to go through the inconvenience of sending sending everything back.
I did receive an email stating the GT3 wheel is now only available as a bundle with the CSQR which is why I couldn't find the product page. A little upset that I paid for the wheel and the $99 optional CSQR two weeks ago and now its offered as a bundle for less. Oh well. As long as things stay working properly I am happy. The wheel is really fantastic when everything is working.
One last thing for those expereince the same issue I have been having is to adjust the FFB within iRacing to a level that never places the meter into the point of clipping or clipping warning. (keep the meter in the green) I previously was setting it to where it would indicate yellow at maximum inputs like high speed corners and curb strikes. I am wondering if on occasion the setting was too high and the clipping was causing something in the software to quit and cause the loss of communication.
I will follow up mid week as I have league races Wednesday. Fingers crossed that the issue has been rectified.
WTF ! The McLaren rim now comes with the QR for cheaper than i paid 3 weeks ago ! I dont even have a wheel that is working as intended and yet i have to pay more !
What driver fixes the N and P button not working ?
Well I was told today there is a 314 driver out and I've seen the download for it but it's strange that it's not on this site, also Fanatec need to sort this problem out with the Mclaren rim, it's becoming a joke really, leave the DD bases alone and fix what was sold previously.
20minutes into the Mclaren GT3 wheel and Y button stops working
v312 firmware
Also the standalone drivers are not even listed on the website for this wheel
ALSO 2 days after buying the wheel and quick release for extra 100€, the wheel came off the site and reappeared again already bundled with the QR, 50€ cheaper
@ Stephen and Risto Would you please delay the flaming until you at least contacted our sales team or the support team to resolve your issues and give them a chance to do so? Thank you very much. I am sure we'll find efficient solutions for your complaints.
Looks like the issue seems to be, that if you press two buttons at the same time, then the first button pressed will not work at all anymore until you restart the wheel.
After 6 hours of testing and no issues over the last three days, again lost all wheel communication when I took the grid for a league race. Third league race in a row, DNF due to wheel communication loss. Two hour practice, 15 min Q and not a blip. Go to line up on the grid, and nothing.
iracing, v312 driver 475 FW set for the base. FW 25 for the rim.
I have observed communication loss primarily:
1) high speed turns or curb strikes
2) After exiting the car,taking a tow, or taking the grid
why are you so shure that this is a software issue? Did you try to use the very oldest driver/fw version possible also to make a comparison? Not sure which behaviour that includes from the "wheels perspective": 2) After exiting the car,taking a tow, or taking the grid
Can you please explain that in a little more detail? Hope you are in touch (chat) with our support team. This is NO common issue many customers are suffering from which would be the case if it is a overall software issue.
THX!
@ Risto does something like that really happen in a reproducible way? "if you press two buttons at the same time, then the first button pressed will not work at all anymore until you restart the wheel."
I have been in touch with support (Florian). My comment to it being a software issue was made based upon support's responses. I have submitted videos, pictures, and descriptions of each event. It is my understanding that one reasons they interpret the issue to be software/firmware related are:
1) the wheel base never loses power.
2) in the control panel the Mclaren wheel image still appears along with the CSQR image
3) failures have ranged from total failure of all wheel, button, and shift inputs, to partial failure of random buttons, clutch paddles, or shift paddles.
I have followed, to the best of my knowledge, the correct steps to remove and reinstall drivers and FW. I have now experienced similar issue with both the 311 driver which was posted in the downloads section of the product at the time of purchase (about 3 weeks ago) and the beta version 312 you shared in the OP. I have had better results with the 312 version as I have only experienced one disconnection after several hours without issue. The 311 set failed at intervals of 15-30 minutes of use. I have inspected the pins for damage, and sent photos to support for their opinion as well. Again, their response was it is likely a software issue and not a hardware issue. I will add that none of the disconnects signaled a USB connection interruption.
Another note on last nights failure that I forgot to mention was, leaving the pit box once during the qualifying, the pit limiter button did not work. I returned to the pits following my outlap and it work on entry.
The wheel is attached to the base with the CSQR and fixing screw. There is zero wiggle/play in the fit.
Questions:
1) Where can I find the drivers now? As of last night Sept 12 10:30 pm Central time US, they were no longer on the web page.
2) Do you have any trouble shooting ideas you would like me to try?
3) I have read elsewhere of a v314 driver, yet I find nothing mentioned of it on the Fanatec site. Is there any information you can share on that?
4) Would you recommend returning the base and wheel to support? (last resort as it is a massive inconvienience)
Lastly, support said they would create an RMA if the issue continued, but since they thought it was software related we decided I would try to resolve it with the different drivers. I really want to keep sending the base and wheel back as a last resort and rule out as much as possible first. It is painful to send $500 worth of brand new product back and further impact my racing league participation during the shipping/evaluation/shipping again.
From reading the iracing forums, reddit, and the community posts, this do not believe I am alone in my experience. I remain patient for the time being with the willingness to try an resolve the issue. However, I am beginning to worry I will quickly pass the 30 day return window and be stuck with an unreliable new product.
Please understand I am here to help find a solution, not to flame. If my frustrations come out in my words, I apologize.
thank you very much for your message. Sadly it is a misconception that I can give you better support here in the public forum than Florian or any other support expert can do it within our support system. There is no better place to resolve an issue. I will send Florian this summary of the issue and he will use it to take the best approach of solving the issue you're suffering from. I can assure you one thing: We never left alone any customer with an issue and we'll not settle until we have a solution for you.
@ Risto does something like that really happen in a reproducible way? "if you press two buttons at the same time, then the first button pressed will not work at all anymore until you restart the wheel.
Yes absolutely reproducible. Is the case with all the buttons. If I purposely avoid pressing any button at the same time then im good. But more than often, especially during gearshifts, this is hard to manage, especially during a high level league race. Also the button only continues to function without a restart if you push it combined with the button you pressed it with in the first place to "break" it.
Very dissapointing. The product should come with a warning before purchase that you are paying to become a beta tester.
Yes absolutely reproducible. Is the case with all the buttons. If I purposely avoid pressing any button at the same time then im good. But more than often, especially during gearshifts, this is hard to manage, especially during a high level league race. Also the button only continues to function without a restart if you push it combined with the button you pressed it with in the first place to "break" it.
Did you inform the support team of the issue? I've never heard of this problem. Please let them know if you can reproduce it only on one wheel, on all, only with one FW version or which FW versions are affected etc.
This is no beta test and you are no beta tester. Those products are in extended alpha and beta tests before being released. The products are on the market for more than 6 months and this issue has not been reported or verified so far. Hard to resolve/avoid issues which nobody has ever heard before to be honest ;-)
Below is the last email from Florian. Would you recommend following this process and then installing the v310?
ello Scott,
thank you for your reply and the videos!
It looks like an software issue. Please see attached manual. It shows how to reset the game controller to default.
After performing these steps, please update the firmware of the wheel base without the McLaren wheel attached. Then install the McLaren wheel again and update the Firmware of the wheel.
Please unplug other game controllers to exclude them as a possible root cause. Should the issue still persist please get back to us and we will re-open the RMA for you. Thank you very much in advance!
Definitely perform the steps recommended by the Support Team first! ;-) Then try old driver and old firmwares to make sure if it is a software issue which could be isolated on newer versions. Before you request an RMA I would ALWAYS try the wheel setup on another PC and console to make sure nothing apart from the Fanatec hardware is involved in causing those issues. If something else which is not sent in is related to the issue the support team has no chance to see and reproduce the issue in their tech center.
I know how that is done ;-) Please do not share 1:1 (private) communication in public between you and the supporter. But it does not hurt at all to leave this manual here how to reset the controller. We do not yet know why or which games/apps mess with the core settings of FFB wheels. That is really not the way software developers should apply any changes of their software.
I would suggest all responses from support include a note or signature line in the email that the messages are not to be shared.
THX...good point! But you know how the web and it citizens behave these days. If you add something like this, it might motivate some especially to do it.
This is no beta test and you are no beta tester. Those products are in extended alpha and beta tests before being released. The products are on the market for more than 6 months and this issue has not been reported or verified so far.
Then why are the firmware versions labled as "beta"?
On a serious note, where can we learn about the v314 firmware, when is it coming out (from fanatec), what does it contain and what are the future bugfixes?
My CSL elite + GT3 rim are extremely dull despite any setting change in rF2 compared to my logitech, same issue for several friends with the product. Appearantly also a firmware problem and appearantly every issue and worry is to be fixed in future firmware. Would be good to know if there is something on the horizon or if its worth to refund/sell the hardware now.
My CSL elite + GT3 rim are extremely dull despite any setting change in rF2 compared to my logitech, same issue for several friends with the product. Appearantly also a firmware problem and appearantly every issue and worry is to be fixed in future firmware. Would be good to know if there is something on the horizon or if its worth to refund/sell the hardware now.
Never heard of that. How should we resolve issues which are not reported? At the same time...we do theoretic tests and the CSL E shows always more detailed and stronger effects than the Logitech. Do such tests on your own and you will see that.
The wheel does not know which game is running and there is no different handling for different games. So the support of the wheel by the game is different (not firmware) or tuning menu settings are wrong somehow. It is impossible that a firmware issue causes the wheel feeling dull in only one simulation. And the CSL E WB is defintely not feeling dull in Assetto Corsa, pCars, iRacing, Raceroom etc.
But to be honest...nobody ever reported that the wheel feels dull in rF2 either.
Dont worry, I have reported every complaint in a ticket that I have made here, just discussing it, what forums are made for. Indeed a shame that all these talks are also to me only rumors from friends, but very frequent rumors.
Do you know if there are any differences in effect to the F.FEEDB. and FORCE settings on the wheel? Any combination of the settings to reach the same overall FFB strenght makes the car handle the same, feeling as if its really the same option and there is some hidden dampening going on. I am unable to crank up the FFB effects without also increasing the centring force.
Have tested all combinations of settings on the wheel, in the game and in the games controller.json
Also it springs to my mind that I have googled people complaining about excess rattling in rF2. This problem has since been fixed but maybe the effect of this fix has been overdampening of the effects. With the logitech wheel if you disable FFB smoothening, every bump and curb would be heavy even on low FFB multipliers, but on this wheel and base I cannot replicate this.
Comments
Can someone help me with a Windows 10 issue?
I'm assuming it's Windows 10 update of some description that's caused the issue but the PC is using MS created drivers for both the pedals and the wheel. Clubsport Wheelbase 2.5. Originally on V312 drivers and then rolled back to V310.
I can't convince the PC to accept the Fanatec drivers. They install but when you go to properties it's showing a default joystick calibration screen. So X,Y,Z and the buttons, and that's it. At the top it's saying Joystick Properties. Same for the pedals.
I've downloaded some of the older drivers and firmware from here and I'm going to try with an older release and see if that works. I also have a Windows 7 laptop that I'm going to test on. Just to make sure it's not the wheel.
Otherwise can anyone recommend the best way to completely remove the MS controller drivers? Un-installing the Fanatec software doesn't do it. Neither does removing the HID drivers via device manager. The MS Windows drivers still remain on the system. I think MS Windows is deciding itself that the installed drivers are better than the Fanatec ones and refuses to use them.
The whole thing is very bizzare and I've been battling away for a week now trying to sort this.
Sorry there's not too much information on here at the moment, typing this up on my lunch break and not on my PC at home.
Oddly I had an F1 Thrustmaster wheel from many years ago and I had a similar issue, Windows 7 replaced the Thrustmaster drivers with it's own and stubbornly refused to accept the "official" ones.
You could try a few things:
In device manager, there is a section that says "show hidden devices" this can sometimes cause issues where drivers are kept and stored for devices that are not currently connected. You can clear these out manually or you can run a script or even use ccleaner (it has a section to remove disconnected devices) to remove stored/installed drivers for hidden devices.
Depending on the the device you can also use the devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1" command if you find that easier.
I would recommend uninstalling the Fanatec drivers, removing all the "hidden" Fanatec devices (non present) from device manager (and any game controller devices etc that you are no longer using or no longer have).
Also make sure that once all the drivers are removed, restart the PC and POWER ON AND CONNECT ALL FANATEC EQUIPTMENT AND ENABLE PC MODE (red) "BEFORE" installing the drivers.
If that doesn't work, you can then try removing all the drivers again, and this time installing the driver manually by using the device manager, update/install driver section and selecting "browse my computer for driver software" and then pointing it at the extracted driver location or selecting "let me pick from a list of known drivers" and manually install, the Fanatec driver from the extracted location. Hopefully that may help resolve your issue, or at least assist in tracking down the issue at hand.
Would you please delay the flaming until you at least contacted our sales team or the support team to resolve your issues and give them a chance to do so? Thank you very much. I am sure we'll find efficient solutions for your complaints.
THX!
does something like that really happen in a reproducible way?
"if you press two buttons at the same time, then the first button pressed will not work at all anymore until you restart the wheel."
https://www.fanatec.com/forum/uploads/FileUpload/24/d3f9b4ae0f2b5d8a5533e353e5550c.zip
Armin
does something like that really happen in a reproducible way?
"if you press two buttons at the same time, then the first button pressed will not work at all anymore until you restart the wheel.
Regards,
Scott
Never heard of that. How should we resolve issues which are not reported? At the same time...we do theoretic tests and the CSL E shows always more detailed and stronger effects than the Logitech. Do such tests on your own and you will see that.
But to be honest...nobody ever reported that the wheel feels dull in rF2 either.