Fanatec Beta Driver V312 for CSL and CSW Bases (all wheels/rim) - experimental

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Comments

  • Armin HabermannArmin Habermann Member, Administrator
    Hi Matteo,

    we're talking English in this forum to bring us all together ;-) If you found an issue with this driver version...did you cross check with previous driver revisions?
  • Hi first I had the driver 289 no problem, but with the 312 I encounter this problem, when I open the control panel and go on the csp v3 I open the screen of the base csw2 and I can not calibrate the pedalboard
  • Armin HabermannArmin Habermann Member, Administrator
    Please go back to your previous driver and then again back to 312 to check if it is consistently related to V312. Would be strange if only you are suffering from one driver issue.
  • matteo basilematteo basile Member
    edited July 2018
    hi
  • if you had base, please connected pedal to base and not use usb. 
  • Universal hub (not xbox) button box 5 still does not work.  Gone back to v293
  • Armin HabermannArmin Habermann Member, Administrator
    @ John
    Yea, sorry. We are planning this fix for the next major release of driver and firmware.
  • @ John
    Yea, sorry. We are planning this fix for the next major release of driver and firmware.
    Thanks
  • When will that major release of fixes for the Universal Hub be out???
  • Armin HabermannArmin Habermann Member, Administrator
    Hi Dayton,

    it is not possible to mention a date since it can be released when all issues are resolved. I can assure to you that we will release it asap. If you're driving on PC then you could also use an older FW. There should not be a noticeable difference if you don't optain the McLaren Wheel. 
  • hello, I installed these drivers 312 with firmware 472, but I have problems of random disconnection of the steering wheel. any suggestions ? windows 10 64bit ver 803 last updates - CSW V1 .
  • Armin HabermannArmin Habermann Member, Administrator
    Hi Carlo,

    switch back to the old driver and keep the new firmware. Check if the problem persists.
    Then switch back to the old firmware and check with the new driver (without updating firmware) and check if the problem persists.
    If the issue is not resolved in one of those cases....test with old driver AND old firmware. If the problem still persists it sound like a hardware issue.

    Armin
  • Thanks for the reply. Im try to do. Actually port intup is usb 3.0. Any difference to switch to 2.0?
  • Thanks for the reply. Im try to do. Actually port intup is usb 3.0. Any difference to switch to 2.0?
    USB3.0 has a history of not working well with game controllers. If you have a USB2.0 port available, please try it.
  • Yes thanks
  • Why is the firmware section all over the place ?
    Last i new was that beta was like a test firmware but all actual firmware that are not beta are really old and only beta seem to be getting updates !
    What firmware should i be installing for my new Mclaren wheel i have ordered on Sunday ?
  • I use a CSWv2 BTW ;)
  • Go to the download page of the McLaren rim to find the latest available driver with firmware for your wheel. Its actually driver v311 with CSW v2 firmware 474 and McLaren firmware 25.
  • I am not certain the issue I've been experiencing is the one attempting to be fixed with this beta driver, but what I've been experiencing has not been nullified with the driver update. The problem both I and a good friend (as well as others, documented in the official PC2 forum) both experience is a complete loss of driving control, not JUST FFB. For me this has ONLY ever happened playing Project Cars 2. I also play iRacing, RFactor 2 and Dirt Rally but have never had this happen in any of those games. I have other clips of the same type of occurrence in the past on non-experimental drivers. This happened last night. This was the only occurrence in the 90 minute race.


  • whats improve from v.310 drivers (here basewheel 2.5) ?
  • Would like to see improvements in ffb with CSW v2 in these drivers. For that reason every time when I've changed drivers/fw to newest one(310, 311 or 312), I've went back to 292. Especially on Xbox One, there significant difference in feel. Of course also that most buttons in un.hubs doesn't work with 310/311/312 is very annoying too. Good thing is that I haven't bought McLaren wheel yet, and don't before those drivers/fw's are fixed properly.

    Just all of that makes me wonder if those drivers are even tested with CSW v2.
  • Have you guys looked into the issue with the GT3 wheel buttons not working randomly? I just RMA'ed mine and got a replacement and it's doing the same thing! There is other people with this same issue too. Someone else I know also RMA'ed and their replacement was doing the same thing as well.This is happening on PC for me, PC for another person and Xbox for the other guy.

    This streamer had the same issue when going into the pits and his pit button wasn't working: https://clips.twitch.tv/InspiringEagerBobaCoolStoryBob

    I have tried 310, 311, 312 and they all give me the same issue. You guys need to have some sort of logger to find out why this is happening.
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    Hey Chad can you tell me if you are using the Brake Performance Kit?
  • Yes I am. What does that have to do with the GT3 wheel though?
  • Thomas HarderThomas Harder Member
    edited August 2018
    I have been experiencing an issue in Project CARS 2, since approximiately December. Joshua Nessel posted a video of a very similar issue.

    I will have random "cut outs" of the FFB/USB signal to the wheel in the middle of the race. I have already posted about this extensively on the pCARS forum. I had really hoped this driver/firmware would fix it, and until tonight it looked promising. Sadly, the issue occured again tonight. FIrst time in abut 3 weeks, but it happened 3 times durign a 45 minute race.

    As I turn into a corner, the wheel will suddenly go dead in my hands. All indicators/displays on the wheel rim go dark. No inputs form the wheel are registered by the PC. The wheel base still shows power, and Windows does NOT detect a USB disconnect. At the same time, I lose all input from the pedals as well. Initially, I had the pedals connected direct to the base, but about a month ago, the pedals went direct to USB.

    I have tried with the devices direct to on board USB2.0 ports. I have tried a powered USB hub. Nothing I have done, either hardware or software on my end has resolved it. The loss of signal last only a few seconds, and then everything returns to normal. A few laps later, it will do it again. Sometimes once it starts, it will do it every lap, other times it only happens every few laps.

    Here are my system specs:
    CPU - AMD FX-8370 w/Wraith Cooler MoBo - GB-78LMT-USB3 (Rev 6.0) RAM - 24GB 1600 DDR3, Video - Zotac GTX1060 AMP! 6GB DDR5, OS - Win10 Pro 64bit, SSD - Corsair 240GB Force LE, Controller - Fanatec CSW v2.5, CSL Elite LC Pedals, DIY Button Box, G27 Shifter (USB) Monitor - Samsung UN28H4000AF 28" LED x3

    Here is the link to the forum thread I started on PC2 forum.

    Again, I was very hopeful that this issue would be addressed by this driver, but sadly it seems it isn't fixed yet.

    Are there any logs I can provide to help diagnose it?

    EDIT: Before anyone offers any "suggestions", please be aware that I have already tried/checked every one of the "common" fixes multiple times. I have tried other USB ports. I have tried clean reinstall of everything, including Windows OS. I have upgraded my PSU. I have bought an external, powered USB hub. I have double, triple and quadruple checked the USB power saving settings/Windows OS power saving settings. I have checked the rim's pins. The issue happens with multiple rims. As I said, I have had this issue for a while, so I have literally done ALL of the common suggestions, some even more than once. While initially it only seemed to happen in pC2, recently it has also happend in iRacing (during the 24H of Spa).

    At this point, I think I need to have someone from Fanatec tell me what logs to send in for you to investigate. Since the issue affects both wheel and pedals at the same time, it pretty clearly (IMO) points to a software issue.


  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    edited August 2018
    Yes I am. What does that have to do with the GT3 wheel though?

    I changed my elastomers a bit over a week ago to a softer feel and for about a week the wheel was working fine. I did have one instance where the P was not responding but I would be curious to see if the pedals are affecting the McLaren wheel. I have a few other wheels and there are absolutely no issues on those rims so it is definitely a communication issue with the McLaren wheel p.s normally every game session the wheel becomes unresponsive so after the change above I was surprised that it wasn’t happening.
  • Sorry but why would changing those out have anything to do with the wheel not working? 
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    For the issue to happen so randomly, something is causing a conflict. I’m trying everything to pinpoint the problem so I don’t have to do another RMA. The only thing I changed in my setup recently is what I mentioned above which has affected the frequency of the issue happening every session to much less often.
  • Argo TederArgo Teder Member
    edited September 2018
    Hello.
    I have V2 base, V3 pedals, H-shifter and a handbrake. Bought GT3 wheel and out of the box shifting down skipped shifts, or didnt work atall.
    Tryd all kinds of drivers and firmwares. After hours of trying everything, even opening up the wheel itself to check if its hardware related, i accidentally figured it out. When i unplugged H-shifter and after that but the wheel back on the base the issue was gone. I could even plug H-shifter back in. So, the H-shifter has to be unplugged when you attach the GT3 wheel on the base. SOmething to do with software and maybe you guys could check it out. Using driver v311, base firmware 473, rim firmware 25
  • Hello.
    I have V2 base, V3 pedals, H-shifter and a handbrake. Bought GT3 wheel and out of the box shifting down skipped shifts, or didnt work atall.
    Tryd all kinds of drivers and firmwares. After hours of trying everything, even opening up the wheel itself to check if its hardware related, i accidentally figured it out. When i unplugged H-shifter and after that but the wheel back on the base the issue was gone. I could even plug H-shifter back in. So, the H-shifter has to be unplugged when you attach the GT3 wheel on the base. SOmething to do with software and maybe you guys could check it out. Using driver v311, base firmware 473, rim firmware 25
    Thanks for reporting, we'll look into this.
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