Hi there I updated to 450 finally able to flash my dd1 podium.
but once I try to update it i get this msg if someone can please help. I just purchased it off a friend it was working until I stupidly updated it from 447!
Did you pressed rhe power button for 10 seconds to boot into bootloader mode? Because you updated in the wrong order which should not be possible when you update properly via the green update button in the Firmware Manager.
Maybe you should explain your issue in more detail as explained in the first post to get an answer because your issue report doesn't tell much.
Did you calibrated the Shifter properly? If so, how did you calibrated it, in the Driver or directly from the wheel?
What you describe cant be reproduced here so it's more likely that you did something wrong or your Rig suffers from EMI issues where ferrite cores on the RJ12 cable could help.
They work fine in the driver or the Fanatec control panel. So only having issues in ACC and I have reassigned the buttons in the options menu. I haven't tested this on other games.
I also used the Porsche profile which configured the FFB settings and the wheel. Screenshot of these settings below. Would any of these selected settings cause issues with the turn dials?
Hey Maurice thanks for the reply….. I did the first update on 447 and now the fan runs at 100 percent won’t be recognized on the pc… I upgraded to 450 driver held the button for 10 sec flashed it and is now recognizes it.
the wheel base moves 1 qrt and asks me to sync wheel base which I do and it’s okay.
when I try to update firmare it freezes and gives me that msg .
Issue is that your Motor is on a old V42 but the Base is on a new 3.0.1.4 and they both can not communicate with each other because you flashed the base first instead of the motor.
In order to get the base communicate again with the Motor You need to uninstall driver 450, install Driver 439, hold the power button for 10 seconds to boot into bootloader mode to downgrade your base firmware to one which can communicate with the old motor firmware.
Afterwards uninstall driver 439, install Driver 450, open the firmware Manager and click the green update button in the Firmware Manager so it flashes all firmwares in the correct order. Do NOT update anything manually!
Ok amazing so far this happened !! Now go to the 450 and just update it as mentions now in the second picture should I leave the wheel like this before updated with the 450 or centre it cal it and then update?
Finish the firmware flash process by calibrating the center.
Then uninstall 439, install 450, restart the PC, open the Firmware Manager through the Control Panel and click the green update button. Then the Updater will update everything in the correct order (so first the Motor and only afterwards the base).
As I already said in the FanaLab thread.. I dont understand that question.
I dont know what FFS 45 PAC means and what this has to do with Linear and that something feels different?! Also there never was a driver 639....
Could it be that you previously used FFS in Peak mode with FFB set to 45 and now, for whatever reason, you want to use FFS Linear and your question is which FFB setting is needed to feel identical to FFB 45 in FFS Peak mode? Then the answer would be 60.
As I explained. FFS had no effect in Low Torque Mode (so when not using the Torque Key) even though in earlier driver and FanaLab versions you could change the toggle. PEAK and LINEAR were exactly the same. Therefore the toggle was disabled with always set to LINEAR when you are in Low Torque Mode. It will feel exactly the same as when you previously used FFS PEAK 45 in Low Torque Mode.
If you now want to use the Torque Key with FFS PEAK in High Torque Mode you would need to set FFB to 18 (which equals 3.6Nm which is the setting you used before with FFS PEAK 45 in Low Torque Mode).
Everything seemed to work fine when I tested so I then updated the firmware automatically.
All firmware updated without issues including the Universal Hub v2.
I played DR2 for a couple of hours without issues yesterday, then applied the latest Windows 11 CU.
All still worked fine until I jumped into RBR. I was about halfway through a track when all of a sudden I received a prompt to flash the universal hub. It actually broke through the game session and prompted and I accidentally hit enter.
It flashed successfully but then would just reprompt and try to flash again.
During this cycle, the GT DD Pro would flash multiple colors and Fanatec driver would say nothing connected.
I restarted the GT DD Pro, used a different usb port, reseated the usb, removed the wheel and added it back (all pins looked good), and the same thing continued to happen.
I then thought maybe it’s just the Universal Hub so i connected my Mclaren v2. Same thing happened, wheel firmware update loop.
I then entered wheel recovery mode, disconnected my wheel, hit ok and then hit reconnected it. It finished but then after closing the next window the loop happened again. I think I tried that process 2 more times until I tried something that worked.
I went through the wheel recovery process again but when it completed I just shutdown the GT DD Pro. When I turned it back on it was happy again. I tried the other wheel and it didn’t flash loop either.
I haven’t had a chance to test everything in a game since then but at least it looked good from Fanatec control. Hoping to test later today.
What was the culprit? No idea but it sure scared me…
Just wanted to post here in case someone ends up in a similar situation.
Comments
going back to driver 447 fixed this
Hi there I updated to 450 finally able to flash my dd1 podium.
but once I try to update it i get this msg if someone can please help. I just purchased it off a friend it was working until I stupidly updated it from 447!
bump
How did you updated the Base Firmware?
Did you pressed rhe power button for 10 seconds to boot into bootloader mode? Because you updated in the wrong order which should not be possible when you update properly via the green update button in the Firmware Manager.
Maybe you should explain your issue in more detail as explained in the first post to get an answer because your issue report doesn't tell much.
Did you calibrated the Shifter properly? If so, how did you calibrated it, in the Driver or directly from the wheel?
What you describe cant be reproduced here so it's more likely that you did something wrong or your Rig suffers from EMI issues where ferrite cores on the RJ12 cable could help.
They work fine in the driver or the Fanatec control panel. So only having issues in ACC and I have reassigned the buttons in the options menu. I haven't tested this on other games.
I also used the Porsche profile which configured the FFB settings and the wheel. Screenshot of these settings below. Would any of these selected settings cause issues with the turn dials?
When they work properly in the driver then it's no hardware or Software issue but you just have them set-up wrong in the game.
Buttons in game need to be set-up as extended Inputs with 0.5s delay, otherwise wont work. That's the issue which most are doing wrong.
Hey Maurice thanks for the reply….. I did the first update on 447 and now the fan runs at 100 percent won’t be recognized on the pc… I upgraded to 450 driver held the button for 10 sec flashed it and is now recognizes it.
the wheel base moves 1 qrt and asks me to sync wheel base which I do and it’s okay.
when I try to update firmare it freezes and gives me that msg .
don’t know what more to do damit lol
Issue is that your Motor is on a old V42 but the Base is on a new 3.0.1.4 and they both can not communicate with each other because you flashed the base first instead of the motor.
In order to get the base communicate again with the Motor You need to uninstall driver 450, install Driver 439, hold the power button for 10 seconds to boot into bootloader mode to downgrade your base firmware to one which can communicate with the old motor firmware.
Afterwards uninstall driver 439, install Driver 450, open the firmware Manager and click the green update button in the Firmware Manager so it flashes all firmwares in the correct order. Do NOT update anything manually!
Thanks brother going to try this right now!
I haven’t updated anything manually so let’s hope this works !
Hey Maurice …. Ok I downloaded the 439 held it for 10 secs do I flash the firmware or just leave it like this?
Yes as I said you need to click the button to flash the firmware, otherwise nothing will happen...
Ok amazing so far this happened !! Now go to the 450 and just update it as mentions now in the second picture should I leave the wheel like this before updated with the 450 or centre it cal it and then update?
Maurice so many thanks so far hope this works lol
Finish the firmware flash process by calibrating the center.
Then uninstall 439, install 450, restart the PC, open the Firmware Manager through the Control Panel and click the green update button. Then the Updater will update everything in the correct order (so first the Motor and only afterwards the base).
I think it’s working ! Ur a Fanatec god machine lol let’s hope now !!! So I will click update and it will do it in the correct order
Should it be saved or not saved ?
Depends if you want the settings to be saved and reloaded or not. So only you can answer that question ;)
I press calibrate and nothing is happening at this point?
i removed the wheel selected next and nothing
Should I downgrade? Nothing is happening at all
When will the Driver "official" released?
Good question which currently nobody can answer.
There are technical issues to upload it to the website and there is no ETA when these issues with the website are resolved.
In the meantime: as there wont be any changes anymore... see it as unoffcially official already ;)
so far i used drivers for my DD1 639
now i have done 450 upgrades
in the 639 controller - I used the FFS 45 PAC main force
what force should I use in 450 Linear - to make it identical to before
As I already said in the FanaLab thread.. I dont understand that question.
I dont know what FFS 45 PAC means and what this has to do with Linear and that something feels different?! Also there never was a driver 639....
Could it be that you previously used FFS in Peak mode with FFB set to 45 and now, for whatever reason, you want to use FFS Linear and your question is which FFB setting is needed to feel identical to FFB 45 in FFS Peak mode? Then the answer would be 60.
Hello
Maybe it's the translator I'm using.
yes - before when i used drivers 439 my FFB strength was set to 45% without key (Peak)
now that i have updated the driver to version 450
not using a key (LINEAR)
after the update, the strength of the FFB LINEAR without the key is much less
what value should i set to make it the same.
439 controller (PEAK) 45% = 450 controller (LINEAR) ?
maybe use a key?
Ah.
You dont use the Torque Key. Okay.
Then the answer is 45 because previously FFS was not functioning in driver 439 without the Torque Key so PEAK was the same as LINEAR.
Therefore the FFS toggle was disabled in every driver since 442 because it didnt had any effect anyway without using the Torque Key.
So FFS LINEAR 45 without Torque Key now should feel exactly the same as FFS PEAK 45 without Torque Key before.
in 439 I didn't use a key
but fanalab version 1.63 allowed to change PEAK-LINEAR
I used PEAK FFS 45%
now in the 450 driver I also do not use the key
the only option is LINEAR FFS force is completely different
if I use the key and change to PEAK - what forces do I have to set to make it as before
As I explained. FFS had no effect in Low Torque Mode (so when not using the Torque Key) even though in earlier driver and FanaLab versions you could change the toggle. PEAK and LINEAR were exactly the same. Therefore the toggle was disabled with always set to LINEAR when you are in Low Torque Mode. It will feel exactly the same as when you previously used FFS PEAK 45 in Low Torque Mode.
If you now want to use the Torque Key with FFS PEAK in High Torque Mode you would need to set FFB to 18 (which equals 3.6Nm which is the setting you used before with FFS PEAK 45 in Low Torque Mode).
ok i will test it - thank you very much for the quick reply
I updated my driver from 448 beta to 450 rc.
Everything seemed to work fine when I tested so I then updated the firmware automatically.
All firmware updated without issues including the Universal Hub v2.
I played DR2 for a couple of hours without issues yesterday, then applied the latest Windows 11 CU.
All still worked fine until I jumped into RBR. I was about halfway through a track when all of a sudden I received a prompt to flash the universal hub. It actually broke through the game session and prompted and I accidentally hit enter.
It flashed successfully but then would just reprompt and try to flash again.
During this cycle, the GT DD Pro would flash multiple colors and Fanatec driver would say nothing connected.
I restarted the GT DD Pro, used a different usb port, reseated the usb, removed the wheel and added it back (all pins looked good), and the same thing continued to happen.
I then thought maybe it’s just the Universal Hub so i connected my Mclaren v2. Same thing happened, wheel firmware update loop.
I then entered wheel recovery mode, disconnected my wheel, hit ok and then hit reconnected it. It finished but then after closing the next window the loop happened again. I think I tried that process 2 more times until I tried something that worked.
I went through the wheel recovery process again but when it completed I just shutdown the GT DD Pro. When I turned it back on it was happy again. I tried the other wheel and it didn’t flash loop either.
I haven’t had a chance to test everything in a game since then but at least it looked good from Fanatec control. Hoping to test later today.
What was the culprit? No idea but it sure scared me…
Just wanted to post here in case someone ends up in a similar situation.