I had this issue and my power supply was replaced under warranty. It is the fan you are hearing. My new power supply started doing this again but is not often often yet to be of concern. Submit a ticket to Fanatec
Shifter Port #2 used to work fine also with H-Pattern on my GT-DD 8nm until the latest FW-Update.
I was forced to use this port as port #1 does not work reliable. This had connection issues out-of-the-box but I did not bother opening a support ticket as #2 worked fine all the time until now.
Because it was never intended to work in Port2, that only worked by accident and in recent Firmware there was a new Filter implemented to mitigate mis-shifts. But this Filter can only work in Port1 - the Port which is designed to work in H-Pattern Mode.
So if it can work in the second port, all be it, not to the same level as port 1...why on earth would you take functionality away.
This guy is a clear example of why not to remove functionality, even if it isn't originally designed in that way.
Why would you not have a backup in the case of failure.
It's like having a spare tire in your car.
Sure, it might be a space saver... But it will get you home if the situation arises.
Do the right thing. Just enable port 2 to be used with limited functionality because if anything it just is a good look for the brand and the product.
Would you rather people be unhappy and complaining as per this example, or would you rather have people praise the product to their friends saying hey this fanatec is good stuff, in case of failure they were so smart to include a redundancy. Good job fanatec.
Nothing worse then brands taking away functionality. Many brands have done this, and the general consensus of how people feel about them changes very quickly. Once your sliding down that hill, it's almost impossible to get the people back on your side. And there's been a lot of stuff sending fanatec that way for things they've done.. Or not done more so.
Just put it back in. It doesn't take anything away.
To put it back in the Filter would need to be removed - and people would get mis-shifts again in Port1 (and Port2). So unfortunately thats not a real option.
in iRacing, the Clutch-Bitpoint has been failing at the start of the race, and sometimes mid race. I'll pull back both levers for full clutch, release the right for bite point, and then the left to go into full throttle.
After the start, pulling a single lever back should allow full clutch, but it only brings it to 50%, which is what I have the bite point set to. For the rest of the race, until I reset the wheel base, the clutch will not go to 100% using a single lever.
Driver: PC 450
Wheelbase DD1 3.0.1.4
Motor 3.0.0.2
Wheel: Clubsport Formula V2 with Advanced Paddle Kit, Firmware 46
Fanalab 1.69.7
Issues only on current driver 450.
Was last running 448 and earlier with zero issues
I downgraded back to 448, ran races a full day without issues, and then upgrade to 450 again. Repeated issues with bitepoint failing at the start of a race on driver 450.
secondary glitching of the small screen on the wheel. It usually displays the gear I'm in, or the current speed. But stading still in game the wheel flickered between 0 and 6 on the display, and would constantly flicker and display the wrong gear while in race. I assumed it was a bad/loose connection between the wheel and base, but reattaching the wheel did no fix the issues, downgrading the driver did fix the display flickering and bad values.
I tried to temp fix this issue in driver 450 by saving a second profile to #2, but with no bite point. However, switching to profile 2 mid race selected a default profile with "Auto" steering angle, not the 360 degrees I had previously saved.
I've removed the Torque Key, probably until there is a fix. There's too much risk to my hands or to ruining an endurance race for my team because I had to take my hands off the wheel at speed.
In all those years, for the first time a driver update (450) is the worst what ever happened to me. I have a GT DD Pro now and all was running fine with 447. With 450 i have issues all over the place:
AMS2 not detecting the wheel correctly (was working fine on 447 as CSL DD)
FFB forces are totally weak now, i have to set 100% gain in game and tune in to 150% to nearly get to normal forces. Basically the road effects are all there but wheel forces from car behaviour are gone when i set normal values like max gain 60% etc.
funky switch is not recognized by AMS2 anymore
shifter does a lot of mis-shifting, the problem is back (already made the tape fix years ago and never had the problem again until driver 450)
The biggest problem are the mis-shifts because they kill or damage the engines mid-race.
On PS5 and GT7, everything works. So this must be a driver issue!
Comments
I have the same issue as someone else in this thread.
Everything works fine btw, so i could just drive around like this.
But i cant seem to upgrade wheel base motor and steering wheel.
In the beginning of the upgrade it would just freeze like many other people are mentioning, but suddely it installed the wheel base firmware.
Now im pretty stuck here, it just stays stuck and then a little box pops up when i try to update firmware " Power off wheel"
Does anyone know a fix to this?
If i need to downgrade to the previous firmware and driver, where can i find the correct version to download, cant find it on the site?
And do i need to do anything special to just install the old driver?
I had this issue and my power supply was replaced under warranty. It is the fan you are hearing. My new power supply started doing this again but is not often often yet to be of concern. Submit a ticket to Fanatec
Shifter Port #2 used to work fine also with H-Pattern on my GT-DD 8nm until the latest FW-Update.
I was forced to use this port as port #1 does not work reliable. This had connection issues out-of-the-box but I did not bother opening a support ticket as #2 worked fine all the time until now.
So I'm wondering why this function was removed.
Because it was never intended to work in Port2, that only worked by accident and in recent Firmware there was a new Filter implemented to mitigate mis-shifts. But this Filter can only work in Port1 - the Port which is designed to work in H-Pattern Mode.
So if it can work in the second port, all be it, not to the same level as port 1...why on earth would you take functionality away.
This guy is a clear example of why not to remove functionality, even if it isn't originally designed in that way.
Why would you not have a backup in the case of failure.
It's like having a spare tire in your car.
Sure, it might be a space saver... But it will get you home if the situation arises.
Do the right thing. Just enable port 2 to be used with limited functionality because if anything it just is a good look for the brand and the product.
Would you rather people be unhappy and complaining as per this example, or would you rather have people praise the product to their friends saying hey this fanatec is good stuff, in case of failure they were so smart to include a redundancy. Good job fanatec.
Nothing worse then brands taking away functionality. Many brands have done this, and the general consensus of how people feel about them changes very quickly. Once your sliding down that hill, it's almost impossible to get the people back on your side. And there's been a lot of stuff sending fanatec that way for things they've done.. Or not done more so.
Just put it back in. It doesn't take anything away.
To put it back in the Filter would need to be removed - and people would get mis-shifts again in Port1 (and Port2). So unfortunately thats not a real option.
in iRacing, the Clutch-Bitpoint has been failing at the start of the race, and sometimes mid race. I'll pull back both levers for full clutch, release the right for bite point, and then the left to go into full throttle.
After the start, pulling a single lever back should allow full clutch, but it only brings it to 50%, which is what I have the bite point set to. For the rest of the race, until I reset the wheel base, the clutch will not go to 100% using a single lever.
secondary glitching of the small screen on the wheel. It usually displays the gear I'm in, or the current speed. But stading still in game the wheel flickered between 0 and 6 on the display, and would constantly flicker and display the wrong gear while in race. I assumed it was a bad/loose connection between the wheel and base, but reattaching the wheel did no fix the issues, downgrading the driver did fix the display flickering and bad values.
I tried to temp fix this issue in driver 450 by saving a second profile to #2, but with no bite point. However, switching to profile 2 mid race selected a default profile with "Auto" steering angle, not the 360 degrees I had previously saved.
Driver 450 has been nothing but issues for me.
I've removed the Torque Key, probably until there is a fix. There's too much risk to my hands or to ruining an endurance race for my team because I had to take my hands off the wheel at speed.
In all those years, for the first time a driver update (450) is the worst what ever happened to me. I have a GT DD Pro now and all was running fine with 447. With 450 i have issues all over the place:
The biggest problem are the mis-shifts because they kill or damage the engines mid-race.
On PS5 and GT7, everything works. So this must be a driver issue!
When can we expect the next driver it's been a while since this was posted
This week.
Ahaha you're looking to be crucified! You know it will happen if something goes wrong and there's no driver this week 🤣
Luckily I know the driver is ready and I can tell you: It WILL come this week - in fact even later today :)
New driver 451 available
Please continue the discussion in the new thread, this one will be closed.