Thanks Chris, but I kind of like that title .... but I did send Thomas an E-mail to thank him for making this forum available .... I never updated my Elite base because I could never figure out "boot Loader" .... it worked {and still works } fine .. so if it ain't broke , why fix it? But with the new base it is required to update before use ... if it weren't for this forum ... I'd be staring at the un-opened box.. And the people seem much nicer these days.
Note to self: be sure to write down wheel tuning menu settings !! because when you re-flash the firmware you lose them ... duh ...who was it that said I wasn't a Noob anymore?
Note to self: be sure to write down wheel tuning menu settings !! because when you re-flash the firmware you lose them ... duh ...who was it that said I wasn't a Noob anymore?
want to test the brake and throttle control of your brand new V3 pedals and you are running Forza 6 ?? Try 82 laps at Sebring in a Prototype!! Oh, and did I mention the rain.... beware the apex may NOT be your friend... finally a race with a pit stop.. ah the fun of it all. Thanks Thomas and team. :-* < that is a big smiley face
in the rain.... I just noticed that one of the aoex puddles is going away as the race progresses ... by the way even thinking of texting while racing is dangerous... but you get to practice spin recovery in the rain!!! Now if Forza could fix the motor noise so I can stop shifting the for the car next to me !!! fun it is though. Question : in order to experience the real feel off the race .. should I order some depends?? LOL or is pause ok?
Thanks Grimey .... I'll take Vice Prez of stupid questions and dumb solutions ... by the way my Finish line arrived and works fine ... if people are getting a bit of chirping in the throttle pedal after a bit of use ... it seems to be from the inside of the pedal bracket where the bar is mounted ... bit spray there and away it goes.. ok the pit crew should have my transmission replaced by now.. later
Try a different usb port on the pc, I had that issue. One worked others didn't. Also, consider deleting then updating usb drivers after W10 update, if you did that. Do it anyway. Long shot.
The car audio in Forza is extremely low. Can't properly get my throttle down at the race start due to the rpm gauge not showing until countdown disappears and not being able to hear the engine.
WARNING: Before reading this post please read page 5 of the Club Sport V2 manual ... as this post exceeds recommended playing time!!!
3 hours and 12 minutes ---82 laps in the rain at Sebring.... and the Club Sport V2 with V3 pedals performed flawlessly.... the same can not be said for the driver. No brake fade ... even after consistent over application by the driver.... no throttle fade .... even after consistent over application by the driver... requiring more over application of the brakes by the driver .... leading to this observation : the brakes did not fade even when applied rolling backwards... no loss of force feedback in the base ... the same can not be said for the ability to apply force by the driver.... loved every minute... FYI: I love my V2 base and this is why I keep my FFB and SHO fairly mild .
@ Trevor , if your post is in reference to my chirping pedals ... it is for sure a mechanical chirp caused by high speed metal on metal interaction... and by after a bit of time I mean 3 or so hours of spin recovery training .... so a quick spray and I'm back racing Xbox/FM6/V219/FW94
Hi guy's when are we going to get a formula wheel or rim to use on the Xbox One like i have on my PS4 and PC it sux's playing F1 2015 and the formula cars on project cars with a GT rim.
I would buy something like the F1 carbon if it would do both xbox and PC like the HUB does...then switch out with quick release. My guess it would be same price as the hub and wheel now though.
Hi guy's when are we going to get a formula wheel or rim to use on the Xbox One like i have on my PS4 and PC it sux's playing F1 2015 and the formula cars on project cars with a GT rim.
Interesting you should post this , since I just yesterday sent an E-mail to Thomas about starting a product wish list thread on the forum , and this as one of two items on mine. My other is a Fanatec branded and compatibe gaming headset or line of headsets... in thinking [dangerous for me] about it some more make it wireless through a USB receiver on the hub and I'll send a development deposit tomorrow.
3m double sided foam tape and a Paper hole puncher is the perfect solution so your Button caps never come off unless you take them off!!! being the buttons them selves are concave its a perfect fit and will not make the button caps stick out extra... maybe just a Slither of a tad bit Nothing Noticeable and they wont come off unless you PULL them off!!! Better than Gluing them on because its the Semi permanent Solution and can always take the caps off to rearrange them at a later date.
I have the restart, wheel spinning and repeat issue as well. It's tough to believe that a $1000 setup needs a firmware update out of the box. ??? I don't own a PC and now downloading Windows 10 for $120 to update the firmware on my Mac. I hope this works otherwise I will not be a very happy customer. (not super pumped already)
Hello, new owner of a CSW v2 with Forza GT Rim here, having some issues: First, when I install driver version 219 the wheel boots ok in Xbox mode, but is not recognized by my computer in PC mode. When I install beta driver 226 it works as it should BUT after turning the wheel off it will boot correctly only one time. If I turn it off and on again after that, it stays in boot mode (red ring, fans running) and I have to pull the plug to turn it off. This only happens when the wheelhub is attached, without it boots normally. I'm running Win7 64 if that makes any difference.
Second, when I play it's usually quiet, but there's loud rattling when I have strong force effects in a game. Tried the safety screw, tightening it as much as I dared, turning down FFB/SHO/FOR but it's still there,
@ Bjorn, how if did you update the firmware if the PC didn't recognize it? If I am correct then V219 is a driver for windows versions 7-8 and V226 is designed to work with Windows 10 . So if your win 7 [as I am] V219 is best for now. .. you have to get it to PC mode to first update the firmware so a few questions did you update the base only first? did you then re-flash the base/hub... and if using V3's did you update the pedal only directly via a USB to the PC?...
not sure what you mean by boot mode? but here are the lights ... green = xbox when connected to the box .... red = PC mode when connected to the PC ... blue = bootloader mode , when updating the firmware.. green will be the default on start up when the hub is attached , so if you connect to the PC you must enter PC mode by ...pressing double square = Y at the same time [ lights should then be red] page 23 of the hub manual.
If you go to the "Introducing the new Clubsport Pedals V3 - UPDATE" page 15 the update procedure is there as well..
As for the rattles ... mine rattles the table next to me at time ... so let me suggest that you [if possible] make a short video and send it off to customer support ... they will better understand and be able to advise you on what to do next.
@joe Sorry, that wasn't clear: wheelbase only gets recognized, but not with the wheel attached and in PC mode. I did update the base first without the wheel. By "boot mode" I mean the few seconds after you start it up: the light will shine red and the fans are going on and the wheel will turn left and right. And I get stuck there, after the wheel turns the light stays red and the fans keep going, I can only stop that by pulling the plug. I don't have the V3 pedals, I use the CSR Elite for now.
I have the restart, wheel spinning and repeat issue as well. It's tough to believe that a $1000 setup needs a firmware update out of the box. ??? I don't own a PC and now downloading Windows 10 for $120 to update the firmware on my Mac. I hope this works otherwise I will not be a very happy customer. (not super pumped already)
Wolfgang, I have to agree, it's a none working product out of the box, so to speak. I say this, but at the same time it's a great product as well. Personally, I would never release something like this that needs a firmware update just to even work. The guys here are great help, and Joe helped me see the trees in the forest yesterday...but it did give me a bad taste right away.
first , remove all ad-ons hub,pedals, shifter.... the begin the firmware update ... if you have 219 and 226 on your PC it has been suggested that you only have the driver you are going to use on the PC ... so uninstall all Fanatec software with the control panel uninstall of the PC... next re-download V219 /fw94 ... works great with Xbox/Forza 6... next re-flash the firmware on the base only .... then attach the hub and re-flash the firmware again ... after that with the pedals if you want you may be able to update those DIRECTLY via the USB connection .... someone yesterday has the same set up and I believe he didn't need to...
if this fails you .... send a ticket off to Fanatec or look for the online support available during the day .... for that you go to the home page and if they are online there will be a bright red box to start a chat session ..or try messaging Grimey or Antoine directly. you can always do the same for me and let me know where you stand
Comments
Antoine thanks for your continued support of the community.
Thanks Chris, but I kind of like that title .... but I did send Thomas an E-mail to thank him for making this forum available .... I never updated my Elite base because I could never figure out "boot Loader" .... it worked {and still works } fine .. so if it ain't broke , why fix it? But with the new base it is required to update before use ... if it weren't for this forum ... I'd be staring at the un-opened box.. And the people seem much nicer these days.
Wow!! Feels good. Think I'll run some rivals to get a feel for the wheel. Leaving at defaults for now. Getting a workout.
XB live accout is Startech is anyone wants to rival me. In US, Indianapolis btw
Happens to the best of us >-
:x
Great job guys
in the rain.... I just noticed that one of the aoex puddles is going away as the race progresses ... by the way even thinking of texting while racing is dangerous... but you get to practice spin recovery in the rain!!! Now if Forza could fix the motor noise so I can stop shifting the for the car next to me !!! fun it is though. Question : in order to experience the real feel off the race .. should I order some depends?? LOL or is pause ok?
Thanks Grimey .... I'll take Vice Prez of stupid questions and dumb solutions ... by the way my Finish line arrived and works fine ... if people are getting a bit of chirping in the throttle pedal after a bit of use ... it seems to be from the inside of the pedal bracket where the bar is mounted ... bit spray there and away it goes.. ok the pit crew should have my transmission replaced by now.. later
WARNING: Before reading this post please read page 5 of the Club Sport V2 manual ... as this post exceeds recommended playing time!!!
3 hours and 12 minutes ---82 laps in the rain at Sebring.... and the Club Sport V2 with V3 pedals performed flawlessly.... the same can not be said for the driver. No brake fade ... even after consistent over application by the driver.... no throttle fade .... even after consistent over application by the driver... requiring more over application of the brakes by the driver .... leading to this observation : the brakes did not fade even when applied rolling backwards... no loss of force feedback in the base ... the same can not be said for the ability to apply force by the driver.... loved every minute... FYI: I love my V2 base and this is why I keep my FFB and SHO fairly mild .
@ Trevor , if your post is in reference to my chirping pedals ... it is for sure a mechanical chirp caused by high speed metal on metal interaction... and by after a bit of time I mean 3 or so hours of spin recovery training .... so a quick spray and I'm back racing Xbox/FM6/V219/FW94
Joe Rugo , you are a good man , Thanks
being the buttons them selves are concave its a perfect fit and will not make the button caps stick out extra... maybe just a Slither of a tad bit Nothing Noticeable and they wont come off unless you PULL them off!!! Better than Gluing them on because its the Semi permanent Solution and can always take the caps off to rearrange them at a later date.
First, when I install driver version 219 the wheel boots ok in Xbox mode, but is not recognized by my computer in PC mode. When I install beta driver 226 it works as it should BUT after turning the wheel off it will boot correctly only one time. If I turn it off and on again after that, it stays in boot mode (red ring, fans running) and I have to pull the plug to turn it off. This only happens when the wheelhub is attached, without it boots normally. I'm running Win7 64 if that makes any difference.
Second, when I play it's usually quiet, but there's loud rattling when I have strong force effects in a game. Tried the safety screw, tightening it as much as I dared, turning down FFB/SHO/FOR but it's still there,
Does anybody have an idea? Should I return it?
@ Bjorn, how if did you update the firmware if the PC didn't recognize it? If I am correct then V219 is a driver for windows versions 7-8 and V226 is designed to work with Windows 10 . So if your win 7 [as I am] V219 is best for now. .. you have to get it to PC mode to first update the firmware so a few questions did you update the base only first? did you then re-flash the base/hub... and if using V3's did you update the pedal only directly via a USB to the PC?...
not sure what you mean by boot mode? but here are the lights ... green = xbox when connected to the box .... red = PC mode when connected to the PC ... blue = bootloader mode , when updating the firmware.. green will be the default on start up when the hub is attached , so if you connect to the PC you must enter PC mode by ...pressing double square = Y at the same time [ lights should then be red] page 23 of the hub manual.
If you go to the "Introducing the new Clubsport Pedals V3 - UPDATE" page 15 the update procedure is there as well..
As for the rattles ... mine rattles the table next to me at time ... so let me suggest that you [if possible] make a short video and send it off to customer support ... they will better understand and be able to advise you on what to do next.
By "boot mode" I mean the few seconds after you start it up: the light will shine red and the fans are going on and the wheel will turn left and right. And I get stuck there, after the wheel turns the light stays red and the fans keep going, I can only stop that by pulling the plug.
I don't have the V3 pedals, I use the CSR Elite for now.
Wolfgang, I have to agree, it's a none working product out of the box, so to speak. I say this, but at the same time it's a great product as well. Personally, I would never release something like this that needs a firmware update just to even work. The guys here are great help, and Joe helped me see the trees in the forest yesterday...but it did give me a bad taste right away.
let me suggest this .... start over ,
first , remove all ad-ons hub,pedals, shifter.... the begin the firmware update ... if you have 219 and 226 on your PC it has been suggested that you only have the driver you are going to use on the PC ... so uninstall all Fanatec software with the control panel uninstall of the PC... next re-download V219 /fw94 ... works great with Xbox/Forza 6... next re-flash the firmware on the base only .... then attach the hub and re-flash the firmware again ... after that with the pedals if you want you may be able to update those DIRECTLY via the USB connection .... someone yesterday has the same set up and I believe he didn't need to...
if this fails you .... send a ticket off to Fanatec or look for the online support available during the day .... for that you go to the home page and if they are online there will be a bright red box to start a chat session ..or try messaging Grimey or Antoine directly. you can always do the same for me and let me know where you stand