Can you see the difference between yours and mine (mounting points) I've checked the images on the website too and my pedal doesn't match the images on the site or the manual?
Edit.. Well it does (kind of) as the images appear to use multiple different pedal type images?....
Here's a video of the clutch in action... It's missing the last half cm or so of travel which is where that "slip" feeling of engaging the clutch is felt.
Here is the metal clicking p, grinding, snapping I get when using the damper. This causes a "jolt" which means my breaking is inconsistent and difficult to apply evenly.
Unfortunately to see pictures you need to register there, wondering if Frank will be kind enough to repost them here.
Sorry i saw your posting just today. So here's the way i found to get to the PU foams.
Disassembling the brake pedal is quite easy.
First of all you should turn the preload screw at the brake pedal (the red one) to minimum setting, just to lower the stiffness of the pedal. (like on the left side of the following screenshot)
Then loosen the small screw at the bottom of the brake pedal arm. (Green arrow on that picture)
After that you can pull out the bolt (red circle) and that's it.
Wow, so easy. After you know
Thanks a lot, buddy! Something Fanatec needs to put into User's Manual
Natalie, to me it appears that the rubber block acts as a stop .... so from your video it seems that something else is stopping the arm action... try removing the brake spring and see if you get full travel ...
@Joe move it where, it's in the default position? Do you mean to tighten it?
Here's my next video of my brake constantly applying its self in the Menus. You can hear my "squeak" the ACCL pedal to advance right, and then the minor brake input signal being sent applies the RT and moves the menu back to the left, making it almost impossible to navigate :-/
Well, just found out that one of the screws holding the clutch top bar in is stripped!!! So, I can't get it out to change the spring ... it is also a bit of a task to make sure the holes are properly align when re-assembling the clutch in order not to cross thread screws.
Natalie, page 17 of the V3 manual.... just remove the spring and re- assemble the clutch with out it ... then check the travel of the clutch.... if you get full travel. then something in the lower arm may be limiting the travel .... also check to make sure the lower control arm is fully screwed into the block on the pedal ..... be careful, the set screws in those blocks strip easily so only loosen it enough to turn control bar
After some investigation, it looks like the entire area where the pedals sit flush (the metal bar that they sit flush on above the foot rest) is what's causing my flickering brake issue.
It is buckled/bent and my brake has lots of loose "play" at the front end and it's caused my accelerator pedal to not sit flush (and in fact buckle)
These need binning and starting again! I don't think I'll accept a repair, I think I'll request an exchange or refund as I think my V2s will be fine if these are not going to be exchanged, there is an issue with every pedal, the metal rest and the dampers? Unbelievable...
They are in a terrible state as you can see from the videos/images and description.
Natalie,, do you have the adjustable extensions on the clutch??? if so make sure the block on the back of the pedal arm aren't hitting each other
I do have the pedal extensions on. I could try resetting them. I'll try this now.
here's an interesting video re: my brake pedal... Damper was removed and rested in my palm to avoid anyone stating the damper was causing the issue.
The issue is either the load cell is not pushing the pedal out 100% after application or the bent panel (from the incorrectly seated throttle pedal) is stopping the pedal from returning to 100%
There is a fraction of play as the pedal only gets pushed out about 99% which is causing the pedal to transmit a tiny signal to the game! which is causing issues in game menus.
You can see in the video, as I pull back on the pedal it stops the signal and nudges the pedal back to a seated position at 100%
just checked and if I insert something between the lower bolt of the extension pedal mount and the upper bar block it will replicate the condition you have.
That said, you should not be having these issues out of the box. I have had a really good experience with Fanatec.. on my 4th wheel and base all of which are in working condition and retired for upgrades. Well except for the forced retirement of the CSR-E forza by Microsoft. Once upon a time Thomas talked about moving the assemble plant out of China, that time may have arrived. Since the issues of broken button caps [ I have one] and stripped screws are assembly and quality inspection controls.
Well, adjusting that setting out of the tolerance range does seem to replicate that issue. With all the squeaks heard on your video you might try using up the lithium they sent with the wheel .... the place it might affect the brake pedal return would probably be at the bar that holds the pedal... quick question ... is there play in the spacers used between pedals? by the I mean can you slide them back and forth a bit ??
Well, adjusting that setting out of the tolerance range does seem to replicate that issue. With all the squeaks heard on your video you might try using up the lithium they sent with the wheel .... the place it might affect the brake pedal return would probably be at the bar that holds the pedal... quick question ... is there play in the spacers used between pedals? by the I mean can you slide them back and forth a bit ??
Yea lost of play on the spacers, this was the same on my V2s The mount point and bar are covered in grease from the factory, it's literally dripping out, so they are lubed up pretty well
I've not set the pedal above 5 or below 1 at any time, so I'm thinking that the bent metal plate is causing the pedals to just all sit wonky and therefore not function within spec.
The issue is for sure an issue with the load cell not pushing the pedal back into place OR incorrectly seated. You can see here the amount of forward play on this pedal vs the other 2 when at its "flush" default position.
It's got "wiggle" which causes this to register.
So either the bent plate is causing the issue allowing the pedal to move outside its sock fuel range, or the load cell rod isn't pushing it out far enough.
I removed the damper to again demonstrate that the damper was not "pulling" on the pedal had no effect or impact.
I am in agreement .... if the base is off it is most likely to blame ... and it is a shame because the V3's are a much improved product [when right] over the V2's ... I added the damper to the throttle only , since the brake pedal feel for me is fine. And with the exception of a bit of slip in resistance in the damper piston [ which may come in handy for heel toe] it has been working well. Hope Thomas gets things sorted out. I have had both a Madcatz [never again] and the Thrustmaster TX [ hooked it up for a day and it now resides in the attic] and the Fanatec gear ,when right, surpasses both by a long shot.
My clutch pedal also goes all the way till block stop...BUT yesterday, I spent a little time on my ps4 and PCars I've had the gas pedal problem again. Like you Natalie, my gas pedal acts up the same...a little amount of gas makes the settings menu switch automatically...and also when using clutch it's very annoying to keep hearing the engine sound and not being able to break on engine before a corner...also when in rest..the engine produces about 8000 rpm.
My clutch pedal also goes all the way till block stop...BUT yesterday, I spent a little time on my ps4 and PCars I've had the gas pedal problem again. Like you Natalie, my gas pedal acts up the same...a little amount of gas makes the settings menu switch automatically...and also when using clutch it's very annoying to keep hearing the engine sound and not being able to break on engine before a corner...also when in rest..the engine produces about 8000 rpm.
I actually reported this on the PCars forum too but they said it was realistic behaviour? I offered to post a video of my car with about 0.5 cm of throttle travel applied and see my RPM vs the cars in PCars (9000rpm in game)... The thread went dead almost immediately :P it's clearly a bug in the game, and an annoying one that no one wants to acknowledge
I am in agreement .... if the base is off it is most likely to blame ... and it is a shame because the V3's are a much improved product [when right] over the V2's ... I added the damper to the throttle only , since the brake pedal feel for me is fine. And with the exception of a bit of slip in resistance in the damper piston [ which may come in handy for heel toe] it has been working well. Hope Thomas gets things sorted out. I have had both a Madcatz [never again] and the Thrustmaster TX [ hooked it up for a day and it now resides in the attic] and the Fanatec gear ,when right, surpasses both by a long shot.
Yea I absolutely agree, I keep throwing money at fanatec (4000 euro in less than 9 months), I promote them, and even "work" with them (as their first official female beta tester)
Plus, the products almost as pretty as that big hairy hunk of a man Thomas
These pedals are for the scrap heap though if I'm honest, I don't think they are salvageable. Bent metal plates (pics posted) Bent metal pedals (pics posted) Bent rods (pics posted) Every pedal has its own individual issue... Videos posted.
I'll get them picked up and returned and will accept a straight exchange or a refund ... I'm not accepting a repair job on these, thats like paying full price for a previously written off car :-/
I've mailed fanatec them with the option to exchange or refund (no repair is acceptable for a a brand new product damaged/faulty/manufactured this badly as its structurally damaged/faulty.
Natalie...I don't touch the gas pedal at all...like I said it acts up like your brake pedal...no touch but input. I even curl up my toes behind the upper edge of the pedal to releave the input...what helped in the past...Is now not helping either...gonna hook it up to pc and the function test to see if the input is standard again!!
Natalie...I don't touch the gas pedal at all...like I said it acts up like your brake pedal...no touch but input. I even curl up my toes behind the upper edge of the pedal to releave the input...what helped in the past...Is now not helping either...gonna hook it up to pc and the function test to see if the input is standard again!!
That's what I mean, you don't touch the pedal, but the game registers a small input, this input then climbs incrementally up to almost max RPM because of the way the game handles small inputs
I have the same issue, but now is solved.
First I aplay 6% deadzone on both gas/brake, but then I conect them in a pc and make (manual calibration) minimum input and maximum input.
Now in ps4 I eliminate the 6% of deadzone and no more issues.
I just have an input when I press it (like L2 / R2 in menus)
The only thing I have is, the brake when I press, notice very very sensible loadcell or with inconstant input,
this is bad in lap times of corse!!!
This I could live with, the problem is (as you can see from the videos) my entire pedal structure/frame is bending/bent/deformed. This is what (I think) is causing my issues. The metal bar that the pedals pivot on is bending too when pressure is applied. All screws are tight, but there must be a buckle in the frame that has caused the accl pedal not sit flush, and my brake to have play etc and causing these other issues too.
:-(
So I'm giving up for tonight, taking the weekend off, going to watch some TV series and them remove them from my rig and get fanatec to pick them up and either refund or exchange.
True Detective season 2 or Extant season 2... any other suggestions
Natalie...I don't touch the gas pedal at all...like I said it acts up like your brake pedal...no touch but input. I even curl up my toes behind the upper edge of the pedal to releave the input...what helped in the past...Is now not helping either...gonna hook it up to pc and the function test to see if the input is standard again!!
That's what I mean, you don't touch the pedal, but the game registers a small input, this input then climbs incrementally up to almost max RPM because of the way the game handles small inputs
I have the same issue, but now is solved.
First I aplay 6% deadzone on both gas/brake, but then I conect them in a pc and make (manual calibration) minimum input and maximum input.
Now in ps4 I eliminate the 6% of deadzone and no more issues.
I just have an input when I press it (like L2 / R2 in menus)
The only thing I have is, the brake when I press, notice very very sensible loadcell or with inconstant input,
this is bad in lap times of corse!!!
This I could live with, the problem is (as you can see from the videos) my entire pedal structure/frame is bending/bent/deformed. This is what (I think) is causing my issues. The metal bar that the pedals pivot on is bending too when pressure is applied. All screws are tight, but there must be a buckle in the frame that has caused the accl pedal not sit flush, and my brake to have play etc and causing these other issues too.
:-(
So I'm giving up for tonight, taking the weekend off, going to watch some TV series and them remove them from my rig and get fanatec to pick them up and either refund or exchange.
True Detective season 2 or Extant season 2... any other suggestions
Hello Natalie ,
in fact , I think is the best thing you can do, send back them.
But I had this problem when I connect the pedals for the first time in ps4, I used to activate it in menus L2 - R2 quickly and repeatedly and could not have control.
6% of deadzone solve this issue and if you do that I think solve yours.
But try manually calibrate the PC.
minimum input is important.
Just rest the foot in the brake and see if he puts a input if yes calibrate minimum input (it now assumes that the neutral is that point)
In Gas do the same process, and then it the gas padle and put maximum imput , even before finishing the pedal travel ( it the gas pad to the maximum and calibrate ( maximum input) and, then I calibrated in Project cars in PS4 and eliminate the deadzones and in my case, after that, now they work like a charm.
But after all your issues, I think is better replace them
Ryan...maybe your RJ12 cable is broke internal...that's the only thing I can think of, besides to be sure to use the right ports. The V3 can only be connected to the base by the RJ12 to RJ12 cable...NOT with the usb...but I'm sure you already know that.
Now the issue is looking like it's with the actual port on the CSW V2 because I reconnected my CSP V1 pedals that were working fine the day before and now they don't work either. The CSP V1 pedals use a different cable so I know the cable isn't the problem. Both pedal sets work fine via USB.
I just hooked up my CSP V3 pedals to my CSR-E that's been sitting around since October and they work fine with it. Looks like my CSW V2 base is getting sent back after Fanatec gets back to me.
Comments
Edit..
Well it does (kind of) as the images appear to use multiple different pedal type images?....
Pic one = clutch.... notice the two holes at the point where lower arm connects....
pic two = brake ..... notice the single hole at the point where the brake piston connects....
the throttle pedal matches the clutch pedal ....
https://vid.me/pSGp
https://vid.me/P6tC
Here's my next video of my brake constantly applying its self in the Menus. You can hear my "squeak" the ACCL pedal to advance right, and then the minor brake input signal being sent applies the RT and moves the menu back to the left, making it almost impossible to navigate :-/
https://vid.me/SHsQ
https://vid.me/tGUm
Well, just found out that one of the screws holding the clutch top bar in is stripped!!! So, I can't get it out to change the spring ... it is also a bit of a task to make sure the holes are properly align when re-assembling the clutch in order not to cross thread screws.
It is buckled/bent and my brake has lots of loose "play" at the front end and it's caused my accelerator pedal to not sit flush (and in fact buckle)
These need binning and starting again!
I don't think I'll accept a repair, I think I'll request an exchange or refund as I think my V2s will be fine if these are not going to be exchanged, there is an issue with every pedal, the metal rest and the dampers? Unbelievable...
They are in a terrible state as you can see from the videos/images and description.
Very very disappointed
I do have the pedal extensions on. I could try resetting them. I'll try this now.
here's an interesting video re: my brake pedal...
Damper was removed and rested in my palm to avoid anyone stating the damper was causing the issue.
The issue is either the load cell is not pushing the pedal out 100% after application or the bent panel (from the incorrectly seated throttle pedal) is stopping the pedal from returning to 100%
There is a fraction of play as the pedal only gets pushed out about 99% which is causing the pedal to transmit a tiny signal to the game! which is causing issues in game menus.
You can see in the video, as I pull back on the pedal it stops the signal and nudges the pedal back to a seated position at 100%
https://vid.me/2oNM
just checked and if I insert something between the lower bolt of the extension pedal mount and the upper bar block it will replicate the condition you have.
That said, you should not be having these issues out of the box. I have had a really good experience with Fanatec.. on my 4th wheel and base all of which are in working condition and retired for upgrades. Well except for the forced retirement of the CSR-E forza by Microsoft. Once upon a time Thomas talked about moving the assemble plant out of China, that time may have arrived. Since the issues of broken button caps [ I have one] and stripped screws are assembly and quality inspection controls.
Well, adjusting that setting out of the tolerance range does seem to replicate that issue. With all the squeaks heard on your video you might try using up the lithium they sent with the wheel .... the place it might affect the brake pedal return would probably be at the bar that holds the pedal... quick question ... is there play in the spacers used between pedals? by the I mean can you slide them back and forth a bit ??
it's currently set at 2.5
Yea lost of play on the spacers, this was the same on my V2s
The mount point and bar are covered in grease from the factory, it's literally dripping out, so they are lubed up pretty well
I've not set the pedal above 5 or below 1 at any time, so I'm thinking that the bent metal plate is causing the pedals to just all sit wonky and therefore not function within spec.
What a real shame this is...
The issue is for sure an issue with the load cell not pushing the pedal back into place OR incorrectly seated. You can see here the amount of forward play on this pedal vs the other 2 when at its "flush" default position.
It's got "wiggle" which causes this to register.
So either the bent plate is causing the issue allowing the pedal to move outside its sock fuel range, or the load cell rod isn't pushing it out far enough.
I removed the damper to again demonstrate that the damper was not "pulling" on the pedal had no effect or impact.
https://vid.me/xaRG
Yea I absolutely agree, I keep throwing money at fanatec (4000 euro in less than 9 months), I promote them, and even "work" with them (as their first official female beta tester)
Plus, the products almost as pretty as that big hairy hunk of a man Thomas
These pedals are for the scrap heap though if I'm honest, I don't think they are salvageable.
Bent metal plates (pics posted)
Bent metal pedals (pics posted)
Bent rods (pics posted)
Every pedal has its own individual issue... Videos posted.
I'll get them picked up and returned and will accept a straight exchange or a refund ... I'm not accepting a repair job on these, thats like paying full price for a previously written off car :-/
I've mailed fanatec them with the option to exchange or refund (no repair is acceptable for a a brand new product damaged/faulty/manufactured this badly as its structurally damaged/faulty.
Nuno, have you adjusted the BFR setting in the wheel tuning menu ? this really affect the force needed to lock up the brakes...
That's what I mean, you don't touch the pedal, but the game registers a small input, this input then climbs incrementally up to almost max RPM because of the way the game handles small inputs
This I could live with, the problem is (as you can see from the videos) my entire pedal structure/frame is bending/bent/deformed. This is what (I think) is causing my issues. The metal bar that the pedals pivot on is bending too when pressure is applied. All screws are tight, but there must be a buckle in the frame that has caused the accl pedal not sit flush, and my brake to have play etc and causing these other issues too.
:-(
So I'm giving up for tonight, taking the weekend off, going to watch some TV series and them remove them from my rig and get fanatec to pick them up and either refund or exchange.
True Detective season 2 or Extant season 2... any other suggestions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVy2UxMtWTw