PS4!!! Is the way to Go!!! PS4 PCars Feels Just as Good or Even Better than Assetto Corsa and iRacing after uodate 3.0 and theyre Not Finished updating Yet!! PCars will be Amazing when they finishPCars all the Updates!!!
PS4!!! Is the way to Go!!! PS4 PCars Feels Just as Good or Even Better than Assetto Corsa and iRacing after uodate 3.0 and theyre Not Finished updating Yet!! PCars will be Amazing when they finishPCars all the Updates!!!
I honestly would if there were more exclusive racers. Every other game I have is available on both so I would really only buy it for the Gran Turismo as I did my PS2.
p.s I have to say it is pretty amazing racing PCars with this Fanatec setup.
I bought My PS4 just to play PCars... Ive found that Racing on PS3 and PS4 is Much Much Closer to Racing on PC than Xbox... Ive always been more of a XBox guy but its time for me to Change Teams Xbox and Forza has let me down 1 too many times...Especially with all this fanatec Gear being sooo Good... Expensive Too!!!... It will just be waisted if i didnt expaned beyond XBox... i also Race Assetto Corsa on PC ... I dumped IRacing because i didnt like that i cant own any content and if you dont renew your IRacing Membership all your $$$ spent is stuck in limbo untill you renew it... You cant even play it Off Line!!! That Sucks!!! I was even thinking to go to Full into PC Racing only but PS4 PCars Shows that the Line between PC and Console is Razor thin Now... So i will stick with console becase i just love the ease of plug and Play... if i had to Tweek the FFB for PCars and Tweek with PC Driver and Graphics settings just to play PCars i would have been Given up on it. All the Tweeking Becomes like work and less like Fun and Play time. Took 3 weeks and 100+ hrs to get my PCars FFB Right but it was worth it... I woulda Smashed my PC if i had to do Graphics and System Settings too!!!
Me too, bought ps4 to play PCars with my, now sold, BMW rim. And now using the XOne hub on both systems... I do feel some noticeable difference. On ps4 it feels, in a weird way, smoother...just can't lay my finger on it. I guess the new XOne ffb protocol isn't the brightest idea they had..
PS4 PCars the FFB is Linear Smooth and even trough out the Turn... Sort of like the cars have Power Sterring... is the FFB on XB1 Linear or Progerssive??? I get the impression from what ive been reading that its Progressive the more you turn the Harder it is to turn.
Antoine Did you get your FFB sorted by setting the SPR/DPR back to 100???
Can't tell....it's since the Fanatec gear I became more serious with race games.
Didn't have the time or will, cause of work, to race and try. As soon as I get to it I'll let you know.
For those that are not on PCars forum...I found the wheel pulling problem. I had the Linkage Scale, found in ffb calibration settings list, set to 0.18. Just leave/set it to 0.00 !!!
I emailed support but was curious if other users have experienced the same thing.
Am I suppose to have some specific version of drivers and firmware to get the CSP V3 pedals to work by plugging them into my CSW V2 wheel? I can't get my CSW V2 to recognize the pedals. The CSW V2 has firmware 110 and the pedals have firmware 1.12 The pedals work fine connected via USB. Also, my CSW V2 recognizes my CSP V1 pedals just fine.
Unfortunately to see pictures you need to register there, wondering if Frank will be kind enough to repost them here.
Sorry i saw your posting just today. So here's the way i found to get to the PU foams.
Disassembling the brake pedal is quite easy.
First of all you should turn the preload screw at the brake pedal (the red one) to minimum setting, just to lower the stiffness of the pedal. (like on the left side of the following screenshot)
Then loosen the small screw at the bottom of the brake pedal arm. (Green arrow on that picture)
After that you can pull out the bolt (red circle) and that's it.
Ryan...maybe your RJ12 cable is broke internal...that's the only thing I can think of, besides to be sure to use the right ports. The V3 can only be connected to the base by the RJ12 to RJ12 cable...NOT with the usb...but I'm sure you already know that.
Would anyone be so kind as to confirm if their clutch pedal rod/arm touches the rubber block (like v2 pedals) or does it sit about 1cm above the rubber block when fully engaged?
Would anyone be so kind as to confirm if their clutch pedal rod/arm touches the rubber block (like v2 pedals) or does it sit about 1cm above the rubber block when fully engaged?
Cheers
I don't have the pedals, but if you feel that you have less travel in the clutch (or throttle) try slackening the 2 nuts at the end of the rod, and screw the rod fully in to the pedal block.
Would anyone be so kind as to confirm if their clutch pedal rod/arm touches the rubber block (like v2 pedals) or does it sit about 1cm above the rubber block when fully engaged?
Cheers
Natalie I remembered you telling about this a few days ago. I received my V3 pedals today & checked that movement before installing as I have come from v1's. I can tell you definitely it does touch completely and I see that is actually how the movement is designed - staggered 2 stage to simulate slip similar to car clutch. The narrower strut at the top should lay flat/parallel on the block (it is metal not rubber). I notice that the tension spring is then at near to 100% compression.
If your pedal is stopping before coming to that full position just visually check there is nothing blocking the movement, look at the pivot axis. I would also disassemble the clutch as per the instructions from the downloadable manual at "5.6.2 - Exchanging the Clutch Spring". It is an easy process, take it slowly and look carefully at the order in which you undo the components. Just check the movement and operation of each element of the assembly and look for any obvious sign of damage in each part. Then reassemble everything carefully and check the operation again. If you still find the clutch movement is not operating fully then I would suggest RMA. There is always the chance something was seated incorrectly during assembly and this process may set things right - worth a shot, costs your nothing and may save time & stress.
Good luck and let us know how you go. cheers mark.
ps. Haven't tried mine yet, just setup and about to go racing !
@Andrew Brynden ~ sorry just saw your post. Vaseline is just a brand name and you can pickup generic brands of pure petroleum jelly in most chemist/drugstore/supermarket. This will work fine if the PUfoam is dry or sticking - you only need a small amount smeared on the surface of the foam. I received my V3 pedals today and the brake operates smoothly without issue. The supplied Lithium grease appears to be the general purpose variety. The spray white lithium I mentioned is thinner but just follow Fanatec's advice.
So next test: Can anyone with the V3 and project cars try the following:
Set brake pressure to 2 or above...
Launch PCars with pad At (press x screen) power on wheel, then press x Go to options Controls Navigate to edit assignments Now use your brake/accl to navigate through the edit menus... (But no need to change anything) go fully to the right, then left then back to the right and leave the curser on the "game" section Wait Wait Wait
Does your RT button trigger and essentially cause the cursor to bounce back to the left?
My brake is essentially always sending out a tiny signal IF I adjust the brake pressure in any way?
If anyone can test this and report back. I'm certain my pedals are not working correctly as my clutch has no slip, my accl pedal isn't seated correctly (it seems slightly bent) and my brake sends out a tiny fraction of a signal if I ever adjust the brake passed default?
Would anyone be so kind as to confirm if their clutch pedal rod/arm touches the rubber block (like v2 pedals) or does it sit about 1cm above the rubber block when fully engaged?
Cheers
Hi Natalie, mine touch the rubber block completely too, like in v2.
The movement and the feeling is the same.
But, I think you can adjust, i will see and let you know.
Here is my accl pedal, you can see that it too is bent/tiled a few mm off the foot rest.
I'm becoming disheartened My HB is intermittently playing up (I'm going to open it up and have a look at the connections later today) my dampers are "clicking" during use, my buttons were cracked on arrival, my clutch won't fully throw, my pedal is bent and fanatec want me to pay to return the faulty items to Germany
I've no money left All this faulty equipment cost me over €4000 euro already, and I haven't been able to fully use it :-/
My brake applies a tiny amount (flickering on/off) in every game (including the driver) the issue I have is that some games use the pedals for menu navigation, meaning I can't navigate the menus correctly in these instances.
Just checked (thanks for posting the images) and screws are installed. Not sure why the throttle pedal is bent, perhaps just a manufacturing defect maybe?
But my clutch and brake issues are mind boggling? Can you post a pic of your clutch bar (like mine posted above) when fully engaged? Does your clutch also touch the block like the V2?
I did check it and it fully contacts the rubber block.... which is what prompted the missing screw question. How hard is it to get your pedals to a flat surface to make sure the are in alignment ? See video early in this discussion...
What's weird, is that the holes on my pedals appear to be different from holes on yours and the website? My drill holes / mounting points appear to be in slightly different locations/pattern?
Do the drill holes on your clutch pedal, match up exactly the same as the ACCL pedal?
I was just going to ask what holes was the upper control arm positioned.... hmmm.... the video I was referring to is on this page of this discussion and toward the end mentions the alignment of the base itself.... posted by Andrew Brydin
Ok , without taking them apart..... the throttle and clutch pedal arms are the same in both length [apx 15 cm ] .. the drill pattern appears to be the same ..... the Brake pedal arm is a different drill pattern entirely
Comments
PS4 PCars Feels Just as Good or Even Better than Assetto Corsa and iRacing after uodate 3.0 and theyre Not Finished updating Yet!! PCars will be Amazing when they finishPCars all the Updates!!!
I guess the new XOne ffb protocol isn't the brightest idea they had..
Antoine Did you get your FFB sorted by setting the SPR/DPR back to 100???
Didn't have the time or will, cause of work, to race and try. As soon as I get to it I'll let you know.
For those that are not on PCars forum...I found the wheel pulling problem. I had the Linkage Scale, found in ffb calibration settings list, set to 0.18. Just leave/set it to 0.00 !!!
Disassembling the brake pedal is quite easy.
First of all you should turn the preload screw at the brake pedal (the red one) to minimum setting, just to lower the stiffness of the pedal. (like on the left side of the following screenshot)
Then loosen the small screw at the bottom of the brake pedal arm. (Green arrow on that picture)
After that you can pull out the bolt (red circle) and that's it.
The V3 can only be connected to the base by the RJ12 to RJ12 cable...NOT with the usb...but I'm sure you already know that.
Cheers
The GT Rim is on the Rig so not in shot, and I now want to buy a BMW rim... So it's either brand new or if anyone's selling one for a good price
Can anyone with the V3 and project cars try the following:
Set brake pressure to 2 or above...
Launch PCars with pad
At (press x screen) power on wheel, then press x
Go to options
Controls
Navigate to edit assignments
Now use your brake/accl to navigate through the edit menus... (But no need to change anything) go fully to the right, then left then back to the right and leave the curser on the "game" section
Wait
Wait
Wait
Does your RT button trigger and essentially cause the cursor to bounce back to the left?
My brake is essentially always sending out a tiny signal IF I adjust the brake pressure in any way?
If anyone can test this and report back.
I'm certain my pedals are not working correctly as my clutch has no slip, my accl pedal isn't seated correctly (it seems slightly bent) and my brake sends out a tiny fraction of a signal if I ever adjust the brake passed default?
I'm becoming disheartened
My HB is intermittently playing up (I'm going to open it up and have a look at the connections later today) my dampers are "clicking" during use, my buttons were cracked on arrival, my clutch won't fully throw, my pedal is bent and fanatec want me to pay to return the faulty items to Germany
I've no money left
All this faulty equipment cost me over €4000 euro already, and I haven't been able to fully use it :-/
Natalie, here's the area I was referring to
hex screw
Just checked (thanks for posting the images) and screws are installed. Not sure why the throttle pedal is bent, perhaps just a manufacturing defect maybe?
But my clutch and brake issues are mind boggling? Can you post a pic of your clutch bar (like mine posted above) when fully engaged? Does your clutch also touch the block like the V2?
I did check it and it fully contacts the rubber block.... which is what prompted the missing screw question. How hard is it to get your pedals to a flat surface to make sure the are in alignment ? See video early in this discussion...
What's weird, is that the holes on my pedals appear to be different from holes on yours and the website?
My drill holes / mounting points appear to be in slightly different locations/pattern?
Do the drill holes on your clutch pedal, match up exactly the same as the ACCL pedal?
It looks like a completely different mounting point, perhaps that would explain the lack of throw...?
I think they may have attached the wrong pedal to my unit as that's not the pattern displayed on the images on the site?
I was just going to ask what holes was the upper control arm positioned.... hmmm.... the video I was referring to is on this page of this discussion and toward the end mentions the alignment of the base itself.... posted by Andrew Brydin
RMA is looking like the only option...