I’ve tested the 336 driver package with included firmware on my dd2 but I noticed that with my same exact settings the perceived strength and feedback is now reduced .
On 334 and 335 ( with included firmwares )
I use this settings
F.feedb 15
Force 100
Spr 100
Dpr 100
Nat dmp 015
Nat fri 003
F.eff.int 60
On the sim ( rfactor2 ) I always use total force set to 0.80 and smoothing set to 0
But now with this new 336 ( and included firmwares ) I have to use the following settings to match the strength but FFB I have with 335 ( and included firmwares ) is gone ... I can’t obtain the same feelings with 336 compared to 335
F.feedb 21
Force 100
Spr 100
Dpr 100
Nat dmp 020
Nat fri 007
F.eff.int 80
Please ... can you revert the ffb changes of 336 to 335 ( but include the fix you have introduced with 336 ?
Just to ask because i’m Not sure
When DD2 is powered off it is normal to feel a ( gear Teeth effect ) when turn the steering wheel ?
Sorry for my English .
Regards .
Set Natural Friction to 0 it cancels FFB effects especially with your very low strength settings. Same about Natural Damper, no wonder when you increase it that you loose feeling, there you should maybe try 10.
did something change in driver 337 regarding the power off on the DDs? When I hold the Power button for like 5 secs there is a message regarding the torque. I have to press the power button for 10 secs now.
Driver works fine for me on DD1 with Formula V2 F1 2018 LE
did something change in driver 337 regarding the power off on the DDs? When I hold the Power button for like 5 secs there is a message regarding the torque. I have to press the power button for 10 secs now.
Driver works fine for me on DD1 with Formula V2 F1 2018 LE
It's because of the new power button handling but will be fixed. It was planned to still have 3 seconds like before and an additional function of a very short press to disable torque or re-enable it. But now the time to shut it off has increased to 5 seconds and the disable torque function needs a full second which was not what we've planned.
did something change in driver 337 regarding the power off on the DDs? When I hold the Power button for like 5 secs there is a message regarding the torque. I have to press the power button for 10 secs now.
Driver works fine for me on DD1 with Formula V2 F1 2018 LE
the new features for disable the torque is a nice add .
can you set the "hold timer" to 0.5 Sec to disable the torque and 1.5 sec to Power off the base ?.
I have noticed that in driver 336 the total amount of torque "ff+fei+nat dmp+nat fri" ( seems ) slightly less compared to 334/335 with my usual settings.
In 337 seems that the total FFB is restored to the 335, nice... but can be a placebo effect, i'm not sure.
"Podium DD2" Formula v2 "both - gold/Silver"
Note:
In this new driver 337 if you unlock the torque with 90 Degrees the driver settings page show the Universal Hub with Podium Paddles attached but immediately freeze and the panel crash. ( Only if you unlock the hi.trq with 90 degrees ).
Again planned is a very short press for torque and still 3 seconds to shut it off. I look into if it's possible to shut it down immediately after 3sec without the need to release the button first.
I would say it's placebo but can't say for 100% because regarding FFB strength and so on there where no changes. Always possible that something else interferes.
Again planned is a very short press for torque and still 3 seconds to shut it off. I look into if it's possible to shut it down immediately after 3sec without the need to release the button first.
I would say it's placebo but can't say for 100% because regarding FFB strength and so on there where no changes. Always possible that something else interferes.
I'll try the torque unlock problem.
Thnak you, Marcel .
Anyway.. i love this DD.. really. i made all my videos on my channel with a sticker on it that say
Thanks, will investigate, can you go way more into detail please! List Driver, Firmware, Settings and describe the issue.
Hello Marcel, I have a couple of doubts about the new v337 driver which is what really changes a comparison of the v336? The engine fw is still the same? I speak it since I have the CSL elite ps4
When I navigate through the OLED screens of the wheel base the button press of the FunkySwitch is always also recognized by the game. That's pretty annoying.
I already had the same with driver 334 and 335 and also with my Formula Carbon wheel, so it's no new behavior
Edit:
Another thing is, that sometimes when I turn on my wheel base it seems to freeze. It then stucks at one of the starting screens and doesn't do anything anymore. Regardless which button I press, nothing happens.
And in this situation I'm also not able to turn off the wheel base anymore. It then only turns off when I press the E-Stop on the kill switch. My DD2 shows this behavior sometimes since I have the F1 2019 wheel. With the Formula Carbon I never had this. I have the feeling, this only happens when the wheel base was turned of for a couple of time.
It also shows sometime the message "ATTENTION Enable torque?", sometimes "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted! Please read the manuals safety guidelines before use." and sometimes a blank screen. When it shows the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message I have do acknowledge only this message. When it shows "ATTENTION Enable torque?" I have to acknowledge this message first and after that I get the "CAUTION Torque Key Inserted..." message and I have to acknowledge this message, too. I'm not sure, but I think this is also since I have the F1 2019 wheel attached.
First issue is not a Fanatec related issue. You have to remap the in game buttons to something else. I don't think it's possible to get the D-Pad button presses recognized only by the Base and not by the game.
Second issue is known and under investigation.
So the second issue is known and not a problem with the power switch? I posted the same issue (I don't get "Caution Torque Key Inserted" message since I am not using the torque key) about it locking up on GTPlanet.Net and DomB said I need to send it in or replacement. So it's not broken and no need for replacement? My issue is with the Formula V2 and DD2, it works fine with the universal hub and DD2. I am running "Fanatec_64_driver_335" and before that i was running "Fanatec_64_driver_334" with the same issue but occurred more often. I did not know about this package until a day ago. Also sent a request for "tech support / RMA" on June 13th with a video if you want to see the issue.
I am Not getting Good Feel Across games with DR 336/FW 656
Dr 336/FW 656 feels horrible with Race Room... The steering is Very skittish and wheel center feels harsh.. .Even though DOR is set to Auto it feels very much like the DOR is being set wrong.... Its Not smooth and flowing with Race Room...Maybe its the Notchy feel thats been mentioned.... but feels Great with Assetto Corsa Competitzion .
Dr 334 /FW 651 Feels great with Race Room and ACC Both games the steering is Smooth and flowing but.
For me when I use DR 334/FW 656 together I get the best feel.
Can some one else try ACC and Race Room with the Default 334 and 336 Drivers and wheel FW...then try the DR 334/FW 656 combination test if what I'm feeling is valid or a just perceived placebo.
Also I notice when Closing a game RRE, ACC, Dirt rally 2.0 in steam that the Mouse Arrow stays as a Blue loading Circle Excessively longer with DR 336 than it does with DR 334.
R3E has some weird settings about steering rotation you can experiment with, I think you need to set it up to resemble the setup in the options. You can check if it's correct with an onboard camera where you see the steering wheel. The driver version shouldn't make a difference with FFB feel so I'm a bit confused that it does for you. Normally only motor driver or base firmware can. Especially that it's fine in another game doesn't look like something is wrong on the wheel side. please investigate a bit more and let me know.
R3E has some weird settings about steering rotation you can experiment with, I think you need to set it up to resemble the setup in the options. You can check if it's correct with an onboard camera where you see the steering wheel. The driver version shouldn't make a difference with FFB feel so I'm a bit confused that it does for you. Normally only motor driver or base firmware can. Especially that it's fine in another game doesn't look like something is wrong on the wheel side. please investigate a bit more and let me know.
Hello... I have checked and even triple checked this over the weekend and I find its something about DR 336 and the way it handles center of wheel feel in RRE... On wheel and All RRE settings are the same settings when i test both DR 336 vs 334.... I checked the SEn on wheel and in RRE Game settings --> In the Garage car tuning Menu and the game is setting Wheel Sen correctly according to car.... I only describe the issue that it feels a Wheel SEn is being set wrong because the steering feels skiddish... the feeling is You have Nice wheel weight and around TDC (top dead center) while going though corners the wheel weight changes suddenly then comes back abruptly.... Take Note Its Not a Dead Zone issue.... Seems its something about the way DR 336 handles wheel weight/FFB ramp up around TDC is the best way to describe it.... Using Dr 334 with FW 656 solves the issue for Me and hives Me the best FFB In All games ACC, RRE, Pcars2 and AC... In fact i played AC all weekend and was blown away by how Good it felt... AC has Never felt this Good before....DR 334 FW 656 combo feels Really Good..... I dont know what the issue is but if you can test DR 336 FW 646 with ACC and RRE the difference in how wheel top dead center feels should be very clearly felt.... Other than that it may be My PC doesn't relate to DR 336 well.
@ Lorrell You did only change the driver and not the Firmware, right? We need to separate this from each other. The driver does not alter FFB effects in any way. They are not even reprocessed in the driver at the moment.
"f you report a driver or firmware issue, please make cross checks:
0. Update driver and FW separately to isolate an issue. Most likely it will be driver OR firmware.
1. Which driver OR firmware does show the issue
2. Which driver OR firmware does not show the issue
3. Check if you can reproduce the issue again if you go back to the version which seems to have cause the issue
4. Post the answers gathered from the questions above + a short description of the issue including the following information:"
@ Lorrell You did only change the driver and not the Firmware, right? We need to separate this from each other. The driver does not alter FFB effects in any way. They are not even reprocessed in the driver at the moment.
"f you report a driver or firmware issue, please make cross checks:
0. Update driver and FW separately to isolate an issue. Most likely it will be driver OR firmware.
1. Which driver OR firmware does show the issue
2. Which driver OR firmware does not show the issue
3. Check if you can reproduce the issue again if you go back to the version which seems to have cause the issue
4. Post the answers gathered from the questions above + a short description of the issue including the following information:"
Hello Armin thank you for your response but after today's testing My findings are still the same as My original post... Also Note that I swapped P.C Driver and Wheel Firmware many times over the weekend and again today to recheck My findings and the Results are exactly the same... the issue can be reproduced.
No In Game FFB settings changes were made during testing and i find that Dr 336 FW 656 does Not give all around Good FFB feel with all games This can be clearly felt by any one who wants to test and see for themselves...The best part is if you have FW 656 on your wheel already all you Need do is roll the PC back to Dr 334 No Need to update or flash the wheel...the difference is obvious.
Dr 336 FW 656 feels Great with Assetto Corsa Competizion but Race Room the steering feel is Not Good and has much Less FFB detail.
I find the Best Dr/Fw combo is Dr 334 FW 656 this gives the Best overall Wheel Feel and very detailed FFB Across ACC, RRE, rF2.
Please investigate and test this ... Test with ACC and RRE and it will be felt right away... I used the AMG Gt3 Mercedes in both games for testing... i don't think the car makes a difference though because All FFB and car settings were exactly the same both test.
Hello everyone I need your help with a topic that always caused me doubt, which USB port is better for all Fanatec Wheels base 2.0 or 3.0? Is there a real difference between connecting it in one port or another? It is very interesting to know your opinion and that of those responsible for Fanatec of course. as a data I do this query because in the specifications of my CSL Elite ps4 says:
* Fast 1000 Hz USB update rate
This corresponds to the transfer speed, latency? I ask it also because it is very known that USB 3.0 is faster than 2.0, so which is the best option?
the hardest brake force of the pedals on usb feel like 100%. really hard after a race your leg is happy for a pause
When the pedals are connected to the DD1 base, It is like 75% force(even on hardest setting). It is definetly better than V335 which seemed less than 50% force.
But what I would like is some similarities beetween the 2. There SHOULD NOT be any difference at the same setting (hardest brakeforce) regardless if they are plugged into usb or into the base. mat.tibo@hotmail.com for any question
Hello everyone I need your help with a topic that always caused me doubt, which USB port is better for all Fanatec Wheels base 2.0 or 3.0? Is there a real difference between connecting it in one port or another? It is very interesting to know your opinion and that of those responsible for Fanatec of course. as a data I do this query because in the specifications of my CSL Elite ps4 says:
* Fast 1000 Hz USB update rate
This corresponds to the transfer speed, latency? I ask it also because it is very known that USB 3.0 is faster than 2.0, so which is the best option?
I am very attentive to your opinions. Regards !
Both are fine, controller signals don't push the bandwidth to it's limits and internally the devices uses 2.0 anyway.
Hi!
Does anybody else besides Bjorn have random freezes powering up or changing mode on DD2?
Does it happen only with a specific wheel?
Is it dependent on USB connection?
Does it happen with different firmware versions?
Hi Marcel, I only have formula V2 but I have a friend with f1 2018 and he says it happens to him to...
I would swear that it did not happend with 337 but I'm not sure... Since it was removed I made a rollback to 336
I have this with the F1 2019 with driver 335 and 336 but since 336 I have the feeling that it's way better as I had only maybe 3 freezes since 336. But it seems that the steering wheel freezes also.
And it seems the multiple torque messages on the wheel bases OLED are generated at the same time when the OLED screen of the F1 2019 changes while the startup process.
Comments
the new features for disable the torque is a nice add
Thnak you, Marcel
Anyway.. i love this DD.. really. i made all my videos on my channel with a sticker on it that say
You did only change the driver and not the Firmware, right? We need to separate this from each other. The driver does not alter FFB effects in any way. They are not even reprocessed in the driver at the moment.
"f you report a driver or firmware issue, please make cross checks: