GT DD Pro and Wheel Keep Disconnecting
Tanner Marty
Member
I am just getting done running a league race at Chicago Street Coarse. 100 laps total, and I get to lap 85 in p7 and the wheel goes slop and I go straight into the wall for an early night off. This is by far the first time this ahs happened and it happens constantly. I have never used full amount of FFB because the higher i go the faster it seems to happen. I have to reseat my wheel daily and check it every race. I crank down on the collar as much as I can to the point i am expecting it to break. Is there any solution to this issue to where it is not a fear in the back of my head while racing? Really frustrating to spend this money and get such a cheap retaining piece that works partially. I get i bought low end version but a issue like this makes me question if upgrading and spending double the money is going to eliminate that issue. Sorry for venting and thank you for tasking the time to read this. Main question here is there anyway to keep the Wheel base and Wheel from wiggling loose and disconnecting? I am about to put a High pressure clamp on it but dont want to mess up the plastic around wheel base shaft.
Comments
Is very strange. When the black clamp disengages, you lose the FFB and buttons, but you should be able to steer the car.
In my case the disconnects were caused by electromagnetic interference not by the black clamp.
Unfortunately the big problem of Fanatec is the connection between Wheelbase and steering wheel. Not just disconnections, but lots and lots of flex, both with QR1 and QRLite. They just can't handle the force of a DD.
These problems are well known now, why do people keep buying?
I run my DD Pro at 100% FFB and have had no issues whatsoever with the QR1 and shaft clamp. I did loosen the clamp once to recenter the shaft due to the wheel being off centre on rotation. I used a torque wrench to tighten to 15Nm and it's been perfect.
Buy some metal tape from a hardware store and stick it on the shafts this will stop the flex on the shaft and the connection with the wheel.
I had the same issue. re seating just worked for a short time so i contacted support. After few emails (explain the problem that just re seating didnt fix the problem) ... They send me a RMA . and wheelbase was sent in for repair. Got a new shaft and new Updated clamps...Since then everything works perfectly.
Interesting, i got a brand new GT DD PRO W/Boost Kit a few weeks ago and have nothing but trouble with it. First the wheel wasn't detected at all, ever. FW update could see it, then the main software, nothing. They sent me a new QR1L (I was always suspect of how flimsy it seemed) which didn't do much. I was told they cant send out the metal one, but i can buy it. Umm, no, not buying something to make your product work.
Currently, the software sees the wheel, but if you run a force feedback test or actually turn the wheel, it disconnects. Given the amount of support interactions, the lack of a resolution, I'm about ready to throw in the towel and just RMA it all for a full refund. It shouldn't be this hard...
I haven't even gone into the shear amount of shaft wobble present...
I had that wheel disconnect issue bad to the point of being unusable. I was disappointed to find so many others going through the same for over 2 years but there were very very few solid solutions offered. I had tightened that stock aluminum 1-bolt clamp so tight that the ends literally touched without ever solving the problem for more than a few minutes. I replaced the cheap stretched out aluminum single-bolt clamp with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Climax-M2C-30-Plating-Clamping-millimeter/dp/B0020822LA/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
and I've put 18-20 hours of 100% uptime on my GT DD Pro. No disconnects. No sudden loss of control mid-race. The only problem my rig has now is the loose nut on the steering wheel (me).