Even with the strength set to 10 in game and 100 on the base many people still report that the FFB is basically not existing and you can turn the wheel with one Finger. So they definitely changed something with the Torque range and their Intention surely was that you can now use the full in game strength range without clipping but Something must have gone massively wrong with the new update when the wheel is now super light even with strength fully maxed out.
Until they did not fixed their FFB I will not start this game ever again to uselessly spent my time on it.
The only time I enjoyed GT7 was in 1.15 with Maurice's preset. I hadn't touched it for over a year, but I got curious with the update.
With the AUTO preset it feels very soft in some cars/situations, but I don't notice clipping like before. Now I've tried using Maurice's 1.15 preset but with the 4-1 in-game configuration, and I don't see any clipping. It's not great, but you can feel where you're rolling and if you lose grip. I think that from that config you can get some interesting things. I'll leave it here in case you want to try it:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 50
NFR: 25
NIN: OFF
INT: 3
FEI: 90
FOR: 120
SPR: OFF
DPR: OFF
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 4
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
PD: When I was on 1.15 I used dd pro, now I use dd+.
I had both the 8NM base and now the DD+ and I simply used the recommended settings for the 8NM one on the DD+ (base at 100%) game at 50% and even on the 1.49 update the game was pretty decent, did 90 minutes on the 25th to earn the cars ....and then like an idiot I flashed 457 cause I thought maybe extra features and now its literally as everyone says .... zero fbb you can blow the steering wheel to make a turn now ..... I don't think it was the update alone because otherwise everyone would be going nuts right now and I do not see large enough whinning about it ...... hope it gets resolved cause its a fun game
After a long weekend of installing, unistalling, flashing and nearly bricking the wheelbase here is what I have experienced (and it has been performing excellently for the lasr hour no issues and strong FFB) (DD+ gt2 bmw wheel, elite v2 pedals and fanatec shifter)
thursday update 1.49 came out .... I played for a couple of hours and enjoyed it on driver 455
friday morning i installed driver 457 (always fishing for more ) and it backfired ..... all of a sudden formula cars felt on air , same reports as many others ....... but I did not feel that prior to 457 ....
saturday , installing and unistalling I ended up locking up the wheelbase on "update mode" and it stayed there most of saturday ...
sunday ..... i tried something new , unistalled all drivers and installed 454 ..... works like a charm except i always have to unplug the usb or it feezes, so I upgraded to 455 and that issue was resolved ....
next it asked me to update firmware to the 2.0.104 or whatever the latest one is ..... and that one starts giving me issues ...... so
currently I run 455 with the firmware not updated and the wheelbase feels phenomenal .... formula cars on 8 TQ in game and 2 sensitivity with the wheelsbase set at 100 % feels solid and even knocked 3 sec off nordschleiffe from 5:36 to 5:33
I am not claiming anything, I am simply sharing my fiasco this weekend ...... have spent the last few hours optimizong the settings and it feels really good although I do have to now bring down TQ on some cars and up it on others .... between 5-8 in game is enough so obviously something is going on beyond just the GT7 side ........
my base has been back from the RMA since yesterday and I was finally able to test it myself.
my in-game settings were 5/1, which felt really easy. Since it is assumed that 1-10 is the range up to 100%, I first set it to 8 and then to 10. I played around a bit with the sensitivity and ended up with 10/4. I tested with Gr.3 cars. I have to say that nothing feels easy, in terms of feeling I would say that nothing feels light at all. In terms of feel, I would say that it feels like the full 8nm of my base before the patch. I would even go further and say that I feel more details. I notice understeering and oversteering much better, so I can react better.
I've also started playing around with the settings on my DD Pro, but unfortunately I don't have enough experience. My current Settings:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 30
NFR: OFF
NIN: OFF
INT: 3
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 10
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 4
So here's my request again: I would really appreciate it if you would take another look at it.
Anyone have any settings for the dd1 that work with gran turismo after the 1.49 update? Everything feels horrible no matter what now. I can get good feel in each group of car but it’s not consistent from group to group and I need to change settings for each group now. Absurd. If I get settings dialed for gr3, then gr1 is not possible to drive. My wheel uncontrollably shakes and vibrates side to side no matter what I do with settings. The only thing that fixes it is lowering the force feedback so much that you just can’t feel anything. Anything with more downforce than gr3 or gr4 just uncontrollably shakes and vibrates. Even gr3 does this in the straights but I can control it. Also, why is this only happening while going straight? Why on earth is my wheel going crazy side to side on a straight? This update ruined my entire experience now because it’s pretty much not drivable
We can only hope that someone with the knowledge that Maurice has on this topic, can help to make the best of it. I would really appreciate any recommendations from Fanatec to setup this officially licensed GT7 wheel instead of constantly mocking that GT7's feedback is broken and therefore refuse to provide any help or guidance. It isn't that bad after all. A bit disappointed about the Fanatec support...
Since 1.49 update, these are my Settings with a Podium 1 base and the Playstation F1 wheel package. Also with the latest PUBLIC Drivers/Firmwares. Not Betas.
In Game Controller settings:
FFB Max Torque: 10
FFB Sensitivity: 10
WheelBase Settings:
FFB Str: 65
FF Scale: Peak
NDP: 20
NFR: 20
NIN: 5
FFB INT: 5
FEI: 100
Force Effect Str: 30
Spring Effect: OFF
Damper Effect: OFF
NOTES:
The in game Max Torque, FFB Str, NDP, NFR, NIN all seem to be in concert with one another. While outside of the 'sim environment' (any screen not allowing players do drive basically) the wheel has a recentering function. All of those settings in some combination allows you to 'critically dampen' the recentering. OR NOT if you don't want to.
The FFB INT allows the sensations in the wheel to not feel so 'peaky' and 'sharp' (within the sim environment)
The Force Effect Str: Allows to lower signal strength (amplitudes) while not compromising in game Max Torque and/or wheelbase FFB Str settings.
Still just 3,9 Nm Peaks on a DD1... Not really a good recommendation to others to limit such a high-powered base to such a Low strength which will also result in unavoidable clipping with such base settings combined with such in-game settings...
So what do you think should be adjusted if you think you know enough to critique NUMBERS... because I KNOW what setting EXACTLY to adjust for you to shut the hell up. ???
Please enlighten me as to what you think settings should be adjusted???
FYI: I can get the wheel to peak over 5 Nm so how ever you derived your 3.9 Nm Peak is completely wrong.
On top of that... I can park the cars and let go of the wheel and it not violently oscillate for no apparent reason... which is more than I can say for what's been shown on youtube for the past 6 years with these direct drive wheels from Fanatec. so please... like i said... shut the hell up...
because steering wheels when cars parked DO NOT VIOLENTLY OSCILLATE
Of course you do not get oscillations with such low FFB strenfth (which are btw a game issue of GT7 and console limitation with the USB refresh rate) which are not happening on other games on PC even with higher FFB settings.
Real cars also require more than just 3,9 Nm steering Torque ...😅
The Nm shown in the P DD OLED is just a rough guess and not a "real" calculated or measured and accurate value, the base doesn't have a torquemeter built in or something like that. It's pure guessing what Nm value the base could possibly output at this very moment based on current settings and game signal. Thing is that you try to compensate the low FFB strength allowed by the motor with a high in-game strength setting of 10 which just results in unavoidable clipping. Therefore the OLED shows "wrong" and too high values which are technically not possible to achieve anymore.
Mathematically correct however is that you Limit your P DD1 with these settings to just 3,9 Nm (20Nm x 65% x 30% = 3,9Nm).
For such low FFB strength people can save 1k and just go with a CSL DD 5Nm Base and they would have the exact same experience so these settings shouldnt be recommended to anyone who really wants to get the best out of their quite expensive base.
But hey, if YOU are happy with these settings then that's totally fine. It just isnt something to try by others as they very likely wouldn't like it when they had spent quite a lot of money for a high-Torque base.
Because you don't actually know.... you side step the question with all this other bullshit not addressing what's been going on for the past few years, when quite literally it's not a problem of the game or all this other crap you mention about usb refresh rates.
it was a community driven problem being passed around by people coming up with settings allowing wheel bases to violently oscillate
BTW its the Force Effect Str setting if you're after ripping other peoples hands and wrists off... your calculations are wrong addressing the wrong settings.
Furthermore... it's consistently over 4Nm with the super formula vehicle ... 'just guessing' bullshit
Connect the base to a PC and open the Fanatec Driver Control Panel or FanaLab. You will see the mathematically and technically maximum possible Nm value shown there directly in the UI, also with a Mouse-hover Tool tip which explains which settings affect the FFB strength - it will show 3,9 Nm with your aforementioned settings.
And with that I think we can end this discussion. As said, if YOU are happy with these settings then that's totally fine. But you wouldn't need an expensive P DD1 for that kind of "strength"...
He knows a hell of a lot more about setting a wheel up, so why don't you check yourself at the door.
I mean, who do you think you are. You're the student telling the teacher, what the teacher has already mastered. You don't go into someone's house and run your mouth.
Here’s a good idea, let’s release another update and fix the issue that isn’t bothering anyone, and not fix the light steering on all other cars apart from GT3 cars
to everyone who thinks that because they’ve updated their wheels their steering is light, it’s not your wheel……. I’ve not updated my podium in ages, I’ve got no feeling on any cars except GT3
Comments
Even with the strength set to 10 in game and 100 on the base many people still report that the FFB is basically not existing and you can turn the wheel with one Finger. So they definitely changed something with the Torque range and their Intention surely was that you can now use the full in game strength range without clipping but Something must have gone massively wrong with the new update when the wheel is now super light even with strength fully maxed out.
Until they did not fixed their FFB I will not start this game ever again to uselessly spent my time on it.
The only time I enjoyed GT7 was in 1.15 with Maurice's preset. I hadn't touched it for over a year, but I got curious with the update.
With the AUTO preset it feels very soft in some cars/situations, but I don't notice clipping like before. Now I've tried using Maurice's 1.15 preset but with the 4-1 in-game configuration, and I don't see any clipping. It's not great, but you can feel where you're rolling and if you lose grip. I think that from that config you can get some interesting things. I'll leave it here in case you want to try it:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 50
NFR: 25
NIN: OFF
INT: 3
FEI: 90
FOR: 120
SPR: OFF
DPR: OFF
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 4
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1
PD: When I was on 1.15 I used dd pro, now I use dd+.
would be interesting to see if Maurice's recommendation of 10 -1 is now good again on the DD Pro
I had both the 8NM base and now the DD+ and I simply used the recommended settings for the 8NM one on the DD+ (base at 100%) game at 50% and even on the 1.49 update the game was pretty decent, did 90 minutes on the 25th to earn the cars ....and then like an idiot I flashed 457 cause I thought maybe extra features and now its literally as everyone says .... zero fbb you can blow the steering wheel to make a turn now ..... I don't think it was the update alone because otherwise everyone would be going nuts right now and I do not see large enough whinning about it ...... hope it gets resolved cause its a fun game
hi, have a podium dd1 base, with f1 v2.5 wheel…someone can help me with settings …the older are not working well with this 1.49 patch….
After a long weekend of installing, unistalling, flashing and nearly bricking the wheelbase here is what I have experienced (and it has been performing excellently for the lasr hour no issues and strong FFB) (DD+ gt2 bmw wheel, elite v2 pedals and fanatec shifter)
thursday update 1.49 came out .... I played for a couple of hours and enjoyed it on driver 455
friday morning i installed driver 457 (always fishing for more ) and it backfired ..... all of a sudden formula cars felt on air , same reports as many others ....... but I did not feel that prior to 457 ....
saturday , installing and unistalling I ended up locking up the wheelbase on "update mode" and it stayed there most of saturday ...
sunday ..... i tried something new , unistalled all drivers and installed 454 ..... works like a charm except i always have to unplug the usb or it feezes, so I upgraded to 455 and that issue was resolved ....
next it asked me to update firmware to the 2.0.104 or whatever the latest one is ..... and that one starts giving me issues ...... so
currently I run 455 with the firmware not updated and the wheelbase feels phenomenal .... formula cars on 8 TQ in game and 2 sensitivity with the wheelsbase set at 100 % feels solid and even knocked 3 sec off nordschleiffe from 5:36 to 5:33
I am not claiming anything, I am simply sharing my fiasco this weekend ...... have spent the last few hours optimizong the settings and it feels really good although I do have to now bring down TQ on some cars and up it on others .... between 5-8 in game is enough so obviously something is going on beyond just the GT7 side ........
Hello Maurice,
my base has been back from the RMA since yesterday and I was finally able to test it myself.
my in-game settings were 5/1, which felt really easy. Since it is assumed that 1-10 is the range up to 100%, I first set it to 8 and then to 10. I played around a bit with the sensitivity and ended up with 10/4. I tested with Gr.3 cars. I have to say that nothing feels easy, in terms of feeling I would say that nothing feels light at all. In terms of feel, I would say that it feels like the full 8nm of my base before the patch. I would even go further and say that I feel more details. I notice understeering and oversteering much better, so I can react better.
I've also started playing around with the settings on my DD Pro, but unfortunately I don't have enough experience. My current Settings:
SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FFS: PEAK
NDP: 30
NFR: OFF
NIN: OFF
INT: 3
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: 100
DPR: 100
GT7 in Game Settings:
Force Feedback Max Torque: 10
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 4
So here's my request again: I would really appreciate it if you would take another look at it.
I will NOT take a look at GT7 until they fixed the FFB for Road cars.
Gr.3 cars are not affected by the game bug, therefore it feels good for you as you only tested them.
Try the Super Formula cars or low downforce Road cars, they all have almost no FFB strength so it's useless to test this game in this state.
Anyone have any settings for the dd1 that work with gran turismo after the 1.49 update? Everything feels horrible no matter what now. I can get good feel in each group of car but it’s not consistent from group to group and I need to change settings for each group now. Absurd. If I get settings dialed for gr3, then gr1 is not possible to drive. My wheel uncontrollably shakes and vibrates side to side no matter what I do with settings. The only thing that fixes it is lowering the force feedback so much that you just can’t feel anything. Anything with more downforce than gr3 or gr4 just uncontrollably shakes and vibrates. Even gr3 does this in the straights but I can control it. Also, why is this only happening while going straight? Why on earth is my wheel going crazy side to side on a straight? This update ruined my entire experience now because it’s pretty much not drivable
How many times does Maurice have to tell you no, before you accept it as an answer.
We can only hope that someone with the knowledge that Maurice has on this topic, can help to make the best of it. I would really appreciate any recommendations from Fanatec to setup this officially licensed GT7 wheel instead of constantly mocking that GT7's feedback is broken and therefore refuse to provide any help or guidance. It isn't that bad after all. A bit disappointed about the Fanatec support...
You have A_S set up by the GT7 developer, what else do you need?
Check out GT planet. Pirovac has some good settings for it. GT7/DD extreme thread.
Since 1.49 update, these are my Settings with a Podium 1 base and the Playstation F1 wheel package. Also with the latest PUBLIC Drivers/Firmwares. Not Betas.
In Game Controller settings:
FFB Max Torque: 10
FFB Sensitivity: 10
WheelBase Settings:
FFB Str: 65
FF Scale: Peak
NDP: 20
NFR: 20
NIN: 5
FFB INT: 5
FEI: 100
Force Effect Str: 30
Spring Effect: OFF
Damper Effect: OFF
NOTES:
The in game Max Torque, FFB Str, NDP, NFR, NIN all seem to be in concert with one another. While outside of the 'sim environment' (any screen not allowing players do drive basically) the wheel has a recentering function. All of those settings in some combination allows you to 'critically dampen' the recentering. OR NOT if you don't want to.
The FFB INT allows the sensations in the wheel to not feel so 'peaky' and 'sharp' (within the sim environment)
The Force Effect Str: Allows to lower signal strength (amplitudes) while not compromising in game Max Torque and/or wheelbase FFB Str settings.
Cheers.
Still just 3,9 Nm Peaks on a DD1... Not really a good recommendation to others to limit such a high-powered base to such a Low strength which will also result in unavoidable clipping with such base settings combined with such in-game settings...
So what do you think should be adjusted if you think you know enough to critique NUMBERS... because I KNOW what setting EXACTLY to adjust for you to shut the hell up. ???
Please enlighten me as to what you think settings should be adjusted???
FYI: I can get the wheel to peak over 5 Nm so how ever you derived your 3.9 Nm Peak is completely wrong.
On top of that... I can park the cars and let go of the wheel and it not violently oscillate for no apparent reason... which is more than I can say for what's been shown on youtube for the past 6 years with these direct drive wheels from Fanatec. so please... like i said... shut the hell up...
because steering wheels when cars parked DO NOT VIOLENTLY OSCILLATE
Of course you do not get oscillations with such low FFB strenfth (which are btw a game issue of GT7 and console limitation with the USB refresh rate) which are not happening on other games on PC even with higher FFB settings.
Real cars also require more than just 3,9 Nm steering Torque ...😅
The Nm shown in the P DD OLED is just a rough guess and not a "real" calculated or measured and accurate value, the base doesn't have a torquemeter built in or something like that. It's pure guessing what Nm value the base could possibly output at this very moment based on current settings and game signal. Thing is that you try to compensate the low FFB strength allowed by the motor with a high in-game strength setting of 10 which just results in unavoidable clipping. Therefore the OLED shows "wrong" and too high values which are technically not possible to achieve anymore.
Mathematically correct however is that you Limit your P DD1 with these settings to just 3,9 Nm (20Nm x 65% x 30% = 3,9Nm).
For such low FFB strength people can save 1k and just go with a CSL DD 5Nm Base and they would have the exact same experience so these settings shouldnt be recommended to anyone who really wants to get the best out of their quite expensive base.
But hey, if YOU are happy with these settings then that's totally fine. It just isnt something to try by others as they very likely wouldn't like it when they had spent quite a lot of money for a high-Torque base.
Because you don't actually know.... you side step the question with all this other bullshit not addressing what's been going on for the past few years, when quite literally it's not a problem of the game or all this other crap you mention about usb refresh rates.
it was a community driven problem being passed around by people coming up with settings allowing wheel bases to violently oscillate
BTW its the Force Effect Str setting if you're after ripping other peoples hands and wrists off... your calculations are wrong addressing the wrong settings.
Furthermore... it's consistently over 4Nm with the super formula vehicle ... 'just guessing' bullshit
'dynamometer'
just to be clear... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamometer
this probably be a good channel for you https://www.youtube.com/@TorqueTestChannel
Connect the base to a PC and open the Fanatec Driver Control Panel or FanaLab. You will see the mathematically and technically maximum possible Nm value shown there directly in the UI, also with a Mouse-hover Tool tip which explains which settings affect the FFB strength - it will show 3,9 Nm with your aforementioned settings.
And with that I think we can end this discussion. As said, if YOU are happy with these settings then that's totally fine. But you wouldn't need an expensive P DD1 for that kind of "strength"...
And you'd still be wrong.
K.
He knows a hell of a lot more about setting a wheel up, so why don't you check yourself at the door.
I mean, who do you think you are. You're the student telling the teacher, what the teacher has already mastered. You don't go into someone's house and run your mouth.
Here’s a good idea, let’s release another update and fix the issue that isn’t bothering anyone, and not fix the light steering on all other cars apart from GT3 cars
to everyone who thinks that because they’ve updated their wheels their steering is light, it’s not your wheel……. I’ve not updated my podium in ages, I’ve got no feeling on any cars except GT3
this week I’ll mostly be on Suzuka or ACC 🤦♂️
It's been a few weeks since the last update. Does anyone have any good settings for the DD Pro 8nm?
Morning everyone.
Does anyone have some recommended settings specifically for the GT DD Pro 8nm Firmware 455?
Everyone seems to be focused on the DD+ or Podium.
I thank you in advance.