CSL ELITE AND BMW GT3 RIM NOT WORKING ANYMORE

Maciej BugnoMaciej Bugno Member
edited March 2020 in Wheel Bases (and Racing Wheels)

Hi

So my base and rim did 3k hours and i had to replace belt - used GT type not the GT3 and 15 mm wide

After a week of driving - when i was in full turn it died on me and never came back

I decided to check the cables with the pins and when i cut the heat shrink i could already see a shabby soldering and blob of hot glue - very shabby job. When trying to get that glue of everything came apart

So i had to find a layout - i found some pictures and i resoldered the cables but still no sign of life

I even switched layout of 2 cables i wasnt sure but still nothing no live

Fanaetec offered me a replacement but since my old cable does not work it wouldnt help at all

I had all but troubles with this base - starting from a micro fuse that caused people to send it for repair - it happened to my one under previous owner and happened again after i got it

I soldered automotive fuse holder directly to the board - no more problems

When i turn it on in windows it displays a no entry sign like the wheel is not being seen at all by base

The next thing after Fanatec is Simucube2

Btw Fanatec support in Germany have problems with understanding written english so the ask u for films - xd - lack of imagination


The wheel is 3k hours and less then 4 years old - perfect mechanical state but electronics failed


NO MORE FANATEC BASES AND RIMS FOR NOW THEIR ONLY GOOD PRODUCT ARE PEDALS -2.5 version

Comments

  • Maciej BugnoMaciej Bugno Member
    edited March 2020

    I had a Porsche 911 Fanatec wheel - the old one that was relesed like 10 years ago or more

    That thing had no problem for a decade and what killed it was the crack in the back of the body where paddles were made

    Essentially the paddle was made by cutting it in the body so it cracked on the hinge after so many gear changes

    It also killed microfuse too but i was torturing it at 200% gain all the time not like CSL and it still worked

  • Maciej BugnoMaciej Bugno Member

    SO IT SEEMS LIKE I FOUND THE ISSUE - NOW I ONLY NEED TO WAIT FOR RIBBON CABLE TO HAVE THE d-PAD WORKING. WITHOUT IT I CANT CALIBRATE THE WHEEL. THE RIM MAIN CABLE WAS RE SOLDERED AND SECURED WITH EPOXY FOR ETERNITY.

    I MIGHT CONSIDER REPLACING CABLE FROM THE BOARD TO THE FEMALE SOCKET AS THIS ONE IS TIRED BUT I WILL WAIT FOR NOW TO SEE HOW IT PERFORMS.

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