Antoine LOL... I was Reading the PDF Thinking the Samenthing!!! I dont think that we will benadjusting Most of those settings with a V2 wheel... Buy Some one using a Gt2 , Logitec or Older wheel May Have to.
Perhaps this can help, I'm going to try later today:
Edit: The following phrase is from the original post.
Guys.. you are giving very weird advice here. You really don't seem to understand how the game works.
It's not simple but this is how to get a "heavier" wheel if that's your issue. The key is the Relative Gain values. Unless you have a direct drive wheel, use Relative Gain!
Btw. the FFB has not changed since almost a year. It is the same straight from physics FFB that has been there forever. The built in parameters for these have not changed either since a long time so any changes you "feel" are due to physics or mainly car setup tweaks.
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48 Fy = 44 Fz = 54 Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
Ive been playing project cars on ps4 for 3hours and had no issues. Then suddenly during a race, my csw v2 just turned off! Now every time i try to race it happens immediately. I'm deeply concerned it's going to do damage to the base, anyone else had such probleproblems?
I have a Fanatec Porsche 911 GT2 Porsche wheel and there are big issues with the ps4 version of the game.
I could try the difference of the wheel support on both version of the game and the ps4 support is very bad.
The wheel in the PS4 version is recognized as Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo but beyond this slighty error the wheel appear to works as a gamepad; we haven't the calibration option and FF option as in Pc version; in the command assignement menu pedal and wheel are recognized as "stick".
The ps4 game does not automatically adjust degree of the wheel steering lock and you have to change manually through the wheel tuning setup (SEN) every time you change cars tipology (PC version of the game once you have calibrated the wheel with maximum degree (900°) automatically adjust it car to car).
Moreover there is a big dead zone in the center of wheel that can not be eliminated any menu or/and wheel option you try to change.
Following photos of ps4 and PC menus to show how different the wheel is recognized and how buggy fanatec support on PS4 seems to be.
Pc Version with calibration andd FF menu
PS4 Version without advanced menu for wheel
Pc version: wheel and pedals are recognized as axes
PS4 version: wheel and pedal are recognized as gamepad stick ("levette")
Some notes to add:
I have reinstalled the last firmware on the wheel (752 as in signature), I start the game by pressing "X" on the wheel in PC mode, PS4 is update with last firmware.
I think developers should be informed about these problems because every Fanatec user (I navigated many forum around the world to check) has issues with their wheel on PS4 so I ask to point out the thread in some way.
Moreover last night I had 5 game crash while I play with Fanatec GT2. I had crash both online and in single player.
Game stopped responding but PS4 still worked and I could stop the application and go in dashboard.
After these crasches I tried with pad and I had no problems.
For every crash PS4 reports error CE-34878-0 caused by Project Cars application.
I just did few test that dimostrate that Fanatec Porsche GT2 ( and looking around all Fanatec 911 wheel) support for PS4 is only buggy.
I forcedly install CSR firmware on my GT2; in this way the wheel in game is recognized as Fanatec CSR and all wheel and FF menu are accessible so you can calibrate wheel and pedals and properly configure FF.
I made a quick test and dead zone seems gone, unfortuantely all buttons are wrong mapped and you can use GT2 in this way because the clutch in game is always engaged.
Anyway this test shows that Fanatec wheel support in game should well done if it works correctly.
I make GT2 works with Project Cars on PS4, as it should, but It continues to crasch the game (error CE-34878-0) as with the original firmware.
Following history of test
These are files of GT2 last firmware (rev.756): GT2_754B.pw1 GT2_Base_756.pw2 ERASE.pw3
These are CSR last firmware files(rev.756): CSR_756B.pw1 CSR_756B.pw2 ERASE.pw3
You could note a light difference in pw1 version between GT2 and CSR firmware I just forced the CSR pw1 firmware files install in GT2 so It is recongized from game as CSR but have the buttons configured as GT2. In this way I can use (except for the clutch bug of the CSR (you have to assign it to a button)) my Frankestein GT2 in Project Cars PS4 version. It is recongized as a wheel with all configuration and FF menus enable. The wheel works fine but random the game crash with error CE-34878-0
Then I mapped the buttons in a way I could use the whell with both files of CSR firmware; i reflash my GT2 with following files: CSR_756B.pw1 CSR_756B.pw2 ERASE.pw3 (CSR File) Because I before mapped the clutch on button now I can use GT2 (masked as a CSR). The wheel works fine but again random I have error CE-34878-0 with crash of the game
Finally I re-flash the GT2 with its original firmware: GT2_754B.pw1 GT2_Base_756.pw2 ERASE.pw3 (Gt2 version)
The wheel is recognized as a gamepad, I have no wheel calibration menu and no FF calibration menu Also with original firmware Fanatec GT2 wheel makes Project Cars crashes with CE-34878-0 error.
I hope this information could be usefull to developers and Fanatec to resolve issues with GT2 wheels.
On the PCars forum, Remco van Dijk supermoderator, and moderator here, said dev teamS come together this week to come with solutions. So a patch is near...
Does anyone know..how the settings on the WHEEL have to be set to get the value of 900 in the calibration screen?
With CSR I calibrate wheel, first rotate all the way left / right so I get the 100, next rotate to the left until the 900 appears (about 90º rotation).
If you cannot get 100 disable SPR = Off, I read somewhere on project cars forum to never calibrate a wheel with Spr = on on the CSW v2, I used that method with CSR and previous 99 is now 100.
Edit: CSR users don't calibrate pedals or you will loose the L2/R2 buttons functions.
Isn't same problem Chris. I do get 100 rotation...but whatever 'wheel' rotation settings I use...I never get 900 at 90°. And where else do we post these things Chris...This is still a blog, Thomas creates the topics!!! Not a forum!!
Isn't same problem Chris. I do get 100 rotation...but whatever 'wheel' rotation settings I use...I never get 900 at 90°. And where else do we post these things Chris...This is still a blog, Thomas creates the topics!!! Not a forum!!
Isn't same problem Chris. I do get 100 rotation...but whatever 'wheel' rotation settings I use...I never get 900 at 90°. And where else do we post these things Chris...This is still a blog, Thomas creates the topics!!! Not a forum!!
Sorry Antoine I wasn't saying to not post. I was just letting you know someone else might be having the same issue. I didn't know if you were aware of her post as that topic has gotten very long with tons of arguing. It wasn't my intention to imply that you shouldn't post about your issue.
Since your issue is different I'm not sure how to help you. Sorry
They Have to come up with a Better/Easyer way for FFB Settings...Most of the Settings are Supposed to be Hidden behind a Slider Scale that you Move up or down to increase or Decrease Forces... I Have No Clue why they Made it like this!!! But its Not good and Has to be Done for Every Car and Every Track unless you do the Save to All Option.
They Had Sooo Many Settings with Damper to 100 thats why the FFB felt Heavy and Muted.. they were there but they were all being Negated by all the High Damper Settings... Basicaly you have to go through the Settings andnTurn every thing that says Damper to 0 then tweek .
I find that the Most important Settings for wheel users are Lateral and Seat of SOP(seat of pants). Thats what Give the Road Feel and Weight Transfer feeling... I also turned up the Verticle settings to try and Give more Curb Feel.
Pay Attention to the Master Scale Adjustment Setting you cant set that too High because you will Get FFB Clipping if its set too High. the Settings that are Ruled by that Master Scale you can Turn Up/Down to desired Level to Magnify/Reduce that particular FFB effect .
Basicaly there are Settings within Settings. IE: Master Scale 50 =total output for all Settings within a Group Verticle 100 curb Feel Lateral 65 weight Transfer Even though the 2 Settings are Higher than the Master Scale Value the Settings are just Magnified within the Master Scale to Magnify/Reduce the FFB so you can Set it to your Particular taste... ETC
This isnthe Biggest Reason i like Console i Dont like wasting a Whole Day Tweeking Settings!!! and I Still Have More Tweeking to Do... Uuugh... I Like Plug and Play!
Antoine i calibrated My V2 and i get 900 at 90° you have to turn till you see 900 the Hold wheel steady and oress the X button. its Tricky you have to be very Steady Handed.
What Numbers are you Getting??? What you see as 90° with your eye maybe Diff from what your wheel Recognizes as 90°. I would just set it according to what the wheel and Game See as 90° and leave it there.
PS4 PCars FFB is Crap Right Now... I Can Get it to Feel Good... Curb Feel and Road Feel But the Wheel Feels Sooo Dam Heavy and Nothing you Can Do to Lighten it up!!! I Have Good Settings but the Wheel Feels So Heavy the Game is Not Enjoyable... I Spent 12hrs in 2 days just Tweeking FFB Settings and Still its Not Right... I Have Not Even Run a Single Race.... Im goin Back to GT6!!! Hopefully F1 2014 will be Better Next Month... I Cant Believe we Waited 3+yrs for Them to Put out Such Garbage!!! They Better Fix Pcars Soon ...Dont bother Buying it until the do something!!!
Cheers Grimey. That's incredibly disappointing. I don't have the space or the interest in PC sims any more, so I was really banking on Project Cars on PS4 being JUST as good as Project Cars on the PC.
Of course I'm taling about teh FFB with the Fanatec Wheel. I don't care about graphics, etc.
So is that it then? Project Cars on the PS4 has poor feedback with the Fanatec Wheels?
Cheers Grimey. That's incredibly disappointing. I don't have the space or the interest in PC sims any more, so I was really banking on Project Cars on PS4 being JUST as good as Project Cars on the PC.
Of course I'm taling about teh FFB with the Fanatec Wheel. I don't care about graphics, etc.
So is that it then? Project Cars on the PS4 has poor feedback with the Fanatec Wheels?
Will anything be don?
The Pcars devs are aware of the problems and are working on fixes. (If I understood correctly) I also want it for either Xbox1 or PS4. But I'm planning on not buying any game at launch anymore. (unless something just completely wows me) This is a prime example as to why. This game has been in development for almost 3 years. And then at the end was delayed 3x. They knew of these issues IMO. I believe that we-the paying gamer-are now used as the final beta testers. And why not. We complain about games being crappy at launch and then go out and preorder every new title. Until the preorders slow down this practice won't stop.
Yeah exactly right Chris. They can do what they want really.
That said, there are a ton of bugs but I'm still loving the game. It plays surprisingly well with the crappy Dual Shock 4 controller, and the potential is huge.
No doubt given how many stakeholders there have been with Project Cars from the start, they will continue to invest in improving the game.
Do you have a link saying they're aware of the Fanatec wheel drivers and will be fixing them?
I owned most of them but have since sold them off and purchased a CSW V2.
It's just mine isn't working and I have been waiting nearly 3 weeks for action from their tech department. I only signed in here to see if anyone was having problems with their V2s or concerns about slow tech support and saw this post about PCars.
If only I would've held on to my CSR Elite I could be enjoying the game instead of sitting and waiting that one day my problem might actually get resolved.
I owned most of them but have since sold them off and purchased a CSW V2.
It's just mine isn't working and I have been waiting nearly 3 weeks for action from their tech department. I only signed in here to see if anyone was having problems with their V2s or concerns about slow tech support and saw this post about PCars.
If only I would've held on to my CSR Elite I could be enjoying the game instead of sitting and waiting that one day my problem might actually get resolved.
Oh, sorry to hear that. What's the issue with your CSWv2?
Flag It only Took Three Days of Sitting infront of My PC with the PS4 and PCars PDF.. Which by the way the Settings are Labled Totaly Different than what they are Named on the PS4 . The Problem is Most of the Settings in PCars Just Dont Work or they are Just Redundent and Every Setting Cancels out another Setting!!!
16hrs of Tweeking But I Finaly Have Good Wheel Settings For PS4 PCars!!!
This is Done in the Controler Menu where you Calibrate the Wheel Pedals.and FFB.
Tire Force 100 Linkage Stiffness 100 Everything Else is 0 or Just Off!!! Some settings will only go to .01 Just Trust Me on this Try It.
This is Done in the Tune your Car Menu or Garrage where you tune individual Car FFB.
Master Spindal 30 to 36 depending on Car FX 0.01 FY 60.00 FZ 60.00 MZ 60.00
ALL Smoothin OFF!!! ALL Damping OFF!!!
Body Scale 0.01 Body Stiffness 0.01 Body Damping 0.01
Antoine i calibrated My V2 and i get 900 at 90° you have to turn till you see 900 the Hold wheel steady and oress the X button. its Tricky you have to be very Steady Handed.
What Numbers are you Getting??? What you see as 90° with your eye maybe Diff from what your wheel Recognizes as 90°. I would just set it according to what the wheel and Game See as 90° and leave it there.
At what Sens is your wheel settings Grimey to achieve 900?
Flag It only Took Three Days of Sitting infront of My PC with the PS4 and PCars PDF.. Which by the way the Settings are Labled Totaly Different than what they are Named on the PS4 . The Problem is Most of the Settings in PCars Just Dont Work or they are Just Redundent and Every Setting Cancels out another Setting!!!
16hrs of Tweeking But I Finaly Have Good Wheel Settings For PS4 PCars!!!
This is Done in the Controler Menu where you Calibrate the Wheel Pedals.and FFB.
Tire Force 100 Linkage Stiffness 100 Everything Else is 0 or Just Off!!! Some settings will only go to .01 Just Trust Me on this Try It.
This is Done in the Tune your Car Menu or Garrage where you tune individual Car FFB.
Master Spindal 30 to 36 depending on Car FX 0.01 FY 60.00 FZ 60.00 MZ 60.00
ALL Smoothin OFF!!! ALL Damping OFF!!!
Body Scale 0.01 Body Stiffness 0.01 Body Damping 0.01
Antoine i had my wheel sens set to Off... You gotta use a Tad Bit of Muscle.... When it Stops you are at the wheel Bump stop but you can get Maybe 1/4in more turn outta the wheel...... Does the Bar show your wheel at 100% turning?
Comments
You'll just let me know what your settings are when you've got the V2 back...
It's not simple but this is how to get a "heavier" wheel if that's your issue. The key is the Relative Gain values. Unless you have a direct drive wheel, use Relative Gain!
Btw. the FFB has not changed since almost a year. It is the same straight from physics FFB that has been there forever. The built in parameters for these have not changed either since a long time so any changes you "feel" are due to physics or mainly car setup tweaks.
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
Ive been playing project cars on ps4 for 3hours and had no issues. Then suddenly during a race, my csw v2 just turned off! Now every time i try to race it happens immediately. I'm deeply concerned it's going to do damage to the base, anyone else had such probleproblems?
Following history of test
These are files of GT2 last firmware (rev.756):
GT2_754B.pw1
GT2_Base_756.pw2
ERASE.pw3
These are CSR last firmware files(rev.756):
CSR_756B.pw1
CSR_756B.pw2
ERASE.pw3
You could note a light difference in pw1 version between GT2 and CSR firmware
I just forced the CSR pw1 firmware files install in GT2 so It is recongized from game as CSR but have the buttons configured as GT2.
In this way I can use (except for the clutch bug of the CSR (you have to assign it to a button)) my Frankestein GT2 in Project Cars PS4 version.
It is recongized as a wheel with all configuration and FF menus enable.
The wheel works fine but random the game crash with error CE-34878-0
Then I mapped the buttons in a way I could use the whell with both files of CSR firmware; i reflash my GT2 with following files:
CSR_756B.pw1
CSR_756B.pw2
ERASE.pw3 (CSR File)
Because I before mapped the clutch on button now I can use GT2 (masked as a CSR).
The wheel works fine but again random I have error CE-34878-0 with crash of the game
Finally I re-flash the GT2 with its original firmware:
GT2_754B.pw1
GT2_Base_756.pw2
ERASE.pw3 (Gt2 version)
The wheel is recognized as a gamepad, I have no wheel calibration menu and no FF calibration menu
Also with original firmware Fanatec GT2 wheel makes Project Cars crashes with CE-34878-0 error.
I hope this information could be usefull to developers and Fanatec to resolve issues with GT2 wheels.
And where else do we post these things Chris...This is still a blog, Thomas creates the topics!!! Not a forum!!
Since your issue is different I'm not sure how to help you. Sorry
They Have to come up with a Better/Easyer way for FFB Settings...Most of the Settings are
Supposed to be Hidden behind a Slider Scale that you Move up or down to increase or Decrease Forces... I Have No Clue why they Made it like this!!! But its Not good and Has to be Done for Every Car and Every Track unless you do the Save to All Option.
They Had Sooo Many Settings with Damper to 100 thats why the FFB felt Heavy and Muted.. they were there but they were all being Negated by all the High Damper Settings... Basicaly you have to go through the Settings andnTurn every thing that says Damper to 0 then tweek .
I find that the Most important Settings for wheel users are Lateral and Seat of SOP(seat of pants). Thats what Give the Road Feel and Weight Transfer feeling... I also turned up the Verticle settings to try and Give more Curb Feel.
Pay Attention to the Master Scale Adjustment Setting you cant set that too High because you will Get FFB Clipping if its set too High. the Settings that are Ruled by that Master Scale you can Turn Up/Down to desired Level to Magnify/Reduce that particular FFB effect .
Basicaly there are Settings within Settings.
IE: Master Scale 50 =total output for all Settings within a Group
Verticle 100 curb Feel
Lateral 65 weight Transfer
Even though the 2 Settings are Higher than the Master Scale Value the Settings are just Magnified within the Master Scale to Magnify/Reduce the FFB so you can Set it to your Particular taste... ETC
This isnthe Biggest Reason i like Console i Dont like wasting a Whole Day Tweeking Settings!!! and I Still Have More Tweeking to Do... Uuugh... I Like Plug and Play!
Theres Gotta be a Easier Way!!!
What Numbers are you Getting???
What you see as 90° with your eye maybe Diff from what your wheel Recognizes as 90°.
I would just set it according to what the wheel and Game See as 90° and leave it there.
PC & PLAYSTATION®4
Porsche 911 Turbo S
Porsche 911 GT2
Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2
CSR
CSR Elite
Oh, sorry to hear that. What's the issue with your CSWv2?
It only Took Three Days of Sitting infront of My PC with the PS4 and PCars PDF.. Which by the way the Settings are Labled Totaly Different than what they are Named on the PS4 .
The Problem is Most of the Settings in PCars Just Dont Work or they are Just Redundent and Every Setting Cancels out another Setting!!!
16hrs of Tweeking But I Finaly Have Good Wheel Settings For PS4 PCars!!!
This is Done in the Controler Menu where you Calibrate the Wheel Pedals.and FFB.
Tire Force 100
Linkage Stiffness 100
Everything Else is 0 or Just Off!!! Some settings will only go to .01
Just Trust Me on this Try It.
This is Done in the Tune your Car Menu or Garrage where you tune individual Car FFB.
Master Spindal 30 to 36 depending on Car
FX 0.01
FY 60.00
FZ 60.00
MZ 60.00
ALL Smoothin OFF!!!
ALL Damping OFF!!!
Body Scale 0.01
Body Stiffness 0.01
Body Damping 0.01
SOP Scale 40.0
SOP Lat 50.0
SOP DIFF 50.0
SOP Damp O.O
I Set My FFB on my V2 at 75 to 85% Depending on Car in Driving... Start with 75% and work your way up.
So Far this Feels.Great on the Ruff RGT-8GT3 and the Clio.
Test it out let me Know.what you think... Im Not Sure if theae will work on XB1.