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Not sure what it was but at the time the DD1 DD2 got the fix whereas the CSL DD didn't,possibly the NFR but deffo not FFB cancelling.
May even be so far back that the fix was already implemented?
Possibly related to FFB but not about the cancelling.
The known NFR issues and the known issue that FFB is not canceled in some game menus for CSL DD / GT DD wont be fixed with the next Firmware included in Driver 448, no.
As said, thats high on the prio list for next year.
Hi all! Please excuse me if what I am about to say is already discusssed somewhere, I could not find it, but maybe I'm not that great as searching for it...
I have a CSL DD base + mclaren V2 wheel using the latest drivers. The issue is that I feel a bit of play into the axel of the base that seems to come from inside the base itself. What I mean is that if I am in a game and just turn the wheel from left to right and back, there is maybe like 3-5 degrees of play that is sensible for the FFB. It feels like I fisrt turn the wheel but the axel stays put, and only after 3-5 degrees, the axel itself starts turning. When chaning the direction of the turn, the same is true. It does not seem to be related to the game as I have the same feeling by simply turning up dampening and friction.
Does any of this ring any bell to anyone? I assume it's either a faulty base unit or some software issue.
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Hi all! Please excuse me if what I am about to say is already discusssed somewhere, I could not find it, but maybe I'm not that great as searching for it...
I have a CSL DD base + mclaren V2 wheel using the latest drivers. The issue is that I feel a bit of play into the axel of the base that seems to come from inside the base itself. What I mean is that if I am in a game and just turn the wheel from left to right and back, there is maybe like 3-5 degrees of play that is sensible for the FFB. It feels like I fisrt turn the wheel but the axel stays put, and only after 3-5 degrees, the axel itself starts turning. When chaning the direction of the turn, the same is true. It does not seem to be related to the game as I have the same feeling by simply turning up dampening and friction.
Does any of this ring any bell to anyone? I assume it's either a faulty base unit or some software issue.
Thats a hardware issue, not a software issue.
Its caused by too much play of the Base shaft QR and the Wheel Side QR.
You can put some tape on the base shaft to eliminate the play.
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Its caused by too much play of the Base shaft QR and the Wheel Side QR.
You can put some tape on the base shaft to eliminate the play.
just to clarify that we are talking about the same issue, I am not talking about play/flex when I keep the wheel stright and just force a left-right motion parralel to the axle (front-back). The axle itself feels pretty tight from this perspective.
It's only when actually turning the wheel that this play is noticeble, as if the FFB would have some "delay" before it kicks in. So if there is no friction FFB turned up, this play is not noticeble.
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Hello, I have a question for fanalab. I try to disable the rev vibration limit for the throttle pedal but even when I turn it off it keeps vibrating in game. Do anyone knows something about that? Thanks!
Maybe vibration from the game is still active? A screenshot of the settings would help and mentioning which game we are talking about. But please into the correct FanaLab channel and not here.
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just to clarify that we are talking about the same issue, I am not talking about play/flex when I keep the wheel stright and just force a left-right motion parralel to the axle (front-back). The axle itself feels pretty tight from this perspective.
It's only when actually turning the wheel that this play is noticeble, as if the FFB would have some "delay" before it kicks in. So if there is no friction FFB turned up, this play is not noticeble.
Is the tape going to adress this?
For a test you can put NFR and NDP both to 100% and then quickly turn the wheel left and right. If you feel play its probably coming from the Quick Release. Then the tip of Maurice might help but it might also mean that you have a QR which is out of spec in which it would make sense to contact support, in case you have a QR which is not right, they could send you a replacement.
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For a test you can put NFR and NDP both to 100% and then quickly turn the wheel left and right. If you feel play its probably coming from the Quick Release. Then the tip of Maurice might help but it might also mean that you have a QR which is out of spec in which it would make sense to contact support, in case you have a QR which is not right, they could send you a replacement.
tried it and indeed there is play, thanks for the reply!
Also, point taken, will stop further posting here. Cheers!
after a few days of break I wanted to drive a bit but may whealbase is shuting down when I connect a wheel (xbox hub) or swites too wheel upgrade mode (podium hub or formula clubsport)
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after a few days of break I wanted to drive a bit but may whealbase is shuting down when I connect a wheel (xbox hub) or swites too wheel upgrade mode (podium hub or formula clubsport)
I did zero changes from time I used it last month
Which base are we talking about?
You are already using driver 447 since a while?
If it started to happen out of nowhere and not after a firmware update, then it's likely caused by the hardware and not the software.
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i have updated from driver 429 to 447 (DD1 + McLarenFirmware) yesterday and wasnt satisfied.
Wanted to go back to 429, made it correctly over the new downgrade menu in firmware tab. So far so good, but after downgrade it seems, that the base (with the older firmware) wont recognize the McLarenWheel correctly with the new firmware.
It is recognized, but no button or shifter is working. I think downgrading wheel firmware isnt possible?
Why im not satisfied with 447?
The new firmare + driver feels different in ACC, seems like i have more road noise / details from track with the Fanatec settings i used with 429, i dont know how to describe, feels al little more grainy. This isnt sooo bad, but it has more tendency to oscillat on straights with the new firmware, that was not in driver 429 with the old firmware. As long as i put one hand on the wheel it wont osscilate, i know that you should never put away both hands, but that wasnt so in 429, is that explainable with the new driver 447/ firmware?
I tried more NDP up to 20 and more NFR, but it cant compensate the tendency for more oscillations.
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i have updated from driver 429 to 447 (DD1 + McLarenFirmware) yesterday and wasnt satisfied.
Wanted to go back to 429, made it correctly over the new downgrade menu in firmware tab. So far so good, but after downgrade it seems, that the base (with the older firmware) wont recognize the McLarenWheel correctly with the new firmware.
It is recognized, but no button or shifter is working. I think downgrading wheel firmware isnt possible?
Why im not satisfied with 447?
The new firmare + driver feels different in ACC, seems like i have more road noise / details from track with the Fanatec settings i used with 429, i dont know how to describe, feels al little more grainy. This isnt sooo bad, but it has more tendency to oscillat on straights with the new firmware, that was not in driver 429 with the old firmware. As long as i put one hand on the wheel it wont osscilate, i know that you should never put away both hands, but that wasnt so in 429, is that explainable with the new driver 447/ firmware?
I tried more NDP up to 20 and more NFR, but it cant compensate the tendency for more oscillations.
SEN 1080
FF 58
FFS Peak
NDP 7
NFR 2
NIN 3
INT 2
FEI 90
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
These where my settings with driver 429.
Downgrading the steering wheel firmware is possibly by installling the older driver again and then flashing the steering wheel firmware manually.
What if you try a nigher INT of 5 for example and put FEI to 100? FEI can create oscillations because it adds latency, more than INT does.
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I have a question about my newly bought clubsport v3 pedals . My problem is to make them usable together with my historic Fanatev Porsche GT3RS v2 Wheel . Both 447 and 443 tested and not working . Any ideas ?
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I have a question about my newly bought clubsport v3 pedals . My problem is to make them usable together with my historic Fanatev Porsche GT3RS v2 Wheel . Both 447 and 443 tested and not working . Any ideas ?
New drivers are not (officially) supported - which doesnt mean that they dont work, they actually CAN work but are untested. So you will need to try out some more drivers by yourself to find the most recent one which works with your historic gear.
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WHY was the first thing you did after the base powered-on was to press the power button for 8 seconds?
You are NOT supposed to do that! That's only an emergency scenario to use when the base appears to be bricked (eg after a failed regular firmware update)! It is NOT to regulary update the FW!
And it seems to be not the case that the base seemed bricked as it seems the base was properly working before you did this.
When the base is on an older firmware and you do this 8 second boot to flash the base, then exactly that happens what you experienced now: the base flashes new FW which cant communicate with the old Motor FW because the Motor would need to be flashed first but the 8 second bootloader boot only flashes the Base.
I can understand that you are disappointed but I am sorry but actually you must be disappointed of yourself...
Now to get the base rescued yes, downgrade the driver back to 439 and then you are allowed to do the 8 second bootloader flash to flash back FW v690 to the base which can communicate again with Motor v42.
And when then updating again to 447 then do NOT use the 8 second bootloader boot but just open the Driver and Firmware Manager and click the green automatic update button which will then flash everything in the correct order for you.
Bonjour, comment faire pour rétrograder un pilote ? Merci.
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Bonjour, comment faire pour rétrograder un pilote ? Merci.
I, and many others, dont understand French so please post in English according to the forum rules.
How to downgrade a driver is described in the official Driver and firmware manual which is included with every download.
It is not recommended to do so if you dont have any serious issue. Also for Podium DD you MUST use the downgrade feature, implemented in 447, before downgrading to an older driver.
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I, and many others, dont understand French so please post in English according to the forum rules.
How to downgrade a driver is described in the official Driver and firmware manual which is included with every download.
It is not recommended to do so if you dont have any serious issue. Also for Podium DD you MUST use the downgrade feature, implemented in 447, before downgrading to an older driver.
Hello, sorry for the French, that's my problem.
I received my racing wheel f1 podium, a month ago, I played nickel. I wanted to update with driver 447, impossible to finalize, my fan runs at full speed and after a calibration request, I can no longer do anything and my pc does not detect any device.
I contacted support, they told me:
Reset my devices
Install driver 439
And normally everything works except that I'm always the same, the fan is always full and I still can't play. No device detects by my pc.
I attach the photos of the result obtained.
Si quelqu'un a des informations sur le sujet, je suis preneur , I am waiting for the response from support. Thank you.
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I received my racing wheel f1 podium, a month ago, I played nickel. I wanted to update with driver 447, impossible to finalize, my fan runs at full speed and after a calibration request, I can no longer do anything and my pc does not detect any device.
I contacted support, they told me:
Reset my devices
Install driver 439
And normally everything works except that I'm always the same, the fan is always full and I still can't play. No device detects by my pc.
I attach the photos of the result obtained.
Si quelqu'un a des informations sur le sujet, je suis preneur , I am waiting for the response from support. Thank you.
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I have an issue; I bought the Podium DD1 F1 back in November, i have updated to the latest available software, but when i drive in GT7, every 5-10 re-entries to the track, the FF changes to a higher value than what it was.
Im not at home atm but my FF is 45 on the wheel, with recommended fanatec settings ingame(5 and 1 if not mistaken), and the FF-strength is set to 80, and some other adjustments, but i dont think they cause this issue.
When im driving, the FF is fine, and no issues while driving. But when i go back in to the menus where you can change car etc. and re-enter the track, the FF settings will be 10-20% higher than what the original settings are. This is fixed with doing the same procedure by exiting out to the menus and back again, this was not an issue with my old DD Pro, so im curious if this is a software issue on fanatecs part or an issue that is caused by GT7.
Comments
Regarding the known issues of NFR and FFB not canceled in some game menus? No. That's high on the Prio list for next year.
Not sure what it was but at the time the DD1 DD2 got the fix whereas the CSL DD didn't,possibly the NFR but deffo not FFB cancelling.
May even be so far back that the fix was already implemented?
Possibly related to FFB but not about the cancelling.
The known NFR issues and the known issue that FFB is not canceled in some game menus for CSL DD / GT DD wont be fixed with the next Firmware included in Driver 448, no.
As said, thats high on the prio list for next year.
Hi all! Please excuse me if what I am about to say is already discusssed somewhere, I could not find it, but maybe I'm not that great as searching for it...
I have a CSL DD base + mclaren V2 wheel using the latest drivers. The issue is that I feel a bit of play into the axel of the base that seems to come from inside the base itself. What I mean is that if I am in a game and just turn the wheel from left to right and back, there is maybe like 3-5 degrees of play that is sensible for the FFB. It feels like I fisrt turn the wheel but the axel stays put, and only after 3-5 degrees, the axel itself starts turning. When chaning the direction of the turn, the same is true. It does not seem to be related to the game as I have the same feeling by simply turning up dampening and friction.
Does any of this ring any bell to anyone? I assume it's either a faulty base unit or some software issue.
Thats a hardware issue, not a software issue.
Its caused by too much play of the Base shaft QR and the Wheel Side QR.
You can put some tape on the base shaft to eliminate the play.
just to clarify that we are talking about the same issue, I am not talking about play/flex when I keep the wheel stright and just force a left-right motion parralel to the axle (front-back). The axle itself feels pretty tight from this perspective.
It's only when actually turning the wheel that this play is noticeble, as if the FFB would have some "delay" before it kicks in. So if there is no friction FFB turned up, this play is not noticeble.
Is the tape going to adress this?
That question belongs into the FanaLab forum section, please next time ask the question there: https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/26456/fanalab-1-66-post-your-feedback-here#latest
Maybe vibration from the game is still active? A screenshot of the settings would help and mentioning which game we are talking about. But please into the correct FanaLab channel and not here.
For a test you can put NFR and NDP both to 100% and then quickly turn the wheel left and right. If you feel play its probably coming from the Quick Release. Then the tip of Maurice might help but it might also mean that you have a QR which is out of spec in which it would make sense to contact support, in case you have a QR which is not right, they could send you a replacement.
tried it and indeed there is play, thanks for the reply!
Also, point taken, will stop further posting here. Cheers!
after a few days of break I wanted to drive a bit but may whealbase is shuting down when I connect a wheel (xbox hub) or swites too wheel upgrade mode (podium hub or formula clubsport)
I did zero changes from time I used it last month
Which base are we talking about?
You are already using driver 447 since a while?
If it started to happen out of nowhere and not after a firmware update, then it's likely caused by the hardware and not the software.
it is dd1 base, I was using 446 and 447 for some time
I also did try to re flash firmware and that went ok but wheel base is still going into wheel upgrade mode on wheel connection
is there some logs from dirver?
Sounds like a hardware issue with either the WQR module or the wheel itself.
Morning,
DD1 with McLarenV2
i have updated from driver 429 to 447 (DD1 + McLarenFirmware) yesterday and wasnt satisfied.
Wanted to go back to 429, made it correctly over the new downgrade menu in firmware tab. So far so good, but after downgrade it seems, that the base (with the older firmware) wont recognize the McLarenWheel correctly with the new firmware.
It is recognized, but no button or shifter is working. I think downgrading wheel firmware isnt possible?
Why im not satisfied with 447?
The new firmare + driver feels different in ACC, seems like i have more road noise / details from track with the Fanatec settings i used with 429, i dont know how to describe, feels al little more grainy. This isnt sooo bad, but it has more tendency to oscillat on straights with the new firmware, that was not in driver 429 with the old firmware. As long as i put one hand on the wheel it wont osscilate, i know that you should never put away both hands, but that wasnt so in 429, is that explainable with the new driver 447/ firmware?
I tried more NDP up to 20 and more NFR, but it cant compensate the tendency for more oscillations.
These where my settings with driver 429.
Downgrading the steering wheel firmware is possibly by installling the older driver again and then flashing the steering wheel firmware manually.
What if you try a nigher INT of 5 for example and put FEI to 100? FEI can create oscillations because it adds latency, more than INT does.
Are you using the in-game dynamic dampening?
using compressed air to clean quick release did solved this problem for now
Hello from Greece,
I have a question about my newly bought clubsport v3 pedals . My problem is to make them usable together with my historic Fanatev Porsche GT3RS v2 Wheel . Both 447 and 443 tested and not working . Any ideas ?
Thanks a lot.
The last officially supported driver for the very old (but gold) Porsche 911 GT3 RS V2 Racing Wheel is driver 261 which you can find on its product page in the webshop (https://fanatec.com/eu-en/racing-wheels-wheel-bases/racing-wheels/porsche-911-gt3-rs-v2-wheel#downloads)
New drivers are not (officially) supported - which doesnt mean that they dont work, they actually CAN work but are untested. So you will need to try out some more drivers by yourself to find the most recent one which works with your historic gear.
Thank you very much for the answer .
So i am starting the test 😁
Never ever fanatec! Issues all the time.It's a waste of time and money....
You ware still here? You made the same statement back in June... 🤣
maybe there was a shortage created by a small flake of metal or something.
Do you have a recent issue you want to explain to us or are you just reacting to the feedback of others?
Bonjour, comment faire pour rétrograder un pilote ? Merci.
I, and many others, dont understand French so please post in English according to the forum rules.
How to downgrade a driver is described in the official Driver and firmware manual which is included with every download.
It is not recommended to do so if you dont have any serious issue. Also for Podium DD you MUST use the downgrade feature, implemented in 447, before downgrading to an older driver.
When will the new driver be released? v448? Will it solve the current problem of DD PRO
If all goes well later this year but no, it wont fix the Known issues of the CSL DD and GT DD PRO. That's something for next year.
Hello, sorry for the French, that's my problem.
I received my racing wheel f1 podium, a month ago, I played nickel. I wanted to update with driver 447, impossible to finalize, my fan runs at full speed and after a calibration request, I can no longer do anything and my pc does not detect any device.
I contacted support, they told me:
Reset my devices
Install driver 439
And normally everything works except that I'm always the same, the fan is always full and I still can't play. No device detects by my pc.
I attach the photos of the result obtained.
Si quelqu'un a des informations sur le sujet, je suis preneur , I am waiting for the response from support. Thank you.
I have an issue; I bought the Podium DD1 F1 back in November, i have updated to the latest available software, but when i drive in GT7, every 5-10 re-entries to the track, the FF changes to a higher value than what it was.
Im not at home atm but my FF is 45 on the wheel, with recommended fanatec settings ingame(5 and 1 if not mistaken), and the FF-strength is set to 80, and some other adjustments, but i dont think they cause this issue.
When im driving, the FF is fine, and no issues while driving. But when i go back in to the menus where you can change car etc. and re-enter the track, the FF settings will be 10-20% higher than what the original settings are. This is fixed with doing the same procedure by exiting out to the menus and back again, this was not an issue with my old DD Pro, so im curious if this is a software issue on fanatecs part or an issue that is caused by GT7.