How i fixed: Gran Turismo DD Pro Completely Unresponsive – No Power, No LED
Tommie Johansson
Member
Hi all,
I wanted to share a detailed guide for those experiencing an issue where their Gran Turismo DD Pro wheel base.
Problem Description
The wheel base is completely unresponsive:
LED Light: Does not turn on at all (no color).
The base is not detected by the PC.
---
Tools Needed
Hex key (size unknown) for removing screws.
Multimeter set to DC 20V mode to measure voltage.
A stable workspace for disassembly.
--
Steps for Troubleshooting
1. Prepare the Wheel Base:
Ensure the wheel base is unplugged and placed securely on a stable, flat surface.
Disconnect all cables (USB, power, and any steering wheel).
2. Remove the Back Cover:
Use the hex key to remove the screws holding the back cover.
Carefully lift off the back cover to expose the internal components.
3. Locate Key Components:
Refer to the provided images:
The ground point is marked on the right side of the circuit board.
Component IC801 (highlighted in the image) is related to power management.
4. Reconnect the Power Cable:
After removing the back cover, plug in the power cable only.
Make sure the multimeter is set to DC 20V.
5. Ground the Multimeter Probe:
Place the black (COM) probe securely on the ground point (as marked in the image).
Use the red (positive) probe to test the IC801 pins.
6. Test the Pins on IC801:
Carefully place the red probe on one pin at a time on the right side of the IC801 chip.
Since the pins are small, be precise. You might accidentally touch both pins—this could cause a spark or reset.
The exact pin or combination that caused the reset is unknown, so be cautious.
It is important to clarify that when I conducted the measurement, I likely touched both pins of the IC801 component with the multimeter probe. However, I cannot be entirely sure if this is the reason why the issue was resolved. The base may have been reset due to contact with both pins or even a static discharge.
7. Observe the LED Status:
If the LED turns on, verify its color:
Red for PC mode.
Blue for PlayStation mode.
8. Perform a Firmware Update (If Needed):
Once the wheel base powers on, connect the USB cable to the PC.
Open the firmware updater and follow the on-screen instructions to update the firmware.
9. Reassemble the Base:
After confirming that everything works, unplug the power.
Reattach the back cover and secure it with the screws.
---
Additional Notes:
The power issue may have been due to static discharge or a reset triggered by the multimeter probe.
If the base powers on after probing the pins, updating the firmware is recommended for stability.
Be very careful to avoid shorting the components when measuring near IC801.
---
This guide, combined with the reference images, should help others resolve similar issues. Let me know if further adjustments are needed!
Comments
ow, that screw is connected to the metal case? man that may cause some probems
Thank you for your input! The screw I used is indeed connected to the metal case, but it also serves as a grounding point on the PCB, which is quite common in electronics for reference measurements. I made sure to measure carefully without touching any other components. However, I agree that if the ground is improperly connected or isolated in certain designs, it could potentially cause issues.
In this case, though, the base started working again after I probed the IC legs. It’s possible that the IC was reset due to a brief connection between the pins, but it's hard to confirm if that was the exact reason.
I’d love to hear your thoughts—could grounding at that point still pose a risk if handled properly?
most common scenario where that grounding may cause problems is when user use some other devise in metal rig
when there is any kind voltage leak that's where problems start
Thanks for clarifying! That makes sense, especially if the rig has multiple devices connected to a common ground, which could introduce interference or ground loops. In my case, the base was completely isolated when I performed the measurement—no other devices were connected to the rig or power during the process.
Do you think this precaution minimizes the risk, or is there still something I should watch out for?
what i not get tho, how you was able make it work after measure, bad soldering ?
That's a valid question! I’m not entirely sure myself, but my guess is that I may have accidentally touched both pins at the same time, which could have reset something internally—like a capacitor discharging or maybe even a bad solder joint making proper contact again. The base has been working perfectly ever since, though! I also updated the firmware right after to ensure everything was stable. It's definitely a strange issue.
Hi everyone,
After getting the base to power on, I noticed that the LED changes color when I shake the unit, even without the steering wheel attached. This makes me suspect a cold solder joint, likely around IC801.
I plan to re-solder the pins to see if that resolves the issue and will update the thread once it’s done.
Warning: I recommend waiting for my update before attempting this yourself, as re-soldering can be tricky and may not be the exact solution. I’ll let you know how it goes!
Update: Issue Resolved - Power Connector Cold Solder Joint
After further inspection and testing, I discovered the root cause of the issue: the power connector (marked in red in the attached image) had a cold solder joint. I carefully resoldered the connection, and the base is now functioning perfectly.
If anyone encounters similar blinking or inconsistent behavior, I recommend checking the solder points around the power connector.
Thanks again for the support, and I hope this helps anyone facing a similar problem!